RAY DAVID DYKEMAN1932-1996I first met Dave Dykeman after being invited to join a group of friends who were climbing Tehipite Dome in the High Sierra over the Fourth of July weekend of 1983. That was a very heavy snow year, and I was astounded by h...
STRANDED–BENIGHTED, EXPOSURE–INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, LATE STARTCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Royal ArchesMy son Sascha (21) and I (54) climbed the Royal Arches (5.7) route in Yosemite Valley on April 10. The weather forec...
Success on KangchenjungaEDITORIALTHE ascent of Kangchenjunga last year by the party led by Charles Evans deserves a good deal more acclaim than seems to have been accorded it. In several respects it was a greater mountaineering achievement than th...
Traverse along Alaskan-British Columbian Border from the Stikine to the Samotua. On May 7, fingers were crossed that Craig Hollinger and our ski-plane pilot, Ron Janzen of TelAir, would complete the food placements and meet Markus Kellerhals, Stev...
Mount Stuart, East Face. Even more jagged, glaciated and spectacular than the famous north face of Mount Stuart is the cirque of the Ice Cliff Glacier and its headwalls on the east and northeast face of the peak. The entire glacier has been climbe...
Northern Selkirks. The Harvard Mountaineering Club 1957 Camp was held during the first three weeks of August in the Edfalls, Adamant, and Sir Sandford groups in the northern Selkirks. Access was by way of Swan Creek. With the assistance of airdrop...
IN the decade since Al DeMaria’s pioneering visit to Alaska’s Cathedral Spires, the range has gained a reputation for towering granite peaks, claustrophobic glaciers, and abominable weather. Until 975, the relatively small number of people who d...
In the Land of the InuitNew routes and perceptions in Sam Ford Fjordby Mark SynnottFor the past eight hours I had been tinkering with a thin cal- cite seam, using hooks, copperheads and rivets to create passage to the next real crack. The equivale...
Kjerag, Strandhogg and Pin-up. On February 12 and 14,I climbed two new ice lines on Kjerag in southwest Norway. Kjerag is close to 1,000m high and rises directly from the Lysefjord. It is Norway’s number one big wall, for rock climbers and BASE ju...
1951-85USA1959-85CAN.1986USA1986CAN.TerrainRock 222828115015Snow 13692323811Ice 1034355River 12300Unknown 16620Ascent or DescentAscent 192528615421Descent 13791994710Unknown 2274110Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock 13991381179Slip on snow o...
Tien Shan Mountains, mapping expedition. In August and September, 13 of us, mostly students from Dresden University of Technology, conducted a mapping expedition to the central Tien Shan Mountains. The objective of this university project (the Ins...
Ascent of Mt. Robson. There have been numerous attempts on Mt. Robson since its last ascent in 1939. The difficulties range from the enormous bulk of the 12,972-foot mountain to the ever changing conditions of the upper ice cap. When this party be...
Kilimanjaro: The White Roof of Africa. Harald Lange. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 176 pages, 63 pages of color photographs, black and white drawings, photographs and maps, bibliography. $24.95.This book is a major addition to the English-langu...
Yale Mountaineering Club. During the academic year 1951-52 the Yale Mountaineering Club continued its program of rock climbing instruction at Mt. Carmel and the Shawangunks, and snow and ice climbing trips were made to the White Mountains and Adir...
The Sherpa and the Snowman, by Chas. Stonor, with a foreword by Sir John Hunt. 206 pages, 38 pictures. Hollis & Carter: London, 1955. Price, 18 s.To those serious students of the Himalayan mystery this book may not contain much that is new. Ma...
Arwa Spires, first ascents of north face and the central and west summits. The 6,193m-high granite top of the Arwa Spires was first climbed in 2000 by two Scotsmen, Andy and Pete Benson. They reached the East Summit via the east ridge, but three a...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATED, PROBABLE THOUGHT PROCESS IMPAIRMENTWyoming, Tetons, Grand TetonOn September 16 at 1100, Russ Soderlund (40) was climbing the Owen-Spalding route on the Grand Teton with a friend, Gretchen Rupp. Sode...
On Some of Gertrude Bell’s Routes in the OberlandMiriam E. O’BrienIN 1901 and 1902 Miss Gertrude Bell and her guides, Heinrich and Ulrich Fuhrer, made a great many remarkable climbs in the Oberland. They were, of course, much more remarkable at th...
Dariyo Sar, first ascent; Pt. 6,250m, first ascent. Unreported from 2005 are the first ascents of two peaks on the Baltar Glacier. After an unsuccessful attempt to reach the northwest spur of Rakaposhi as part of a larger Italian expedition, Renzo...
Mount Moran, 1922-1962Leigh N. OrtenburgerWith sections written by James P. McCarthy, Pete Sinclair, John Hudson, Don Anderson, Fred Beckey and Ted VaillIn the forty years which have now passed since the first ascent of Mount Moran, judged by Fryx...