VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE BELAYS, ETC.Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkDuring 1994, seven climbing accidents were reported from this area. All involved falling from various heights, and one of them resulted in a fatality...
Nanda Kot, South Face. A guided British expedition made the first ascent of the south face, approaching from the Pindari Glacier. The summit (6861 meters) was reached on October 2 by Richard Baskerville, Martin Moran, Andrew Nisbet, Jonathan Prest...
Women on High: Pioneers of Mountaineering. Rebecca A. Brown. Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club Books, 2002. Foreword by Arlene Blum. 272 pages. Hardcover $22.95.Rebecca A. Brown has given us a highly readable history of women’s mountaineering. Wom...
Warbonnet, North Face. On September 22 Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I climbed the north face of Warbonnet for the first time. From the southeast notch we traversed around the east face on ledges until they ended on a major ridge. We then climbed a...
Alpenbock Climbing Club. Our club, consisting of 25 members in Salt Lake City, had an active year in 1966. Ski mountaineering occupied most of the winter months in the Wasatch Range, while a few of the more hardened types did some winter rock clim...
STRANDED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, HASTE, WEATHER Oregon, Mount HoodOn Friday, May 31, I arrived at Timberline Lodge at 2330 with the intent of climbing Mount Hood via the Sandy Glacier Headwall, a moderate snow and ice...
A Bolivian Couloir and Other ClimbsStanley S. ShepardOf my climbs in Bolivia in 1967, 1968, and 1969, three merit an account. These three, although thoroughly modern in their technical requirements, recalled the days of Tyndall and Stephen, when m...
Everest, north face new route, personal commentary on history and style. The expedition to Everest by the North Face was planned immediately after our ascent of Lhotse Middle in 2001 [feature article in AAJ 2002]. This plan was collective, and mos...
The Shafat FortressAvoiding conflicts with a new route in Kashmir.JONNY CoppOver 500,000 troops are stationed along India’s border with Pakistan in the disputed region known as Kashmir. Micah Dash and I traveled there to find an unclimbed mountain...
Mount McKinley—Icy Crown of North America, Fred Beckey. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. 319 pages, black and white and color photos. $29.95. In the Shadow of Denali, Life and Death on Alaska’s Mt. McKinley, Jonathan Waterman. Bantam Doubleday Del...
P 12,860, Cyclorama Wall. This obscure summit, located in the middle of a netherworld between the Palisades and Leconte Canyon, is a mile-wide, 1000-foot, vertical wall every bit as impressive as the Diamond on Longs Peak. To reach it, one must cr...
Encyclopedia Britannica, 14th Edition, 1929.The following notes make record primarily of topographical errors and discrepancies found in certain topic headings dealing with the mountains of North America. In general, a lack, of editorial uniformit...
The Shark's FinAfter beating back dozens of the world’s best climbers, Meru’s central peak finally succumbed to an unrelenting soloist. Indian Garhwal.Valeri BabanovAs far as I knew there had been about 15 attempts on India’s Meru Central, otherwi...
Logan Mountains. Ted Maden, Nona Okun and I landed at the upper end of Lonely Lake in Hole-in-the-Wall valley on July 16 and set up Base Camp about half a mile further west by a river. Two days later we all climbed the twin “Reconnaissance Peaks” ...
Sha Mo Karpo Ri (Mt. White Cap), first ascent. In September and October I returned to the Nyanchen Tanglha Range, situated about 80km north of Lhasa. It was my third visit to this region, so we celebrated the return heartily with the local inhabit...
People say that Annapurna is dangerous from the north, dangerous and difficult from the northwest, and steep, dangerous, and difficult from the south. My first experience with Annapurna was in the autumn of 2008, when I tried to climb the northwes...
K2, Ascent and Tragedy. A seven-member Spanish expedition led by Jose Garces attempted K2 by the south-southeast spur. The account of their successful and subsequently tragic expedition as told to Xavier Eguskitza appears earlier in this journal.
Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Castle Rock. On July 6 Robert Sayre (49) and two young companions were attempting a route called Cussin’ Crack (a fifth class deceptive dihedral with smooth walls) on a warm, sunny, windless day. Sayre led up the crack an...
The Rock Anchor (Bolt) Set. Increasing numbers of rock climbers, with and without a fancy for technical undertakings, have begun to add the rock anchor set to their supplies of hardware.2 The equipment was originally developed for purposes of dire...
The Sergeant, Purcells. The icefalls into the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers are so spectacular and challenging that no one had touched them. Blessed by favorable weather, Arnold Wexler, Morgan Broman and I went up the most easterly of these icefall...