Cho Oyu. The Indian expedition led by Keki F. Bunshaw made the second ascent of Cho Oyu on May 15 when Sherpas Pasang Dawa Lama and Sonam Gyalzen reached the 26,867-foot summit. This was the second time that Pasang Dawa, now in his late forties, h...
Fitz Roy. In a letter to Toncek Arko, Solvenes Bogdan Bišcak, Rado Fabjan and Matevž Lenarcic told of an ascent they made when they first arrived in the region. It would seem that they had not joined the rest of the Slovene expedition to Cerro Tor...
HACEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1115 on June 13, Frank Brettholle (51), a member of the “Beer Run” expedition, was found unconscious by his team mates in his tent at the 17,200-foot high camp on Denali’s West Buttress route. His team m...
Memorial to Dr. Paccard At the International Congress of Alpinism, held in Chamonix during August, 1932, there was unveiled a bronze portrait medallion of Dr. Michel Gabriel Paccard, who, in company with Jacques Balmat, made the first ascent ...
Puscanturpa Norte, Via Macanacota, New Route. On August 1, the French climbers Fréderic Paurrage, Alban Faure, and Guillaume Arrisani climbed the northwest face of Puscanturpa Norte (5652m) by a new route. The route begins a few meters to the left...
Paul Stern Land, five first ascents. In May and June Geoff Bonney, my wife Sandy Gregson, and I visited Paul Stern Land. We have all made numerous trips to Greenland and consider ourselves true veterans of the Arctic, with combined ages of 191 yea...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow GlacierOn the afternoon of August 8, 1986, two climbers were descending the Bow Glacier above the Bow Hut. They were roped 15 meters apart, traveling in a well-beaten track within sigh...
Kangchenjunga South Attempt. The leader of three Belgians and a Nepalese on the southwest face of Kangchenjunga, Alain Hubert, reached 8000 meters on October 14 in a solo bid for the summit of Kangchenjunga South. He was forced to bivouac there by...
THE very first ideas about mountain troops for the U. S. Army sprang from the stories about mountain fighting both in the first and second world wars. When the U. S. Army started its rapid expansion in the fall of 1940, the campaigns of the German...
South Howser Minaret, Bad Hair Day. Late in August Lizzy Scully and I drove to the Bugaboo trailhead. After porcupine-proofing Lizzy’s Volvo with chicken wire, we began the approach. We hiked the first day to the Applebee Campground, a primitive c...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. On April 12, 1996, Paul Claus, Carlos Buhler, Ruedi Homberger, Reto Ruesch and Charlie Sassara made the first ascent of Mount Miller on the Bagley ice field in the Wrangell/St. Elias Mountains. The ascent followed a ...
ROGER W. TOLL 1883-1936On February 25th, 1936, the National Park Service incurred a staggering loss when two of its outstanding leaders, Roger W. Toll, superintendent of Yellowstone National Park, and George Wright, chief of the Wild Life Division...
West Coast, various first ascents. The 10m fiberglass yacht Dodo’s Delight, skippered by Bob Shepton again visited the West Coast. After sailing from Scotland to Godthab (Nuuk) via Cape Farewell, the crew progressed a short distance to 65°N and an...
Imagination-Grands Charmoz North FaceJohn Bouchard… L’imagination, inquiète et débile Vient rendre nul en eux l’effort de la Raison.Dans leurs veines le sang, subtil comme un poison,Brûlant comme une lave, et rare, et coule et roule En grésillant ...
JULIA GRINNELL1888–1960Love of the outdoors was foremost among the many attributes of Julia Grinnell. She loved to travel, too, and travel she did to many countries of the world to take part in mountain climbing, white-water canoeing and ornitholo...
Our muscles tensed when we heard the air rushing across the rock face. Seconds later we were rudely buffeted by an incredibly strong and ferocious blast of wind. We worried lest our excellent Austrian bivouac sack should tear and leave us com...
JULIUS REINHOLD BOEHM 1897-1981Julius sat with his back against the warm rocks on the upper crater rim of Mount Rainier. He was writing in the summit register. I looked over his shoulder and read the words, “America is the greatest country in the ...
Nico Sar, First Ascent. On August 12, 2000, Amy Rice and Walter Keller (U.S.) completed an alpine style onsight ascent of a previously unclimbed peak that they christened Nico Sar. Nico Sar (ca. 5800m) is located in the far western Karakoram on th...
In September, Recep Ince (Turkey), Plinio Botterini, Massimo Sacchi, and I (all from Italy) completed the first ascent of the west face of Coban Kiri by a route we named Top Secret. This was my fourth visit in three years to Ala Daglar to climb ne...
AVALANCHE, WEATHER Washington, Mount BakerOn August 3,1986, Ian Kraabel (23), director of Summit Mountain Guides from Seattle, was guiding Steve Raschik (21), Tom Waller (19), and Kurt Petellin (20) on a climb of Mount Baker after two days of moun...