Kangchenjunga North Face Attempt. Nick Banks, Russell Brice, Bill King and I attempted the Japanese direct line on the north face without oxygen or Sherpa support on the mountain. After an 18-day approach, we established Base Camp at 16,500 feet o...
Schweizerland, Tupilak region, new routes. In July the five-woman team of Justine Curgenven, Di Gilbert, Rosie Golden, Catrin Thomas, and I skied into the 16th September Glacier in Schweizerland to climb alpine routes. Delayed by freight problems ...
A Deathful Ridge: A Novel of Everest. J.A. Wainwright. Mosaic Press: Ontario, Canada and Buffalo, New York, 1997. Hardback. 138 pages. $24.95If you are the least bit intrigued by the 1924 disappearance of George Leigh Mallory and Andrew “Sandy” Ir...
Peaks above Chiantar Glacier, Chitral. Alfred Linsbauer, leader, Peter von Gizycki, Wolfgang Greimal and Günter Plötz went by jeep from Gilgit to Yasin, where transport difficulties held them up until the beginning of August. They then crossed the...
Cerro Olivares. One of the highest unsealed summits of the world outside Asia, Cerro Olivares, fell to nine Chilean climbers from La Serena in early 1971, who climbed its southwest slopes. They were led by Claudio Canut. This peak had been claimed...
Mountaineering and Its Literature. W.R. Neate: The Mountaineers, 1980. 165 pages. Price $9.95.The purpose of the great majority of climbing books is self evident. We have guidebooks, biographies, expedition books and so forth, all with an obvious ...
Annapurna South Face Ascents and Tragedy. Our team was composed of Poles Jerzy Kukuczka, Artur Hajzer, Dr. Lech Komiszewski, Ryszard Warecki and me, Britons Phil Butler and Henry Todd, Germans Irene and Gerhard Schnass, Ecuadorians Ramiro Navarret...
Dhaulagiri II, Ascent and Tragedy. A four-man Korean expedition to the south face and east ridge of Dhaulagiri II was led by Lee Don-Yong. They established an Advance Base at 4900 meters and Camps I, II and III at 5400, 5800 and 6900 meters. Camp ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, SOME SOLO, SOME INADEQUATELY PROTECTED, ETCUtah, Various LocationsWe received some sketchy reports on several other accidents in Utah. They are summarized as follows.On March 2, Robert Moor (35) fell 100 feet to his death wh...
Aconcagua at First GlanceArthur B. Emmons, 3rdWHERE mountaineering is concerned, one effect of the present war has been to turn the attention of the climbing fraternity of both North and South America to the peaks, passes and glaciers of our own H...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The last four years have been active ones for the Harvard Mountaineering club, both in local climbing and in small expeditions. A new issue (Number 21) of the club’s journal, Harvard Mountaineering, has just been publi...
During our successful trip to Taghia in 2008 (AAJ 2009), we discovered an untouched wall in the Tadrarate Canyon. Situated between the classics La Rouge Berbère (560m of climbing, 14 pitches, 7b, Guillaume-Ravier-Thivel, 2002) and Sul filo della N...
Broad Peak, Northwest Ridge, Traverse of the North, Central and Main Summits. From July 13 to 18 Jerzy Kukuczka and I made a new route on the unclimbed northwest ridge of Broad Peak. This is only the second route till now on this mountain since it...
STRANDED, LOST, PARTY SEPARATED—DISAGREEMENTNew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonIn January of 1989, two climbers (30ish) completed the Pinnacle Gully route and bivouacked at the top of it. The next morning, the two parted ways because they were not get...
Shuntavi ButteWilliam MarchThe TRIP BEGAN uneventfully until we collided with a large skunk while travelling west on Highway I-70 from Denver. The cloying stench accompanied us all the way to Zion National Park. Our plan was to climb the north fac...
SLIP ON ROCK – FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, CAM PULLED OUT, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNorth Carolina, Jackson County, Gray's RidgeChris Wilcox (35) and Scott Philyaw (52), both experienced climbers, had busy home and work lives th...
The Learning ProcessLiving the dreamIan Parnell, EnglandThe year 2000 was my chance to live the dream, to quit my job and head to the hills. In Britain, we have what I believe is the finest grant funding system for mountaineering in the world. The...
The Sandstone Towers of Tigray. The province of Tigray, in northern Ethiopia, is a region of sandstone mountains and high desert; it has been compared to Arizona. It may seem an unlikely place to go climbing. Apart from being close to the troubled...
Traleika Glacier area, Mount McKinley Range. The Parachute Brigade Alaska Expedition, consisting of Captain W. M. M. Deacock, second-in- command and meteorologist, Captain J. D. Kinloch, doctor; Lieutenant Ord Pritchard, photographer, with Captain...
Das Buch von Nanga Parbat: Die Geschichte seiner Besteigung 1895-1953, by G. O. Dyhrenfurth. 197 pages, with 133 photographs, 2 maps. Munchen: Nymphenburger Verlagshandlung, 1954. Price, D. M. 6.80.The ascent of Nanga Parbat, July 3, 1953, was giv...