Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Trisul

Trisul. Twelve girls of the National Cadet Corps (of India) were led on an expedition to Trisul by Colonel Jagjit Singh. Seven reached the summit.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South American, Chilean–Argentine Patagonia, Corrections and Additions to Accounts of Chilean-Argentine Patagonia in A.A.J., 1984

Corrections and Additions to Accounts of Chilean-Argentine Patagonia in A.A.J., 1984 With the climbing season in the Southern Hemisphere coming close to publication date, it is now necessary to add to and correct what was published last year. The ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Chamlang

Chamlang. A joint Korean-Nepalese expedition of five was led by Woo Jong-Duk. After establishing four camps and bivouacking, Woo, Bae Hyo- Soon and Huh Gung-Yeal, Ang Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa and Azuwa Sherpa got to the summit on October 10. They clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Central Andes, Cerro Pire and Other First Ascents, 1989

Cerro Pire and Other First Ascents, 1989. In early March of 1989, a large Argentine-Italian group, led jointly by A. Toujas and Francesco Santon, made the following first ascents: Cerro Pire (3850 meters, 12,631 feet), Cerro de la Natividad (3810 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Karakoram, Mamostong

Mamostong. Five climbers from Japan and eight from India left Leh by truck, crossed the Khardung La and arrived after a tough drive at the roadhead, Sasoma, in the Nubra valley. Instead of waiting for the ponies that were to carry our gear to Base...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Arches National Park

Arches National Park. In the spring of 1994, Frenchmen Estève Haston and Laurent Gousult climbed Thelma and Louise (III, 5.11+, 5 pitches) on the Southwest Tower of Organ Rock. This was the first free ascent of the popular tower that has at least ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Whyte

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount WhyteD.L. was soloing the north ridge of Mount Whyte on August 1, 1993, when he fell on fourth-class rock. He is unsure of how far he fell, but was in a lot of pain when he r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram Saser Kangri

Saser Kangri. A joint Indo-Taiwanese team led by Hukam Singh had eight Indian members, three of them women, and seven Taiwanese, of whom two were women. They got to the roadhead at Panamik on June 29. They set up Base Camp near the snout of the Ph...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Meru Central Summit (6450 m), an Attempt on the Shark's Fin

Meru Central Summit (6,450m), an attempt on the Shark’s Fin. A four-member Korean team led by Park Sik-Young attempted the east face of Meru Shark’s Fin. They established base camp at Tapovan on May 29, then subsequently two camps on the face, the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Satopanth

Satopanth. Three Indian expeditions climbed Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) in the summer of 1992, all following the northwest ridge, the route pioneered by André Roch in 1947. The summit was reached on June 22 by leader Prasad S. Dhamal, Sur...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Arunachal Pradesh, Gorichen II and Gorichen East

Gorichen II and Gorichen East. Our expedition hoped to climb Kangto (7090 meters, 23,262 feet) in order to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the founding of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling. There was no ascent recorded of Kang...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Northwest Territories, Logan Mountains, Cirque of the Unclimbables, Mt. Proboscis, Spanish Variation, Attempt

Mt. Proboscis, Attempt. It was reported that Spaniards Eduardo Martinez, Iñaki Fernández and Juan Vallejo attempted a new route on Mt. Proboscis. The trio managed 350 meters in 15 days; the climbing to their high point was A3. (Desnivel 146)


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Kedar Dome Ski Attempt; A Female Liaison Officer

Kedar Dome Ski Attempt; A Female Liaison Officer. I led a four-man party from the Alpine Ski Club, all of us over 50 except for our doctor. Our objective was a ski ascent, up and down, of Kedar Dome (6831 meters, 22,410 feet) and so we set out in ...


Accident Reports AAJ
Tetons: (3) Mount Owen

Tetons: (3) Mount Owen. On 24 August 1947 William Mc- Indoe, a park employee 20 years old, fell to a ledge within 40 yds. of the site of the Ramsland accident. This climber had left the valley after a dance the night before, against the advice of ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Pickets and Dead Men: Seasons on Rainier

Pickets And Dead Men: Seasons on Rainier. Bree Loewen. Mountaineers Books, 2009. 189 pages. Paperback. $16.95.After Bree Loewen graduated from college with a degree in philosophy at age 17, she spent four years as a climbing bum and ambulance jock...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mazamas

The Mazamas. The many and varied activities of The Mazamas, headquartered in Portland, Oregon, are developed and coordinated by six committees. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Charlene Degener, selects climb leaders, schedules climbs, sets stan...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam. We climbed the 1961 first-ascent route. Our members were John Michaud, John Tuckey, Scott Johnson, Ken Morr, Ben Greene, Karen Simmonds, Joe Burleson, Ron Crotzer and I as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on September 16. We then fixed ...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Menlungtse, North Face Attempt

Menlungtse, north face attempt. In October 1999 I was the leader of a four-man U.S.- Canadian party that made the first attempt on the north face of Menlungtse. Our goal was a route at the eastern end of the north face, which we hoped would lead d...


Notes AAJ
Correspondence

At the moment of going to press we have received from the Alpine Club of Canada a copy of the letter of protest sent by them in connection with the altering of the name Castle Mtn. to “Mt. Eisenhower.” The American Alpine Club is in entire agreeme...