Trango: The Nameless Tower, by Jim Curran. Sheffield, England: Dark Peak, 1978. 175 pages, 42 pages of black-and-white photos; 16 color plates. £6.95.Here is a climb that deserved a better book.The climb was the first ascent in 1976 of the “Namele...
Kiukiurtliu, Lukashbili Route. Climbers from Dagistan chose Kiukiurtliu, a mountain located on the southeastern spur of Mt. Elbrus (4.5 kilometers from the west summit), for their entry in the high altitude class of the Russian Climbing Championsh...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The Scientific Expedition of the University of Shizuoka was led by Ryuichi Tsuchi and composed of Ryozo Yamamoto, Mayumi Takahashi, Takeshi Sugimoto, Tom Wada, Kinya Ota, Hiroshi Ando, and Dr. Asaji Kokue. They collec...
Various first descents and possible first ascents. Inspired by our friend Nevada Christianson and her quest to solo Mt. Logan s East Ridge, Trevor Hunt and I found ourselves wandering the giant glaciers of Kluane Reserve like ski safari nomads. On...
A Middle-Aged MountainRICHARD N. MEYERSome mountains seem particularly ancient, austere, and noble. Others seem hard and young and defiant. But in 1955 I ran across a mountain which I can only think of as middle-aged. The glittering array of snow-...
Shiprock’s East FaceCameron M. BurnsIN THE LATE 1980s, LUKE LAESER and I began collecting information, stories and even perceptions about climbing on the Navajo Reservation. We were surprised with what we learned.My first experience on Navajolands...
Mount Everest, Solo, by the Great Couloir. From the Tibetan side on August 20 at three P.M. Reinhold Messner became the first person to make the entire ascent of Mount Everest solo and the second non-Sherpa to climb the mountain by two different r...
Slesova, West-Southwest Face, Fiamma d’Oriente. Andrea Zanetti, Cristoforo Groaz and Giorgio Pancheri (Italy) opened a 1300-meter route, Fiamma d’Oriente (7 A3+), on the West-Southwest face of Pik Slesova (Russian Tower, 4240 m) in the Ak-Su Valle...
Washington: Northern Cascades, Mt. Pilchuck. In August 1949 five high school boys from Renton were on a fishing trip to Lake 22, on the east shoulder of this peak. While they were traversing a steep snow field above the lake, the boys, all of whom...
Though climbing has been going on in Baffin Island since at least 1934, and in earnest since the early 1970s, it wasn’t until 1994 that the world was formally introduced to the vast untapped climbing potential on the island’s east coast. Eugene Fi...
In July the second expedition of the Polish Apolobamba Exploration Project visited the Huancasayani Valley. The first, in 2009, reported in AAJ 2010, included Wojciech Chaladaj, Jakub Galka, and me. This time I was accompanied by Filip Drozdz, T...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. 1997 brought the Sierra Nevada Section continued growth and success spiced with daunting new challenges. With the addition of western Nevada to our geographic region plus an increasing number of Southern Californians wa...
SUDDEN DEATH - NEAR DENALI PASSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 2200 on July 7, Ranger John Loomis received a call on the emergency call out phone from ranger Kevin Wright at the 14,200-foot camp. Wright reported that he had received FRS ra...
At Grips with Jannu, by Jean Franco and Lionel Terray. Translated by Hugh Merrick. London: Victor Gollancz Limited, 1967. 192 pages; 60 photographs.“When Jannu huffs, nothing is left. That is why there are no longer any Yetis in the area. That is ...
Unprecedented amounts of good weather greeted climbers in the 2007–08 Patagonia season, resulting in numerous new routes and significant ascents. [Note: This summary supplements the individual reports, mostly of longer routes, below.]On the southe...
The Mountains of New ZealandKate GardinerLITTLE more than a fortnight's voyage from San Francisco lies New Zealand with its English-speaking population and glorious Southern Alps, a veritable Mecca for the mountaineer with as good and perhaps even...
Kampur, attempt. In August and September Pete Linkroum, Jacob Moore, and I explored the Ishkoman region of the Hindu Raj. Our plan was to attempt Jutebar Peak (ca 5600m) near Darkot Pass, but due to poor conditions we turned our sights to a new li...
In August, as part of a Mammut Team Trip, I joined Austrian David Lama and Swiss Giovanni Quirici and Stephan Siegrist, and with photographer Rainer Eder, filmmaker Christoph Frutiger, and expedition organizer Robert Steiner (Germany) made a trip ...
Everest via the Great Couloir. Our climbing team of Lincoln Hall, Andrew Henderson, Greg Mortimer, Tim Macartney-Snape and me as leader was joined by a four-man film crew and two Nepali assistants. We felt totally intimidated by the huge 3000-metr...
Peak Gorky (6,050m), south face, Slovenia Direct. In July-August 2003 the region of famous peaks Pobeda and Khan-Tengri was visited by expedition from Slovenia. Its members were mostly young alpinists, climbing at such heights for the first time: ...