Sugarloaf Dome, Kings Canyon Area. The unsuspected number of granite domes on the west side of the Sierra Nevada is surprising. Alan Roberts and I found a very picturesque dome of the exfoliating type on the high benchland north of Kings Canyon in...
Lone Pine Peak, Windhorse. In August, Em Holland and I established a new route on the South Face of Lone Pine Peak. Windhorse (V 5.10 A3) ascends the huge, left-facing crescent dihedral several hundred feet west of the Direct South Face route. Aft...
Akher Chioh and Kotgaz Zom. The members of the Graz section of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.) expedition were Hanns Schell, his wife Liselotte and Rainer Göschl. They traveled overland from Austria to Pakistan past Peshawar to Dir. Thence they ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT Connecticut, Ragged Mountain, ValhallaThere was a fatal accident on September 16 at the “Small Cliff” at Ragged Mountain in Connecticut. Following is the account of what I believe happened. At 1910,...
Peak 13,198, Ruby Wall. The east face of this peak is a vertical, 900-foot wall that is reflected in the waters of Ruby Lake, near the Mono Pass trail. On July 10, Mike White and I approached the face entirely on snow for the last 1500 feet, due t...
HAND-HOLD CAME LOOSE, FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn January 26, Katherine Davis (31) was climbing on Supplication (5.10). She was leading a 5.8 approach to set a belay at a ledge when the rock handhold she was hol...
Mount Logan on Skis. Arno Dennig, Gerwalt Pichler, Bruno Kraker and Hanns Schell of Austria, Karl Hub of Germany, and Hugo Dietrich and I of Alaska left Glenallen on May 4 for the Logan Glacier with Jack Wilson’s Air Service. By the 5th we were at...
Flat Top Peak, approximately 10,000 ft. First ascent, August 11. E. Cromwell, P. Kaufmann. From col, followed east ridge to summit. Ascent, 1 hour. Descent, via west ridge to glacier and camp, 2 hours.O. E. Cromwell.
Illimani Sur. A new route was made in 1977 to the south summit of Illimani to the left (north) of the normal west ridge route. This was guided by José Eloriaga, a Spaniard living in La Paz. His client was the German Dr. Manfred Abelein. They took ...
Cordillera Real, Overview. In the Cordillera Real, snow consolidated on the normal routes to give perfect conditions for most of the season. The normal route on Huayna Potosi was regularly climbed by guided parties in four hours from high camp and...
Mount McKinley Tragedy and Resulting Expedition. Two expeditions, the Colorado Mount McKinley and the Wilcox McKinley expeditions, joined to climb the Karsten’s Ridge route. Seven members of the latter died high on the mountain. On July 18 Jerry C...
Peaks in Ladakh and Kashmir. During July Geoff Cohen and I enjoyed a 10-day walk through the remote Wadvan valley. (The Wadvan flows into the Chenab near Kishtwar. Leaving the roadhead at Gaoran, we crossed the Margan Pass over to the Wadvan. Thre...
Hallett Peak. A new route was done this summer on the second buttress of Hallett Peak by Tex Bossier and me. The route began to the left of the Jackson-Johnson route and continued directly up the smooth northeast corner of the buttress. Difficult ...
Aconcagua, South Face, Messner Route. Mike French, Englishman Hugh Grandfield and I set our Base Camp at the Plaza Francia on February 19. After ten days of acclimatizing, we started up the route, hoping to make the second ascent of it and the fir...
El Gran Trono Blanco, The Millennium. May brought the completion of the first new major route on El Gran Trono Blanco in a decade (see AAJ 1991, pp. 189-190). Several years in the planning and “construction,” The Millennium (El Milenio, IV 5.11b o...
Makalu. Japanese climbed Makalu from the north with four high camps. The route was more direct to the northwest ridge than the standard route. On September 30 leader Kazuo Yuda, Makoto Ishibashi and Dr. Yukihiro Michi- kawa climbed to the summit w...
In February Joe French, Zach Lee, and Caleb Padgett found, equipped, and freed a fantastic crack system on the south face of Kinesava. The route is the farthest left of the established routes (left of Arrakis), and a few bolts in a slightly over...
Buni Zom, North Peak. An Austrian expedition from Graz consisted of Dr. Gerald Gruber, leader, and his wife Hildegund, Dr. Herfried Gamerith and his wife Gertraud, Hanns Schell and Dr. Norbert Zernig. On August 10 G. Gruber, H. Gamerith and Schell...
Mount Nystrom, East Peak, South Face and Southeast Buttress. In September 1981 Tenny Canon, Gleed Toombs and I made a new climb in the impressive Nystrom cirque, near Sweetwater Gap. We climbed the south face, a fine route on cracks and steep slab...
Jogin Group. The first and second ascents of Jogin I (21,210 feet) were made on June 22 in two parties by eleven trainees and staff of the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi, under the leadership of Lieutenant Colonel J. C. Joshi. They ...