FALL ON SNOW, LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount YpsilonOn August 26, Larisa J. Watson (23) and three partners partially ascended the Blitzen Ridge route on Mount Ypsilon when they noticed...
Gangchen. An eight-man Japanese expedition led by Tohru Shibazaki made the first ascent of Gangchen (21,200 feet). Base Camp was set up on June 24 at 14,375 feet on the Hoh-Lungma Glacier, west of the peak. Camp I at 15,900 feet was placed on June...
Makalu, West Face, Ascent and Tragedy. A team of climbers from Ekaterinburg, Russia, led by Sergei Efimov, made an ascent of Makalu’s west face in the pre-monsoon season. Their ascent followed the right-hand ice faces to the great headwall, then j...
Geikie, West Ridge. In early August A1 DeMaria, John Hudson and I went to the Ramparts to try the first ascent of the west ridge of Geikie. Glad to escape the throngs of mosquitos and climbers at Moat Lake, we walked down Tonquin Valley and then c...
Bear Creek Spire, P 13,600 and Ruby Lake Wall. In December of 1985, Kevin Ball and I made the first winter ascent of the east ridge of Bear Creek Spire, finding it much as Galen Rowell had described it: long and enjoyable. In February of 1987, I r...
The Chopper. After seven known attempts and seven known falls, this severe one-pitch climb behind Camp 4 was finally solved by Mead Hargis with me following. The summit of this climb is a moderate fifth-class move. NCCS I, F10.Rick Sylvester
“The Turret,” Broken Down Palace. In early March, Scott Adamson and I headed into the Ruth Gorge for nine days to escape the world. We found extreme temperatures, lots of wind, and typical Alaska Range winter conditions. After eyeballing a new rou...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, AdirondacksOn July 3, 1983, Lee Fowler (32) and Andrew Metz (22) were killed when they fell about 90 meters from Wallface in the Adirondacks.Fowler was six to eight meters above Metz, with no protection...
Italian Hindu Kush Expedition. A scientific expedition led by Prof. Ardito Desio visited the Hindu Kush from the Afghan side. Two members climbed an unnamed peak of 16,437 feet in the Koh-i-Baba range and another of more than 13,000 feet in the Ko...
Mt. Murchison (S. E. Tower, 10,659 ft.). 1940 first ascent by H. S. Hall, Jr., E. Feus, Jr. From camp used by Cromwell-Engel- hard party (see Guidebook), by way of the glacier between the objective and the N. Tower. Ascent 5.5 h.; intervening sadd...
French Expedition to Staunings Alps, East Greenland, 1968. An expedition from the Aix-les-Bains section of the French Alpine Club made a number of difficult ascents during August of 1968. These are listed in La Montagne of December, 1968 on page 377.
Yamnuska, South Face and Mount Temple, North Face. Bojan Pograjc, Nejc Škov and I climbed in the Canadian Rockies from June 25 to August 4. We made two possibly new routes. The first was on the south face of Yamnuska, a 400-meter high rock face ne...
California, Inyo National Forest, Shadow Lake Area. On 24 August a party from “Outward Bound” from Pasadena left Agnew Meadow (8,600 ft.) and camped at a small lake (8,200 ft.) about two miles from the end of the road. A 17-year-old member of the ...
Pumari Chhish. Our expedition was composed of Susumu Ogasawara, Hideo Yokoyama, Yoshimasa Chiba, Katsutoshi Kariya, Kenji Hirooka, Koichi Minami, Michio Hayashi, Michihiro Kanno, Mitsuo Shiroishi, Masaki Ohashi, Shigeki Chiba and me as leader. We ...
K2 Attempt and Broad Peak. Our expedition arrived at Base Camp on June 2. From June 13 until July 20 we spent most of the five weeks in uninterrupted bad weather. We could not climb higher than Camp II at 22,650 feet on the Abruzzi spur. Continuou...
Mount Logan. After a seven-day wait at Glennallen, Alaska, Dick Beach and Rich Gnagy were flown onto the glacier to start our climb of Mount Logan by the standard King Trench route; Bill Feldman, Alex McDermott and I waited another nine days at Ma...
Bugaboo Spire. S. W. summit only. August 20, 1938. S. Austin, R. Brinton, G. Dawson, M. Dawson, H. Fuller. Weather and snow conditions prevented attainment of highest point.
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn July 24,1987, a party of three attempted to climb and descend the Wishbone Arete in one day. They were attempting a lightweight climb, carrying no stove or sl...
Lhotse Shar, Southwest Face. Our expedition, originally planned for 1983, managed to make a new route on Lhotse Shar, the southwest face. We were Dr. Leoš Chládek, Emil Fornay, František Dostál, Peter Božik, Zoltán Demján, Zdizlav Drlík, Róbert Gá...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. This was a somewhat unusual year for the section in that there were two “Annual Banquets.’’ The first one, in February, presented two speakers. Gary Rose showed slides of recent climbs in the Bella Coola Mountains of Briti...