DARKNESS, STRANDED, RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE JAMMEDColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn February 18, two climbers (one 24) became stranded when darkness fell and their rappel rope jammed on Red Garden Wall. They made a fire to keep war...
Cho Oyu, Oiarzabal record. In the post monsoon of 2003 Cho Oyu was attempted by 36 teams, ranging in size from one to 24 members. The mountain can expect even more teams in the autumn of 2004 to mark the 50th anniversary of its first ascent on Oct...
Shisha Pangma, Southwest Face, 1991. A South Korean expedition led by Oh In-Hwan repeated the British line on the southwest face of Shisha Pangma. The main summit was reached on October 8, 1991 by Kim Chang-Seon (his fourth 8000er) and Kim Jae-Soo...
Crooked Thumb, West Ridge, Tetons. Robert Irvine and Tom Kimbrough climbed this distinct ridge on July 28 in nine pitches plus considerable scrambling. From the drainage separating this ridge from the prominent northwest ridge of Teewinot, a consi...
Our four-person, primarily American party planned to attempt Gyalzen (6,151m) on the Tibetan border. We were not successful, partially due to bad weather but more because of confusion as to identity of the peak. Gyalzen stands close to Leonpo Gang...
Teewinot, Mt. Owen, Grand Teton, Enchainment. Fellow Exum guide Hans Johnstone and I took advantage of a rare shared day off in August to finally bag three routes we had never been on by enchaining the North Face of Teewinot, the North Ridge of Mt...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. A Basque expedition from Spain failed in the pre-monsoon period to climb a new route on Lhotse Shar, a south ridge to the southeast face. They made two camps and two bivouacs above Base Camp. The leader, Xabier Erro, fell ill ...
Aoraki Mount Cook and Westland, summary. The west side of the Divide was relatively quiet this past year, with only two new routes reported. In the summer Craig Cardie and Allan Uren climbed an obvious and reportedly good-quality route to the righ...
Peaks West of Urus Oeste. We climbed in the Cordillera Blanca from June 19 to August 1. We helped in the rescue of a serious climbing accident of the Swiss. A rope-team fell some 1500 feet from just below the summit of Hua- scarán Norte. One climb...
The Sentinel, Farmer Brown. This route (V 5.10+ A3+), by Nate Brown and Joe French, climbs a thin crack system on the pink buttress right of the Streaked Wall waterfall. Approach as for the Streaked Wall. Climb seven pitches of mixed free and aid,...
Mount Baker, Northeast Face. On June 22 Fred Beckey and Don Claunch started from Kulshan Cabin, climbed to Heliotrope Ridge and crossed the Coleman Glacier through several crevasse patterns to the north ridge. Staying below the ridge, we headed ea...
Mount Atter and Other Peaks, Sukkertoppen Icecap, West Greenland. Our nine-man expedition led by Jordi Colomer arrived on July 18 at Søndre Stromfjord. The next day we flew to Sukkertoppen by helicopter. It was difficult to rent a boat to Evigheds...
FALLING ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED–CLIMBING ALONE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESOregon, North SisterOn July 10, three people, including Matt Gorman, were climbing the North Sister. The terrain became more technical than Mr. Gorman’s climbing com-panions were com...
Artesonraju, Southeast Face, and Tocllaraju, Northwest Ridge, Descents. In May and June, Ptor Spricenieks, John Griber, Jason Schutz, Kris Erickson and I teamed up with film-makers Rob DesLauries and Frederick Jacobi and local guide Koky Castaneda...
Mercedario, South Face. An Italian expedition originally had the west face of Mercedario as its objective. They were Alessandro Angelini, Giuseppe Angelotti, Carlo Barbolini, Gianluca Benedetti, Fabrizio Convalle, Bruno Nicolini, Giancarlo Polacci...
South Walsh, first ascent; Mt. Walsh, Southeast Ridge; other ascents. On May 28 Graham Rowbotham and I reached the pointed summit of South Walsh (4,223m). This was the highest unclimbed peak in the St. Elias range and, as claimed in AAJ 2006 (p. 1...
Minor peaks: Rockchuck Peak, two ascents ; Cloudveil Dome, Disappointment Peak, Storm Point Symmetry Spire, Prospectors Mountain, Veiled Peak, and Eagles Rest each one ascent. The three peaks last mentioned, climbed by Phil Smith and various compa...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire. On 8 August Sheldon Smith (18) and James Erickson (18) were climbing on Symmetry Spire. According to Smith, he slipped on the snow patch in Symmetry Couloir about 20 feet above the bottom. He was...
Ski traverse from Knud Rasmussens Land, through the Watkins Mountains and Gronau Nunatakker, to Paul Stern Land; various first ascents, new routes, and repeats. During April and May Dominik Rind and I made six first ascents in the Gronau Nunatakke...
Satopanth. Three Japanese made Base Camp at Nandanban on September 13, Advance Base at 16,750 feet, Camps I and II at 19,300 and 21,325 feet, and climbed to the summit via the north ridge on September 30. They were Haruo Takahashi, Hisao Hara and ...