Murallón, Northeast Face. Casimiro Ferrari, Paolo Vitale and Carlo Adi climbed Murallón (2810 meters, 9212 feet) by its frightful northeast face. Ferrari, who has climbed Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, considers this new route the most difficult yet do...
Palcaraju West, Cordillera Blanca. On July 28 César Morales Arnao, Alberto Ruibal, and A. Jamanca, of the Club Andinista Cordillera Blanca, made a new route on Palcaraju in the course of which they climbed a new 19,685-foot summit.
Cerro Arenas, East Face of East Summit. On November 30 Eric Soulié and I made the first ascent of the east face of the east summit of Cerro Arenas above the Cajón del Maipo. We lacked technical equipment to do the direttissima.Yves Astier, Club Al...
Cochamo, Various Ascents. It was reported that British and American climbers have begun developing an area of granite big walls in the Patagonian Andes east of Puerto Montt in a valley 15 miles from the town of Cochamo. Briton Crispin Waddy discov...
Kangchenjunga. On October 10, Australians Michael Groom and John Coulton went to the summit of Kangchenjunga by the southwest face in semi-alpine-style without Sherpas and artificial oxygen and with four bivouacs. However, on the descent their vis...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn June 12, 1984, Paul Ormsby (23) and Michael Doroff (24) hiked to the base of MacGregor Slab intending only to hike up and around the backside of the mountain to t...
Everest, by La Fondation Suisse pour Explorations Alpines. 198 pages, including 136 pages of black and white photographs, 8 of color photographs, and 16 pages of introduction by Othmar Gurtner. Geneva: Jeheber, 1953.This picture book of the Swiss ...
Huayna Potosí, East Face, 1990. Juan Carlos Vázquez, Enrique Rey. Julian Hevia and I made a new route on the east face of Huayna Potosí on July 19, 1990. Our route ascended between the normal route and that of the French. It had a rise of 300 mete...
German Caucasus Expedition, 1936. The German expedition entered the central Caucasus by way of the Baksan Valley and Adyl Su to the Shcheldi Valley where camp was made on the side moraine of a glacier.Bshedykhtau was traversed July 18th-21st. The ...
Coyote Cliffs. These cliffs are in Coyote Creek canyon about three miles above its junction with Bishop Creek, near Route #168. The cliffs have long been avoided by climbers because a group of locals, minds psychochemically dimmed, reported that t...
Other Yosemite Ascents. One of the more remarkable climbs of the year was the second ascend of the sheer 2900-foot high face of El Capitan. (For an account of the first ascent, see A.A.J., 1959, 11:2, pp. 184-189.) This was made in the comparative...
AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE PREPARATION AND ROUTE SELECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaThe morning of September 4, 1990, dawned with pristine clarity in the Columbia Icefields area. R.D. and J.E., both of Salt Lake City, Utah, had just arri...
P 5753, Trango Towers. A Japanese expedition led by Reiji Nonaka ascended P 5753 (18,875 feet). Also on the expedition were the leader’s wife Yukiko, Toshikazu Fujita, Takao Sasaki and Masahiro Oto. They climbed 63 pitches on the east face and sou...
Himachal PradeshKhangla Tarbo I, First Ascent. An Irish expedition led by 65-year-old Patrick O’Leary, whois one of the prime explorers of the Spiti Himalaya, made the first ascent of Kangla Tarbo I (6315m), which had remained a major unclimbed pe...
Karrat Isfjord, West Greenland. An expedition of the Deggendorf Section of the German Alpine Club, led by Georg Leitl, climbed north of Umanak from June 29 to July 31 and made 12 first ascents.
JOHN C. CASE1892-1983One night over forty years ago a tall figure walked into the firelight where my bride and I were honeymooning in the Tetons saying “Any room around the fire for an old man?” Thus began a friendship which brought John very clos...
Annapurna, South Face Ascent and Tragedy. The 13th ill-fated climber in Nepal in the post-monsoon season was a Belgian, who died in the season’s most dramatic death, having disappeared with no final trace. Gabriel Denamur was a member of one of tw...
JULIE A. INWOOD1939-1985Julie, like many of us who came from Colorado, was virtually brought up in the mountains. And certainly, in her case, enthusiasm for the mountains was in every way matched by mountaineering competence.Having only recently j...
The Untrodden Andes, by C. G. Egeler and T. de Booy. Foreword by Sir Edmund Hillary. Translated from the Dutch by W. E. James. 203 pages, 51 photographs, 9 maps and sketches. London: Faber and Faber Ltd., 1954. Price, 25 s.Egeler and de Booy have ...
Shartse. This expedition, composed of Gerhard Lenser, leader, Dr. Hermann Warth, Dr. Klaus Peter Bach, Germans, and me, an Austrian, had as its original goal the ascent of Lhotse (27,890 feet) by a new route from the Khumbu side. Protests were mad...