Pingora, East Face. On July 20 Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I did a new route on this face, which should perhaps be called the east-southeast face since our route lies between the usual “southeast” face and the climb done last summer on the “east”...
Ninashanca, Yerupajá and Jirishanca West Face. The Klub Wysokogórski Zakopane expedition was composed of Lech Korniszewski, leader, Maciej Pawlikowski, Zdzislaw Kiszela and Boguslaw Probulski. After acclimatizing in the Cordillera Blanca, they est...
El Capitan, Slacker's Toil. Slacker’s Toil (VI 5.9 A5b) is a four-and-a-fourth-pitch variant to Surgeon General/Lunar Eclipse. My variation climbs an A5 pitch and an A4+ pitch on a superloose feature, The Great Sword. I basically soloed the lower ...
Shisha Pangma. It was reported that five expeditions attempted Shisha Pangma this spring, all by the Standard Route. Only three men continued on to the main summit. Erhard Loretan summitted in a solo climb that began at 5:30 a.m. on April 28 from ...
P 9420, P 9900, P 10,200 and Mount Hess, Southeast Ridge, Hayes Range. Roman Dial, Matt Van Enkevort, Martin Leonard and Chuck Comstock climbed P 9420 in January. The first two then climbed P 9900 and P 10,200. These three first ascents all lie ea...
Washington, Mt. Baker (See accident report.) Hans Jorritsma placed Miss Huckell in a shallow moat between the rock and ice at an elevation of 8000 ft. He remained with her until 3:00 A.M. (12 hours), then left for help. Instead of returning by way...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUTNew York, ShawangunksA climber (25) was leading Supercrack (5.13) in May when he fell after the Friend on which he was resting pulled out. The fall resulted only in a sprained ankle. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisSometim...
Nemjung. It was reported that a nine-man French team led by Jean Paul Bouquier reached 6410 meters on the west ridge of Nemjung (7140m) via the north flank before poor weather called a halt to their expedition. (High Mountain Sports 179)
Mount Logan. This year the Arctic Institute initiated a program of high-altitude physiology as a part of its work to advance understanding of the total environment of the St. Elias Mountains. The first objective was the establishment of a research...
The Pyramid, North Rib. This rib begins in MacMillan Cirque 2500 feet below the summit of the Pyramid. It starts as a rock buttress, then changes to an elegant snow crest as it merges with the east shoulder of Degenhardt Glacier. On June 27, my br...
Alaska, Mt. Marcus Baker. On 22 June Helga Bading, John Bousman, Aaron Schnieder, and Ruth Schnieder (25) were ascending the Knik Glacier. While taking over the lead to break trail in waist deep snow Ruth stepped through a hidden bergschrund and f...
Mount McKinley, Western Rib of South Face. The Japanese ladies expedition was led by Michiko Sekita and composed of Nobue Yajima, Mitsuko Toyama, Sachiko Watanabe and Sueko Inoue. Misses Yajima, Toyama and Watanabe disappeared after leaving Camp V...
Shivling, West Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Shiro Kurau-chi, leader, Takao Kobayashi, Miss Kinuko Ihara, Yoshiyuki Inoue, Miss Hisako Adachi, Katsuji Yamasaki, Masatoshi Iwasa, Hiroshi Nishie, Miss Kazuko Minesaki, Yukitaka Inoue and me. ...
Aguja Guillaumet, North-Northwest Ridge, Free Ascent and Other Activity. Bruce Miller and I arrived at Chalten at the end of November with the intentions of trying the Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy. After our first and only attempt on December 3, we d...
Mount Logan, Second Ascent of Catenary Ridge. The members of the Gifu Mountaineering Association expedition were Shigeru Itoh, leader, Keisuke Horii, Toshikatsu Tsuchida, Yumihiko Tanaka, Yoshihisa Kato, and Tsugio Suzuki. On May 21 they were flow...
FALL, EQUIPMENT FAILURE, LOAD TOO HEAVY FOR PACKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lyell GroupAbout noon on July 13, 1985, a party of 13 was hiking at 2000 meters on a mountaineering approach. From time to time they would stop and wait for stragglers. At o...
FALLING SNOW BLOCK Alaska, Denali National Park, Mount BarrilleA party of four, Dr. Jim Sprott, Niles Woods, Martina Volfova and Kneeland Taylor, flew into the Ruth Glacier on April 19 with Talkeetna Air Taxi. On the 20th the group climbed Mount D...
Other Kishtwar Expeditions. Mo Anthoine, Bill Barker, Joe Brown and Pete Minks attempted Brammah II (21,080 feet). They reached the southwest col at 18,000 feet and established camp, but bad weather and fresh snow prevented further progress. Thirt...
Gangotri I and Rudugaira. A second Indian Mountaineering Foundation Pre-Everest Expedition climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet) on October 15, 16, and 17, when eleven men and three women reached the summit. Eleven members also climbed Rud...
Aiguille Extra. In June Mike Heath and I climbed the obvious dihedral on the east face of the 1200-foot needle directly south of Third Needle in the Whitney Group. We called this needle or blade Aiguille Extra and rate it V, F8, A3. The earlier ro...