Casiri, Cordillera Real, 1990. After being attacked twice by locals on the three-day hike from Achacachi to the southern base of Casiri, Jim Petroske and I camped below the icefall that tumbles down the southeast section of the glaciers that cover...

Austrian Caucasus Expedition, 1936. An Austrian party under Prof. Rudolf Schwarzgruber made a number of climbs in the central Caucasus around the Bezingï Glacier.Tikhtengen was climbed by the W. ridge on July 15th and descended by the E. ridge, a ...

DORRELL LOOFF 1911-1981Dorrell Looff, a member of the American Alpine Club for nineteen years, died on February 10, 1981. His father’s family helped build Coney Island and many amusement parks across the country. One of the brothers carved horses ...

Khan Sar and Sahan Sar, First Ascents. In August, a six-man international team visited an unnamed glacial system above the village of Bhort in the Ishkoman Valley region of northern Pakistan. The team consisted of Graham Rowbotham and Tom Gleeson ...

This very difficult climb was completed for the first time in 2½ days by Royal Robbins, Charles Pratt and Joe Fitschen.

FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, RAPID ASCENT, PARTY SEPARATED, CLIMBING UNROPED, WEATHER Washington, Mount RainierOn July 5,1986, climbers Frank Amenta (24) and Philip Rosenthal (33) became disoriented in a white out and descended Willis Wall instead of ...

The Granite Towers of the Arrigetch, Brooks RangeJeanne BergenGranite towers and spires with clean, sweeping faces — on the order of the Bugaboos or Logan Mountains — are rare. Virgin granitic groups of this type are an even rarer phenomenon, a mo...

Savage Arena. Joe Tasker. St. Martin’s Press, New York, 1982. 270 pages, 52 black and white photographs, 8 sketch maps, 6 diagrams. $18.95.Climbing, more than most sports, seems to foster the autobiographical urge. At its most difficult, its viole...

Peak 5242m, First Ascent. A 16-member Indian expedition led by Pradeep Kr. Kar intended to attempt the virgin peak Panch Chuli III via the eastern approaches in May. They approached from Son Duktu village and through the Meola Glacier. However, co...

Skiing the Karakoram High RouteGalen A. RowellMY EXPEDITION DREAMS have almost always failed, not in the field on some windswept ridge where the elements proved too strong for human powers to overcome, but around a campfire in the Sierra or the de...

Pumori Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. Many climbers reached the summit of Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet) in the post-monsoon period. All ascended the normal southeast face and ridge route. On September 18, Italian Marino Giacometti, leader, ...

FALL ON CRUSTY SNOW-"CAUGHT" A CRAMPON WHILE DESCENDING, PARTY SEPARATEDOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn May 20, professional guide Joe Owens (also a PMR team leader) encountered an injured climber at the 9,300-foot elevation being assisted by anot...

Vidin Heights, Melnik Peak, Melnik Ridge, first ascent. Miziya Peak (604m: 62°36'06.4" S, 60°09'11.2" W) is the main summit of Vidin Heights, a cluster of peaks, nunataks, and hills extending eight km in the northeast extremity of Livingston Islan...

GLACIAL ADVANCE ON MOUNT BAKERThe Coleman Glacier on Mt. Baker, a 10,750-foot volcanic peak in Washington State, occupies on the north the natural depression formed at the junction of the present summit cone and an older volcanic cone somewhat to ...

Mathias Zdarsky, the Pioneer of Alpine SkiingPaul Schlesinger1SOME months ago the message arrived that Mathias Zdarsky passed away on June 20, 1940, aged 85 years, in Sanct Poelten near Vienna. There is no doubt that he belongs to the great person...

The 1960-61 Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition, Mount Everest and Makalu region, Preliminary Report. This expedition, led by Sir Edmund Hillary, is one of the largest, longest and most diversified ever to enter the Himalayas. Altho...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILED TO FOLLOW ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Mexico, Sandia Mountains, Muralla GrandeDave Kilgore (36), Don McIntyre (44), and Steven Patchett (39) were climbing the La Selva rou...

STRANDED CLIMBER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND FOOD AND CLIMBING UNROPEDColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeA party of three (two males, early 20s, and one female, 17) began soloing Organ Pipes (5.6) on th...

Triumph and Tragedy by Jim Curran, is the definitive story in English of what happened on K2 in the summer of 1986. Jim was cameraman for a British expedition, led by his good friend Alan Rouse, an experienced climber. They were stopped on the nor...

Zaalayskiy Range, Pik Ekishak, first ascent; Pik Molly, northwest ridge; Zarya Vostoka and Kurumdy West, attempts. Our Madteam/X-plore Expedition of Raúl Andrés, Olga Ariño, Irene Artuñedo, Enric Canosa, Albert Falcó, Daniel Guimaraens, Julio Masi...