Ojos del Salado. A joint Argentine-Italian-Czechoslovakian expedition was led by Italian Francesco Santon. Argentine Manuel Montoya and Czechs Petr Šverma and I climbed the Ojos del Salado from the south in five days from Casadero Grande, arriving...
P 6000 and Z3, Durung Drung Glacier. A Japanese expedition of ten men and one woman ascended the Durung Drung Glacier to make what they state was the first ascent of P 6000 (19,685 feet) at the head of the glacier. Katsuo Sakai and three others se...
Aguja Rafael, Quilombo. When Zack Smith and I arrived at the Chalten Massif in Argentine Patagonia, the weather had been bad for over two months, with no sign of improvement. We established our high camp within a week, and amazingly the weather be...
Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Our expedition was composed of Enrique Benavente, Juan Cerda, Emilio Civis, Berta Escola, Heinz Porkorski, Jorge Pons, Sara Pinazo, Elisabeth Verges and me as leader. We climbed a total of twelve virgin peaks. Aft...
Agua Negra Region, New Peaks. Using as a base a small populated place called Guardia Vieja, situated at 3000 meters on the new international road to Chile, we climbed for 20 days among the peaks near Agua Negra Pass. We were Miguel Beorchia, Lucia...
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, “PITONS” PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn July 31, 1989, Paul Hammond (21), Erik Larson (17), and Carl Steger (21) were traversing fro...
Ama Dablam, Autumn Ascents and Attempts. Ama Dablam (6812 meters, 22,349 feet) continues to be very popular. All climbs and attempts in this post-monsoon season were made on the southwest ridge with the exception of one unsuccessful attempt. A two...
Batura I and Haramosh Attempts. There were two unsuccessful Polish expeditions, one to Batura I led by Jerzy Tillak and the other Haramosh led by Jacek Bruzdowiez. Details are not known.
North Face of Liberty Bell, Cascades. Towards the end of August, 1956, Hans Kraus and John Rupley packed up Early Winters Creek in the eastern Cascades, above Lake Chelan, to attempt a route on the north face of Liberty Bell. A brief reconnaissanc...
Colorado—Rocky Mts., Wolf Creek Pass: On 12 August 1953, Douglas Beard (15) and two companions, all members of a scout troop summer camp, set out to climb a steep slope above Wolf Creek Pass. About 100 feet up, Beard lost his footing and plunged t...
Bottleneck Peak, San Rafael Swell, 1993. In March 1993, John Allen and I climbed the north face of the west sub-summit shoulder of Bottleneck Peak (II, 5.10+) in Buckthorn Wash.James Funsten, Unaffiliated
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite National ParkOn September 7, 1991, John Medlock (28) was lead climbing the Nutcracker route on Manure Pile Buttress and was about 120 feet off the ground going around a large rock horn when h...
Access issues. In the middle of 2007 the Egyptian Tourism Ministry announced that they were banning climbing in Sinai, which would have effectively stopped all climbing in Egypt. However, by late autumn this had been rescinded and Dave Lucas made ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake CragD.L. was leading a pitch at the Back of the Lake Crag on June 6, 1993 when he fell. His protection pulled, and he hit the ground, sustaining a compound ...
Nanda Devi Sanctuary, investigative expedition. The president of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, N Vohra, organized an expedition in June-July 2001 to investigate whether the Sanctuary should be opened to climbers, trekkers, and scientific r...
Chau Chau Kang Nilda, Southeast Ridge. A ten-member expedition from Calcutta was led by Alok Basu. On September 15, Miss Yana Banerjee-Bey, Apu Chatterjee, Sumit Data, Mrs. Kalpana Ghosh, Tapo Nayan Ghosh, Chan- chal Hazra, Amaresh Malakar, and hi...
Spantik, new route on northwest face. Koreans Kim Hyung-il, Kim Pal-bong, and Min Jun- young completed a new route on the northwest face of Spantik (7,027m) in mid-July. The Korean route, which they graded VI WI4 M8, ascends steep snow to a diffic...
Thalay Sagar, north face, new route. A Bulgarian team tackled the unclimbed right side of the face, well right of the 1999 Russian Direct and in the same vicinity as the line attempted by Lindblade and Whimp in 1996. They climbed in capsule style ...
Nilkanth Attempt. In October, four of us Scots attempted the long, challenging southeast ridge of Nilkanth (6596 meters, 21,640 feet), previously tried by British and American expeditions. From Advance Base at 5000 meters, south of the ridge, we c...
The Moated Mountain, by Showell Styles. London: Hurst and Blackett, 1955. 255 pages; ills.; diagrams; endpaper map. Price 18 s.Showell Styles is also known as Glyn Carr, author of "Murder on the Matterhorn," and other detective stories and books o...