Anyemaqen I and IV. Canadians C. Hrkac, H. Smit, J. Herrero, B. White, M. Ledwidge, B. Helgason, P. Holbek and I successfully completed an eight- week cultural and climbing visit to the People’s Republic of China. After visiting the Chengdu Colleg...
Cerro Murallón, attempt. The following has been condensed from a press release provided by Glowacz’s publicist in response to our request for information:“Gone with the Wind” Part 1, featuring Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper. Top of the Murallón ...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. Harry Lumby of our club, who is an accredited first-aid instructor, held classes in the early spring of 1955 for a small group of C.M.C. Mountaineers, teaching them the wonders of bruises, bandages, and broken bones. T...
Huascarán. On July 31 Andreas Brückner, Caspar Vogel, Mark Ebneter and I reached the summit of Huascarán Sur. Since last year, the route to the Garganta goes over a ramp directly below the south peak, climbing a steep ice wall to the right of rock...
Washington—Del Campo Mountain: A church group of young men, led by a very competent mountaineer, Kieth Rabkin of Seattle, were on a practice trip on Del Campo Mountain on May 31, 1952. During a glissade practice Morris Ensey (20) failed to maneuve...
STRANDED, DROPPED ROPECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 15, after completing a single pitch 5.7 route in the Church Bowl area called Uncle Fannie Hoffman, Matthew (19) lowered his partner to the ground from a ledge and accidentally dropped his...
In the summer of 1994 I climbed the Hobbs/Slate route on the north buttress of Mount Morrison with Don Lamson. From this route it is possible to view the central pillar, which appeared to have more compact rock than the choss we were climbing. A w...
Peaks East of Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. Ours was the first expedition to the Andes from Poznan. It was both scientific and mountaineering. We made biological, geological, ethnological and meteorological studies during our seven months in the...
Teng Kang Poche, pre-monsoon attempts. Taking advantage of the recent addition to the permitted list of peaks of this splendid 6,500m mountain on the ridge west of Kwangde, the French Alpine Club chose Teng Kang Poche as the venue for an expeditio...
K2 Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Bernd Arnold, Roland Mattie, Thomas Mügge, Steffen Otto, Dr. Walter Treibel, Thomas Türpe, and me as leader. We attempted the Abruzzi Ridge after arriving at Base Camp on May 23. The weather was bad in th...
Kohe Urgunt. A Polish expedition of the Klub Przewodnikow Gor- skich PTTK-Krakow climbed a new route, the east glacier and north ridge of Kohe Urgunt (23,091 feet). On August 22 the leader Ryszard Koziol, Alicja Bednarz, W. Kapturkiewicz and A. Tr...
On August 1, while ascending Pingora Peak, Kelsey Dayton pulled a large rock off while following Joe Kelsey up a 4th-class chimney The rock grazed her helmeted head then broke her left humerus.AnalysisMid-altitude mountaineering in this location h...
Gladsheim Peak, Valhalla Group, Southwest Face, Selkirks. On September 10, Craig Martinson and I climbed a new route west of the three existing ones on the south and southwest faces of Gladsheim, highest of the Valhalla peaks. The first roped pitc...
Nevado Churup, Southwest Side. On July 23, 1994, after 20 hours of constant climbing, Spaniards Enrique Ortuno and Rolando Gine inaugurated a new route on the southwest face of Churup (5493 meters). This face had the Fear-Lahr-Malatoux-Ridgeway ro...
Grand Paradis, by Samivel. 94 pages, with 84 black and white photo illustrations, and 12 full pages in color from films by R.-P. Bille. Paris: Hachette, 1958.Samivel, even in a book which contains none of his drawings, can be counted on for a good...
Mount McAdie, Northeast Face. Mike Daughtery, Jeff Lee and I climbed this face in July. A large bowl is evident from Consultation Lake. Enter a recess below this bowl by traversing from the east (exposed fourth class). After entering the recess, c...
"Dragon Head”, East Face. One of the most impressive walls I have seen in the range is a triple-buttressed east face in the valley above Middle Fork and Noel lakes, which rises in a 1200-foot sheer sweep to an unnamed 12,140-foot summit. In keepin...
FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE PROTECTION ON RAPPEL, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Crowders MountainOn January 16, 1994, Timothy Samartino (21) fell about 90 feet from near the top of a rappel. He suffered scalp lacerations and a concussion. ( Source: Deidr...
Louis Kurz. The death of this distinguished Swiss topographer and mountaineer occurred in Neuchatel on March 12th, 1942, in his 89th year. We extend our sympathy to his son, M. Marcel Kurz, and other members of the family.
Mount Monarch, South Buttress. A week’s trip to Mount Monarch in August by Dennis Mullen and me resulted in a third route on this imposing mountain, the south buttress. We had some route-finding problems, some good rock, some bad. The deep gap at ...