FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 14, 1991, at 1530, Mark Horton (30) slipped while traversing the snowfield at the base of the Cable Route on the North Face of Longs Peak. Horton...
Southwest Desert Soft Rock Climbing. Among the main attractions of the desert around Moab are the rich reds and blacks and blues of hematite and manganese, the alpenglow at day’s end, the play of light and shadow on angular rock, and the lure of t...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Quebec, Val David, Mount KingOn September 25,1993, F.C. (30), with seven years’ climbing experience, and F.D. (33) with two years experience, were attempting “The Crown,” a medium difficult route on Mount King. ...
Raksha Urai, attempt. Hubert Fritzenwaller’s five-man Austrian expedition failed at ca 5800m on one of Raksha Urai’s unclimbed summits (assumed to be the Rakshi Urai III as mentioned by the British party below). The team gave up on the east face i...
K2 Attempt. We were Doug Dalquist, leader, Greg Collins, Bob Hess, Dan Heilig and I. Except for the few mornings when the porters had to be persuaded to carry in poor weather, the 11-day approach went without incident. Within a few days of our arr...
Dharamsura Attempt and Ascent. Two Japanese expeditions approached Dharamsura (6446 meters, 21,150 feet) from different directions. Four climbers led by Zenkosuke Sakurazawa approached from Manikaran in Kulu in July. They were stopped by monsoon w...
Lhotse. An international expedition was highly successful on the west face of Lhotse. Leader Oskar Kihlborg and Mikael Reuterswärd of Sweden were the first Scandinavians on the summit, arriving on May 9. Mexican Carlos Carsolio was back in Kathman...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Paintbrush DivideOn July 18, at about 1350, Stewart Laing (47) slid about 30 feet on snow, then cart-wheeled another 75-100 feet on talus near the summit of Paint...
Nalumasortoq, West Face, Mussel Power. In July, in Southern Greenland, Silvo Karo (Slovenia), Tony Penning (U.K.) and I made the first ascent of Mussel Power, a direct line up the center of the North Tower of Nalumasortoq. The route was 800 meters...
Glorious Failures and Courageous Misfortune, with forewords by John Harlin III and Mark Synnott respectively (Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001; paperback, $16.95), launch a new anthology series “distinguished by a specific adventuring theme.”
The Climbing Cartoons of Sheridan Anderson. Text by Joe Kelsey. High Peaks Press, Wilson, Wyoming, 1989. 143 pages, illustrated. $12.95.Sheridan Anderson died in 1984 at the age of 47. Those who may not recognize the name will surely recognize his...
Cabeza de Condor, New Route. In August, 1996, Erik Monasterio (Bolivia/New Zealand) and Jared Ogden (U.S.) climbed a new route on Cabeza de Condor (a.k.a. Condoriri, Gran Condoriri, 5648m). Starting at the easternmost part of the face, the pair cl...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWashington, Guy PeakOn January 7, John Hughes (46) climbed Guy Peak with four other experienced friends. He was just starting to descend when he slipped from his glissade and could not selfarrest. He yelled, “Out ...
Pisco Oeste, South Face. Frenchman Christian Bougnard and I made what may have been a new route on the south face of Pisco Oeste. [Several routes have been made on this face, but it is hard to know where each one went. Since Bougnard made a previo...
Mt. Kinesava, The Millennium Falcon. The first three pitches of The Millennium Falcon were climbed by Calvin Herbert, Andrew Nichols, and Dave Littman. A couple of weeks later, Dave Littman and I finished the route (V+ 5.10 A2). The route starts 2...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HATNew Mexico, Sandia MountainsLeo Sandoual (17) and Lloyd Hriunak (18) were injured in a 60-foot fall from the practice cliffs on La Luz trail on August 6. They were demonstrating rappelling to friend...
Nanga Parbat, Illegal Bulgarian Ascent, 1993. In AAJ, 1994, pages 264-5, the report of a Bulgarian climb of Nanga Parbat was given. Apparently this was illegal. The Pakistani liaison officer with an Anglo-Polish expedition reported on his return f...
Grey Beard, North Face. On a one-day excursion on May 9, my brother Carl and I climbed this face. The route begins up the obvious central couloir to gain Grey Beard’s lower snowfield. Climbing up and left, we found a hidden gully which allowed acc...
Maria Parbat II, Ascent. A ten-member team Korean expedition led by Min Kyu-Chung operated in the area during the months of August and September. The high camp was established at 6200 meters, from which point the attempt was made. B.R. Cho and J.K...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Vimy MountainOn July 30, 1982, three young men were climbing the face of Vimy Mountain. They were unroped and poorly equipped and dressed. One man slipped ...