FALLING ROCKNevada, Red Rocks Canyon NCAOn May 2, on the fifth pitch of the Original Route (5.9,A2) on the Rainbow Wall in Red Rock Canyon, a climber (35) accidentally dislodged a four foot by two foot by six inch sandstone block that fell 100 fee...
Gonga Sham Attempt and Tragedy. On August 25. Hitoshi Watanabe, Takuya Fukuzawa, Sachiko Takada (f), Yasuyuki Watanabe, Yosuke Suzuki, Junji Kudo and I as leader established Base Camp at 3950 meters near the tongue of the Yanzeko Glacier north of ...
Climbs in Snow Creek Area, 1982. Jim Yoder did several new routes in the Leavenworth area. Perhaps the most notable was Hyperspace on Snow Creek Wall. It is a sustained free climb with four of the eight pitches being 5.10. The crux is a 5.10d slot...
Peaks above the Dall Glacier. From July 22 to August 1 Donald Davis and I, with Brian and Diane Okonek acting as guides, established a Base Camp on the Dall Glacier, 4¾ miles southwest of Mount Russell. We made the following climbs, all first asce...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Ridge between Mounts Castor and PolluxOn April 21, 1982, a solo climber was ascending the ridge between Mounts Castor and Pollux. He had left his skis where the rock ridge began. On ...
FALL ON SNOW AND HAPE/HACE-ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1430 on May 17, Frainciso Borja (32), a member of the Blue Skies Expedition, was witnessed by NPS Ranger Scott Metcalfe and VIP Kirk Mauthner falling from just be...
Mount Shuksan, Nooksack Cirque. Pete Doorish and I visited a summit immediately northeast of Nooksack Tower by climbing from a camp near the northeastern arm of the Price Glacier. The climbing was enjoyable at the outset, but the rock became incre...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Wilson, Wilson MajorOn January 10, J.W. (29) and J.S. (23) were approaching the ice climb Wilson Major on Mount Wilson. They had climbed up the WI III approach pitches of Lady Wilson’s Cleavage and were...
Beartooths, Granite Peak, Directissima. In late July Bob Goodwin and I made what may be a new route on the north face of Granite Peak. We reached the north ridge of Temple Peak at noon and stared over at the north face, determining the most direct...
Lauper Bjerg Attempt, East Greenland. The British Tasilaq Expedition started with four members: Anthony Day, Stuart Raeburn, Nigel Topping and me. Unfortunately, Day had to leave the expedition early. Along with geological and glaciological studie...
Goat Glacier, various ascents. U.K. climbers Glenn Wilks, Geoff Hornby, Alistair Duff, and Susie Sammut flew into the upper part of the southwest fork of the Goat Glacier in the Granite Range. This fork had not been explored by climbers from Ultim...
Kankar Pünzum Attempt. The Himalayan Association of Japan expedition was composed of Michifumi Ohuchi, leader, Yoshio Ogata, climbing leader, Hitoshi Watanabe, Sadao Hangaya, Koichi Ezaki, Shinya Kobayashi, Makoto Miyoshi, Tetsuya Kudo, Fumie Kume...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, POSSIBLY OFF ROUTEWashington, Guye PeakOn October 13, Ken Colburn (49) was climbing Guye Peak with a friend when he fell 300 feet over a cliff to his death. The two had just unroped near the summit when they reached easier t...
Chamlang East Attempt. Jon Deak and I, one of four regular members and founder and life president respectively of the Juilliard Mountain Club (and both professional double bass players), set up “Bass” Camp near the lower Barun Glacier in mid May. ...
Heartstone Peak, North Buttress. In late July, from a fine camp on a tiny outcrop at the edge of the Cataract Glacier icefall, Carl Diedrich, Greg Collum and I spent a beautiful day ascending this unclimbed buttress. The route was entirely snow an...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS California, Mount WhitneyOn July 3, 1986, Mike Meteyer (27) and Jim Raymond (28) were climbing the Classic East Face route on Mount Whitney. In the early afternoon they were at the lower portion of the Grand Sta...
Broad Peak Tragedy. We reached Base Camp at the foot of Broad Peak on May 7. We gave up our original plan to traverse all the summits since we lacked the facilities to do so. We divided into two groups. Hermann Lais and Helmut Rüdele attempted Bro...
Pisco Oeste, Via Traversiade. On the south face of Pisco Oeste (5,752m) on August 21 Italians Tarcisio Bello, Ivan Camolini, Michele Grigenti, and Bruno Castegnaro climbed what may be a new route, Via Traversiade (TD+, 90°) in 10 hours from the ba...
Campanile Esloveno, Above Bariloche, Northern Patagonia, 1992. February 13,1992 was the 40th Anniversary of the first ascent of the Campanile Esloveno, which caused quite a stir when it was first done. In celebration of the event, Dinko Bertoncelj...
On September 19, during Argentina’s dry 2010 winter, in the remote and little-visited Cordillera Ansilta, located 250km north of Mendoza and 50km from Barreal, Gabriel Fava (Argentina) and I climbed a new route on Ansilta 4 (5,116m). From ba...