SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE, FALL INTO BERGSCHRUND, UNROPED,NO HARD HATBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mount TantalusOn the morning of August 5, 1989, 18 members of the North Shore Rescue Team were beginning a three-day training exercise in the Mount ...
Weisses Heiligtum, by Keiichi Yamada, Tokyo, author and publisher, 1966. 64 pages of full page black and white photographs, 9 pages of appendix—in Japanese, titles and subtitles translated into German. The book is divided into two parts of about e...
Our light-weight Indo-Swedish expedition was composed of Swedes Ake Nilsson and Birger Andren and Indians Charu Sharma, Dr. Tejvir Singh Khurana and me. Andren had to leave shortly after reaching Base Camp due to high blood pressure. Base Camp was...
Pamirs and Tien Shan, 1971. In Alpinismus of March 1972 there is an excellent summary of the remarkable accomplishments of climbers in the Soviet Union in 1971. Their highest mountain, Pik Kommunisma (24,548 feet) was ascended by 64 climbers, Pik ...
Gasherbrum II, Northeast Ridge, Attempt. In contrast to the relative ease of access from the west (Pakistan), the east side of the Gasherbrum mountains has been called, for geographical as well as political reasons, the “blank on the map” since th...
Lobuje East, East Face. In September, Czechoslovaks Miroslav and Michal Coubal climbed a possibly new route in the center of the east face of Lobuje East (6119 meters, 20,076 feet) which rises between the Lowe-Kendall and the Bibler-Freer routes. ...
Ishkashimsky and Shakhdarinsky ranges, 280km traverse with several ascents. In August-September our group from the sport club of the Moscow Aviation Institute led an autonomous expedition in the South-Western Pamir. This was the first significant ...
Alone to Everest, by Earl Denman. 255 pages, 13 photographs. London: Collins, 1954. Price, $2.38.An Innocent on Everest, by Ralph Izzard. 318 pages. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1954.When some great achievement, book, or play, has attracted g...
Dhaulagiri IV Attempt. A British expedition led by Anthony P. Johnson was composed of nine members. They were trying this very difficult peak from the south via Kangban Khola, the route attempted by the disastrous Austrian expedition of 1969. Vari...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION North Carolina, Crowders Mountain State ParkOn August 30,1993, Jeff Rosenkrans (17) fell 80 feet when the anchor system he and his three friends installed for their rappel came out. He sustained massive head inj...
Shisha Pangma Pre-Monsoon Attempts. An Italian team led by Marco Berti attempted to climb Shisha Pangma in the pre-monsoon season but failed to get higher than 7200 meters. Swiss led by Fredi Graf of Eiselin Sport also made an attempt which ended ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, NutcrackerOn July 1, Paul Bennett (41) and Randy Kanta were climbing the Nutcracker, 5.8, on Manure Pile Buttress. Bennett led the last pitch; he climbed the low-angle slab off the bela...
Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier Winter Ascent. On January 16, Lowell Skoog and I climbed Mount Shuksan via the Price Glacier. Our approach from the Mount Baker Highway was via White Salmon Creek. From the end of the valley we cramponed hard snow to t...
Bhagirathi III. On August 28, New Zealander Kynan Bazely and Australians Vera Wong and I as leader arrived at Nandanban Base Camp. For a week we acclimatized and carried loads to Advance Base at 4900 meters beneath the southwest face. On September...
Zion, Various Ascents. A major route was established across from Angels Landing, between Weeping Rock and Touchstone. Beyond the Pale (VI A3 5.11a) was begun by Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson and finished by Baker and Chris Ducker. A Future With ...
Chamlang’s P 7010. Reinhold Messner obtained permission from the Nepalese government to climb the southest ridge of Makalu. He asked me to accompany him, knowing I had attempted the route in the autumn of 1980 (A.A.J., 1981, pages 244-6). I secure...
Arras, South Face, Forbes Group. On July 23 Cathy Bushnell, Gary Duncan, Pete Grant and I were flown to the base of Mount Arras (10,180 feet). We made the first ascent directly up the center of an uninteresting south face that afternoon. Arras is ...
Castle Rock Spire, Cinco deMayo. Bruce Bindner and I completed a 12-pitch route (V 5.10+ A3) on Castle Rock Spire, slightly to the right of the north arete, over May 3–4. The route parallels the north arete, 150' away. It features excellent, mostl...
Torre de Parón. Four Spaniards from Madrid made an impressive new route on the 900-meter-high east buttress of the Torree de Parón, taking eight days and climbing UIAA difficulty of VI+ , A3. The crux pitches were on the second quarter of the butt...
Jaonli, Attempt, and Various Ascents. A British expedition to Jaonli (6632m) failed to climb the peak due to a six-day spell of heavy rain from September 20 to 25. Deep fresh snow prevented any advance beyond 5400 meters on the normal Northwest Fl...