Haizi Shan, second ascent. Piecing together the evidence, it appears that the late Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler made the second ascent of Haizi Shan on October 22. They appear to have walked into the peak, presumably from the north, and cl...

Peruvian Ascents. Peruvian climbers continued to make ascents. In the western volcanos Alfredo del Arroyo, Itaru Nishimura, Raoul Patrucco and Alberto Ruibal made the first winter ascent and perhaps the third ascent of Sarasara (19,029 feet) on Ja...

Early Winter Spires. A new route was established in August of 1964 on the South Spire westside by Larry Scott and Don Anderson, and follows the rib crest just left of the "route 1" couloir. Some pleasant scrambling was involved, along with some me...

Alpine Club of Canada, 1951. It had been hoped to hold the annual summer camp in the French Military Group (Kananaskis area) in 1951. Intensive reconnaissance failed to find any campsite that was sufficiently close to the main climbing and at the ...

This is the thirty-fifth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the sixth that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: This issue includes several accident reports fr...

Center Peak, approximately 9600 ft. First ascent, August 10. E. Cromwell, P. Kaufmann, C. Kain. From camp at head of Bugaboo glacier, to plateau of Bugaboo glacier, thence via moraine crest to foot of Snowpatch Spire. Crossed southwest arm of Buga...

RAPPEL FAILURE-MISPERCEPTION OF ANCHOR, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Selenium FallsOn December 12, a party of three had completed Selenium Falls, a water ice Grade 5 route. To descend, the climbers threaded their ropes through an exist...

Lorna Ream, 1930-2010In the fall of 1965, I was a restless 17-year old growing up in Spokane, Washington, and trying to find my place in a tribe of outdoor people known as the Spokane Mountaineers. They had a chalet halfway to the summit of nearby...

Attempt on Lunkho. P. V. Brian, D. B. Martin, R. A. P. Mellor, R. A. North and I as leader climbed in the Ab-i-Ishmurkh valley in the eastern Hindu Kush (36° 45' to 37° N, 71° 25' to 71° 35' E). We arrived in Kabul on July 12 hoping to visit the c...

Lamjung Himal, North Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Kozo Kashiwagi, Kenjiro Oka, Kikuo Kazusa, Yoshinori Ueno, Hisashi Sugihara, Satoshi Nishimura, Nakao Ito, Yuji Matsuda, Dr. Yasuhiko Iwasaki and me as leader. We set out from Dumle on Mar...

Summits: Climbing the Seven Summits Solo. Robert Anderson. Clarkson-Potter, New York, 1995. Color photography, 160 pages. $65.00.Robert Anderson’s book, Summits: Climbing the Seven Summits Solo, has much in common with his quest to do the same. Bo...

1951—801981Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta1044319126380British Columbia1295724311323Yukon Territory161931208Ontario10417306Quebec10225000East Arctic5...

Alpine Climbing, by E. A. M. Wedderburn. 12 mo.; Manchester: Open Air Publications, Ltd., 1940.The author has succeeded in producing a very valuable little book on mountain technique for those climbers who have served their apprenticeship in small...

“The Tusk" Attempt, Merrill Pass Area. In USGS Bulletin 862 by Stephen R. Capps of 1935 appears a faded black and white picture of a magnificent rock spire captioned: “The Tusk, a glaciated granite pinnacle in the basin of Another River.” A detail...

The Boldest Dream, by Rick Ridgeway. New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1979. 170 pages. Cloth $10.95.In terms of climbing achievement, the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition was very unimpressive. True, two of its members reached the summ...

K2, West Face, Variation. In 1994, the Tokai Branch of the Japanese Alpine Club started its exploration of new routes to the summit of K2. After a long exploration, we came to the conclusion that, taking the West Ridge route of the 1981 Waseda Uni...

Squamish Chief, Unfinished Symphony Route. Finding a completely new route on the oft-climbed Apron on the lower 700-foot extension of the Squamish Buttress took considerable study. Convinced that there was a possible line between the “Diedre” and ...

Devil’s Thumb, first winter ascent and epic, solo. On March 11 Zac Hoyt had an early breakfast at his home in Petersburg and helicoptered to base camp below the southeast face of the Devil’s Thumb (9,077'). Immediately he soloed the Krakauer route...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Ricksecker Point CliffAbout 1300 on June 11, 1983, Lts. Harold Spiess (26) and Paul Magaudda (26) arrived at the Nisqually gate of Mount Rainier National Park. They were roommates, and both w...

EXPOSURE–WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, HYPOTHERMIA, FALL ON ROCK–UNABLE TO COMPLETE DESCENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanIn late December, Joseph Crowe (25) began fixing pitches on the Zodiac (VI 5.7, A) on El Capitan, inten...