Qioqe Peninsula und Upernivik Island, West Greenland. An expedition of the Italian Alpine Club, Gavirate Section, was led by Dante Caraffini and composed of the Englishman Anthony, Lord Shaftesbury, the Swiss Ami Giroud, Michel Darbellay and André...

Yana Raju de Cotush and Other Peaks. Our party set out to make five possible first ascents in the Quebrada Shahuanca by going up and over the Wamashpunta, as a short cut. The first ascent of Yana Raju de Cotush (5185 meters, 17,010 feet) was made ...

Patichoquichambi, Cordillera Apolobamba. This 16,392-foot peak was the highest point I reached during a four-day circuit of the Ananea massif. On August 4 I climbed it by its north rock face from the highest pass on the Untuca-Sina Pass trail. My ...

Cerro Morro Overo, Central Andes. A number of medium-sized but bold rock peaks near the Mendoza frontier with Chile remain unclimbed, in part because of poor rock. In late December, I entered several relatively unexplored valleys north and south o...

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkAt 1630 on July 27, 1985, I (Roy Curet, 25) attempted to glissade a steep snowfield below Andrew’s Tarn. I quickly realized that the speed ...

California, Yosemite National Park. On 12 March Ken Salzberg (21) and two companions, after climbing the first pitch of “After 6” on Horse Manure Buttress, decided to rappel down in order to try an interesting crack just to the right (east) of the...

AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, ATTEMPTING TO ASCEND TOO FAST Alaska, Mount McKinleyA Ranier Mountaineering, Inc., group began a guided ascent of the West Buttress on July 1, 1987. On July 7, the group moved from the 3330-meter level to 3850 meters— bel...

Ice Climbing above Nabesna, Wrangell Mountains. On April 2, Harry Hunt and I drove to the town of Nabesna, north of the Wrangell Mountains, to climb several frozen waterfalls we had scouted in January when we had snowshoed up canyons to check out ...

The Cordillera Oriental has been explored during the last decade by Tony Barton and various partners. It was reading about his new route in 2010 with Tom Chamberlain on the south face of Huaguruncho (Huagaruncho, 5,723m, AAJ 2011) that sparked ...

Dhaulagiri Attempt and Tragedy. An Austrian expedition led by Edi Lindenthaler and composed of Josef Inhöger, Erich Unterberger, Hans and Hansjörg Linderthaler, Franz Müllender, Hans Gapp and Martin Homegger had hoped to climb the northwest ridge ...

Mount Everest, Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition. The 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition was conducted to search for evidence of the 1924 British attempt on Mt. Everest and to recover information about the high point reached by Georg...

Mamostong Kangri. The expedition which I led was composed of 25 members of the Ladakh Scouts. No additional high-altitude porters were used. We left Leh, traveled via Diskit, Sasmoma, Saser La, Shyok River, Thangman (Kichik Kumdan) Glacier to Mamo...

Everest Attempt. Belgian Karl Huyberechts attempted to climb the South Col route on Everest solo. He got to 8500 meters on May 8 but had to turn back from there because of problems with his oxygen equipment.Elizabeth Hawley

Czarsky Tron, southwest wall, new route. In February 2003 a team from Krasnoyarsk climbed a new route on the southwest face of Czarsky Tron (Czar’s Throne, 2,500m) located in the Kodar Range, Eastern Siberia. The temperature on the arrival at base...

White Limbo: The First Australian Climb of Mt. Everest. Lincoln Hall. Kevin Weldon, McMahons Point, 1985. 262 pages, color photographs, route diagrams, map, glossary. $40.00 (US).The rich and varied lore of mountaineering literature devoted to Mou...

INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCKIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Parking Lot RockOn August 19 Jeff Everett (49) was lowered off the end of his seventy-meter rope on “Delay of the Game.”He fell at least 20-30 meters, impacting ledges and a Maho...

TABLE IIGeographical DistrictsAccidents1947-19541955Atlantic States—North 141South20 Central — 2 Colorado 324Utah 40Wyoming 193Montana & Idaho 61Arizona & Nevada 50California 234 Oregon 173Washin...

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn February 3, 1993, at 1200, Carl Siegel (30) and Tim Cumbo (35) were descending the Cables (North Face) Route on Longs Peak after having successfu...

Grosse Zinne. The north face of this forbidding pillar, one of the most impossible looking walls in the Dolomites, has at last succumbed to the “hardware” technique that in the Eastern Alps goes under the name of rock-climbing. A number of attempt...

Everest Attempt via the Japanese Couloir. An Italian expedition led by Giuseppe Pozzoli was unable to climb the north face of Everest. They got to 7000 meters in the Japanese Couloir on September 29.Elizabeth Hawley