Appalachian Mountains: (1) Mt. Katahdin. On 4 July 1948 Albertine Parker (about 25), a member of a large party, fell while she was trying to pass the first (lowest) chockstone in the Chimney route on Mt. Katahdin. She sustained a badly fractured l...
Wind River Range. A number of first ascents were made in this range by several parties during the past summer.Washakie Peak was climbed, apparently for the first time, on July 18th by Dr. W. Atwood, W. Atwood, Jr., Mr. and Mrs. B. B. Gilman, direc...
Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca. A number of excellent ascents were made in 1986 in the Cordillera Blanca. The Italian pair Paola Gigliotti and Massimo Marchini climbed San Juan from the Quebrada Cayesh on June 1 and Milpocraju via a vari...
Pingora, South Face Direct, Cirque of the Towers. On August 7 Rich Mathies and I began on the grassy ledges running across the south face below the rope-up point of the standard route. (We could have started at the bottom of the wall as the crack ...
Yutmaru Sar. This peak lies west of Kanjut Sar north of the Hispar Glacier. Our party consisted of Yu Watanabe, Shoji Ebara, Masahiro Motegi, Dr. Ryoko Kato and me as leader. Having approached from Nagar, we established Base Camp on the Yutmaru Gl...
The Story of Mountains, by Ferdinand C. Lane. 488 pages, with tables and index; 32 full-page illustrations from photographs and a panoramic end-paper. Garden City, N. Y.: Doubleday and Co., 1950. Price, $6.50.This is one of a series of books on gl...
Licancabur and Llullaillaco. On December 31, 1987, Americans Chuck Huss, Bill Koener, Gordie Vernon and I and Chileans Gastón Oyarzún and Peter Schlotterbeck climbed Licancabur (5921 meters, 19,424 feet) by the east ridge, a long trudge on loose s...
FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE PROTECTION (CLIMBER AND BELAYER), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Church Bowl, Bishops TerraceAfter work on July 28, Ric Sedlak (20) and I, Amy Painter (21), headed for the Church Bowl to climb Bishops Terrace (one ...
Roscoe Bjerg, Scoresby Land. A flight to the Staunings Alps takes one over the Liverpool Coast, a forbidding angular coastal belt of mountains that runs northwards from Scoresby Sund (70° 30' N) for about 60 miles. Because the peaks are low (maxim...
Colorado: Snowmass Peak (14,077 ft.). On 26 August 1949 Arthur Gallager (21), a Yale student from Colorado Springs, slid to his death in a rock slide. Eye-witnesses said that he slipped from a ledge while he was descending from a summit of the pea...
Foraker, Pink Panther Route. Dave Harries and Chris Smith repeated the difficult Pink Panther route on Mount Foraker during the spring.Scott Gill
California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. McAdie. On 15 June Anita Ossofsky (27), Seymour Ossofsky, and Barbara Lilley were ascending Mt. McAdie from Arc Pass. They traversed from the East face of Middle Peak to Gulley which divides Middle and North Peaks. A...
Lobuje East. Our French and Swiss expedition was composed of Denise Hembise, Samyr Lazizi, Bernard Nief, Franco¸is Ryter, Serge Chartoise and me. After an approach of 12 days, we placed Base Camp beside a lake at 5000 meters below the southeast ri...
Nevado Quitaraju, south face, clarification. The Bullock-Powell Route (AAJ 2002, p. 295-6) begins to the right of the Slovenian Route, but after continuing near that line for several pitches, diverges left to attain the arête very close to the sum...
Annapurna III Attempt and Tragedy. An Italian expedition led by Maurizio Maggi was called off immediately after the death of Massimo Caslino, who was struck by a falling sérac on September 26. He fell about 350 meters and his body was found the ne...
Noshaq. Our American Hindu Kush Expedition arrived at Base Camp at the foot of the west ridge of Noshaq on August 3. Kharposht-e-Yakhi (18,688 feet) was climbed on August 7 by D. and A. George, Arlene Blum, Joel Bown, S. Darling, and Leslie (Toby)...
Black Dike of Mt. Moran, August 20, 1949. This unique route, followed by Dick Pownall and Dave Van de Water, goes up the face of the diabase dike so prominent from Jackson Hole. In the upper sections both loose rock and difficult climbing were enc...
Peak 6250, Ascent, and Namlo Karpo, Attempt. New Zealanders Peter Cammell, John Cocks, Cam Falkner, Martin Hunter, John Nankervis and Adrian van Schie spent five weeks in the Kongpo region of eastern Tibet in the autumn. Accompanied by Tibetan mou...
Nun Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition had as members Jed Meyer, William Ogbum, Mike Seavers and me as leader. Our original aim was to climb the difficult east ridge of Nun from Base Camp on the Shaffat Glacier and then to traverse the mountain b...
Iowa Mountaineers. During the past year many of our 400 members climbed in numerous mountain ranges of the world. The weekend climbing outings continued as in the past with 15 to 40 members on the rocks almost every Saturday and Sunday. Fourteen c...