After a comparatively benign passage from Scotland to Greenland in my 10m sailing boat, Dodo’s Delight, we made a long motor up the west coast. Either there was no wind, or the wind was against us. Eventually, we arrived at the Sortehul Fjord, c...
From June 20 to July 23, Tomas Brt (Czech), Jan Smolen, and I (both Slovak) visited Tasermiut Fjord and enjoyed largely excellent weather, so different from my first visit in 1998, when I experienced only a few days of sunshine. ...
The Polish Mountaineering Association sent a three-man team to Greenland specifically to repeat the 2007 Kaszlikowski-Kubarska route, Golden Lunacy, on the huge sea cliff of Maujit Qoqarsassia (AAJ 2008). Although the team did not follow the or...
On October 5, John Frieh and I met in Seattle and flew to Petersburg, where we spent part of the day hanging out with Dieter Klose before being flown onto the Stikine Icecap by Wally, our Temsco Helicopters pilot. Wally landed us at the Burkett ...
The great complex of ranges forming the North American cordillera, which for upwards of fifteen hundred miles has maintained a northwesterly trend, on entering Alaska makes an abrupt bend to the west and then to the southwest, as if to meet th...
The 41-year old Japanese mountaineer Katsuhito Fujikawa made the first ascent of Shey Shikhar (6,139m), an elegant peak in the Dolpo region immediately southeast of the Kanjiroba Group. In 1995 American Geoff Tabin was offered a permit for Shey ...
1990 was another active year for our club. Membership grew significantly, increasing 15% over 1989 to 71. The majority lives in Memphis, although 20 members live in 13 states ranging from California and Washington to Florida and New Jersey. Desp...
AAC, New York Section. The New York Section, with membership now exceeding 700 in the Tri-State Area, tries to appeal to a broad cross section of members with a variety of outdoor climbing and indoor social events.Activities invariably commence in...
The major event of 1992 was a meeting at Mammoth Lakes on April 25 featuring a slide show by Don Lauria on his second ascent of the North American Wall on El Capitan in 1968 with Dennis Hennek. More than 80 members and guests, including Eastern...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ROPES KNOT “UNRAVELED”Wyoming, Grand Teton, Guide’s WallOn September 13, Karen Turk (32) Matt Goewert (33), and Carrie Dagher were descending Guide’s Wall when this incident occurred. Goewert and Dagher stated that the party o...
Logan Mountains Andrew Embick SNOWFLAKES drifted slowly upward, shimmeringly evanescent in the sun. Lines of clouds, some dark and ominous, had marched toward us all day, but many had turned away before enveloping us, and the occasional...
On September 19 in the Three Sisters Wilderness area, Bonnie Lamb (39) was ascending a volcanic talus and scree ridge on Broken Top when she came to a short, steep section of surface-softened hard-snow near the 9,175 south summit. She slipped and ...
Everest, north side, Second Step free climb. On June 14 at 6:15 a.m. Leo Houlding and I free- climbed the Second Step on the North East Ridge of Chomolungma. Prior to the ascent a team of four high-altitude Sherpas led by Phurba Tashi Sherpa of Kh...
Mount St. Elias. On June 19, 1958 Leo Slaggie, David Toland, Ritner Walling, and Raymond D’Arcy were landed by Yakutat pilot Don Vent near Point Manby, by the west shore of Yakutat Bay, to march eighty miles to attempt a new route on Mount St. Eli...
Amin Brakk, West Face, Attempt*. The expedition was composed of Jose Carlos Tamayo, Adolfo Madinabeita and Jon Lazkano. We established Base Camp at 4200 meters on May 15 at a site called “Bila Congo” by the locals. We wanted to attempt the 1400-me...
Various Ascents. In the ranges inland and east of the towns of Rancagua and San Fernando, the following activity is worth recording: Nevado del Granito (4400 meters, 14,436 feet), first ascent by F. Arias and E. Rodríquez; Alto del Coton Norte (42...
“The Fox Jaw,” Molar Tooth, Lovin’All the Right Places. In mid to late summer, Mike Libecki and I flew via Iceland to Kulusik Island and the full-service village of Tasiilaq before getting helicoptered into the Schweizerland mountains of east Gree...
SLIP—RIVER CROSSING, POOR POSITION, MISCOMMUNICATIONBaffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park, Mount ThorOn July 10, 1984, a climbing group from Japan was returning to Pangnirtung after an ascent of the West Face of Mount Thor on Baffin Island. Their...
ALTHOUGH the goddess Nanda* (Devi means “goddess”) does not appear in the ancient sacred Hindu texts, that does not mean that she, a consort of Siva, is not one of the important, if not the most important, of the Hindu deities in Garhwal. She pe...
KNEE INJURY, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 30, the two members of the Sled Dog expedition, Matt Sachs (34) and June Braugham (40) were evacuated from the 14,200-foot camp on Denali. On the 29th, Sachs sustained a knee inj...