Yerupajá Chico, West Ridge Attempt. The Auckland University Andean Expedition was made up of Barry Barton, Doug Brasell, Graham Langton, Tony and Tess Parlane, Roscoe Tait, David Tapp and me as leader. We established Base Camp on May 29 at the hea...
Mount Everest from the North. The Chinese propaganda magazine, China Reconstructs, of August, 1960 states that on May 25 the Chinese Wang Fu-chou and Chu Yin-hua and the Tibetan Gonpa reached the summit of "Mount Jolmo Lungma, the world’s highest ...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgesOn May 9, two climbers were going up Standard on Cathedral when the leader fell from Cave Wall about 1700. He suffered a concussion and felt lower back pain. The New Hampshire Mountain Rescue...
Gongga Shan— Minya Konka RevisitedDouglas Kelley and Joseph E. MurphyON OCTOBER 3, 1982 Dana Coffield and Douglas Kelley reached the summit of Gongga Shan, a 24,891-foot peak in western Sichuan province of the People’s Republic of China. Fifty yea...
Annapurna IV Attempt. Our members were John McMenamin, Heather McComb, Ruth Gemperlein, Jim Tweedie, Base Camp Manager Pat Ballard and I as leader. Bad weather and deep snow severely hampered our efforts. Upon arriving on March 30 at Yak Kharak in...
Kara-su valley, Kotina, northwest face, Czarna Wolga. There are many problems to overcome if you go to the Karavshin. It’s possible to hire an agent to prepare everything, but we couldn’t, as we didn’t have the money. Nevertheless, at the beginnin...
Makalu, by Jean Franco. Translated from the French by Denise Morin.London: Jonathan Cape, 1957. 256 pages; ills.; maps. Price 25s.The ascent of Makalu in 1955, as with all the 8000-meter peaks, was a superb achievement accomplished by a group of h...
FALL ON SNOW, DESCENDING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alaska, Mount McKinleyAt approximately mid day on May 20, 1992, Soo Yang Yung (29), Sung Tak Hong (26) and Seong Jong Jin (25) from Korea were killed while attempting to descend the Orient Expr...
Siguniang Region, Various Activity. In September, the American/Italian team of Craig and Silvia Luebben traveled to the Siguniang Mountains in China’s Sichuan Province hoping to climb new big wall routes. They established a camp in the Shuanqiao V...
On August 12th, my long time climbing partner (27) and I, Bud Miller (27), set off to climb the 1000-foot North Face of The Rostrum (8 pitches, IV 5.11c). The route was new to both of us and sure to push our limits, but it’s considered relative...
Winter Ascent of Gannett Peak, Wind River Range. What appears to be the first winter ascent of Gannett Peak (13,785 feet) was made last winter. Late on December 20, Patrick Caywood, Eliot Goss, Walter Gove, Albert Nickerson and Leif-Norman Patters...
Khumbu, Nagpai Gosum I, background on the encounter with Chinese soldiers. David Morton’s experience was the first incident of this kind ever to befall any mountaineers within Nepalese territory. On the other side of the border not far from the Na...
Nanga Parbat, Ski Attempt. In 1990, under the sponsorship of the Deutsches Institut für Auslandsforschung, Josef and Marianne Walter reached the Diamir Col on skis but were unable to continue because of snow conditions. (AAJ, 1991, pp. 276-7.) The...
Bear Mountain’s Forgotten FaceAlan J. KearneyFIVE MILES south of the Canadian border in the North Cascade Mountains rises one of the largest rock walls in the Pacific Northwest. Though Bear Mountain appears as a minor peak on the map, its seldom v...
Saf Minal (6,911m), northwest face. John Varco (U.S.) and I (UK) made the first ascent of the northwest face of Saf Minal (6,911m) in the Indian Garhwal reaching the summit on October 5. Unlike its sister peaks Kalanka and Changabang with their 1,...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The past year was an unfortunate blend of success and tragedy for the MCA. On the first day of 1974 an avalanche in the Chugach Range took the life of Mark Rainery, Huts and Cabins Chairman of the club, who had made ...
1951–081959–0420092009USACANUSACAN.TerrainRock453052877Snow236735541Ice270158River1530Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent358958779Descent102337145Unknown250131OtherNB702Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock358929059Slip on snow or ice102320727Fallin...
Tamadonog, Doomed to Miyar; Geruda Peak, first ascent. The Tharanga, the local population of the lower Miyar Valley, are mainly shepherds and farmers. They gladly help expeditions visiting their valley and were of great assistance to our second Po...
GeographicalDistricts1951–19911992Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta276816149417British Columbia234905225215Yukon Territory292563209Ontario27650000Quebec21549104East Arctic722000...
FRANCIS ADAMS TRUSLOW1906-1951Francis Adams Truslow, our member since 1938, died suddenly of a heart attack last July. He was on his way to Rio de Janeiro with his family as U.S. Commissioner on the United States-Brazil Joint Commission for Econom...