Everest: The History of the Himalayan Giant. Roberto Mantovani. Introduction by Kurt Diemberger. Mountaineers Books: Seattle, 1997. 143 pages. Hardback, large format, with numerous historical images and color photographs. $35.00If you enjoyed Walt...
Buni Zom Group. Another Austrian expedition was led by Johann Hofer and composed of Rudolf Ludwig and Andreas Schlick. After traveling from Chitral to Maroi by jeep, they took four days to Rahman in the Laspur valley and another day and a half up ...
Thamserku Attempt. A Spanish expedition was led by José Luis Fernández. The three other members, José Manuel González, Srta Azucena López and Miguel Angel Rodríguez, got to 6300 meters on the new route they were attempting, the west face, on Octob...
Nevado Chugllaraju, west face. American Thai Verzone and Australian David Clinton climbed a new route on Nevado Chugllaraju’s west face. Their route angles up and right, atop a prominent hanging glacier from the lower left side of the face on 45-6...
Yosemite Climbs. George Meyers. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1982. 260 pages, black and white photographs, route diagrams, maps. $16.95.Friends of Yosemite Valley relax! No longer do you have to guard your worn and tom topos against thieves or grudgi...
Cerro Panchote. The first winter ascent of Cerro Panchote, a triple-summited glaciated peak, occurred in September 2000, reports the Spanish magazine Desnivel. The peak was climbed in a three-day round-trip from the coast by Sergio Camacho and a p...
Kalindi. Kalindi (19,882 feet) was climbed on June 3 by B.W. Wagle, K.G. Sambus and Sherpas Dorje and Furi. Ganga Singh Apte and Dr. G.R. Patwardhan scaled two unnamed nearby peaks (18,500 and 18,000 feet) on June 1 and 4 respectively. Base Camp w...
Fitz Roy, Solo and In Winter. Three Japanese, Yasushi Yamanoi, Mitsuhiru Iwata and Kenji Iwata, had hoped to climb Fitz Roy in winter. The Iwata brothers wanted to climb the 1968 American route on the southwest buttress and Yamanoi hoped to do the...
K7, First Ascent. After many previous unsuccessful expeditions, a Japanese expedition led by Toichiro Nagata finally managed to climb the peak by its southwest ridge with a two-month siege, 6500 meters of rope and 450 bolt or piton placements. Bas...
Patagonian Icecap, north to south unsupported traverse. Between late August and early October 2003 Swiss Thomas Ulrich and Norwegian Borge Ousland traversed, unsupported, the bulk of the Southern Patagonian Icecap. Ousland is well known for being ...
Canadian Rockies. A party of six from Washington, D. C., including Don Hubbard and Sterling Hendricks, made first ascents of the four mountains on the ridge between the Lyell Ice Field and Bush Mountain. These were Icefall Peak of Bush Mountain (1...
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face. The northeast face of Huascarán Norte was first climbed by an expedition composed of Maurice Barrard, leader, Marceau Agier, Nicole Chesnais, Dr. Philippe Courtin, Lionel Desrivières, Alain Durin, Dr. Pierre Helard...
Nanga Parbat and Rakaposhi Attempts. A Japanese expedition led by Seishi Wada failed to climb the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. They had previously failed on Rakaposhi. Details are missing.
Clogwyn du’r Arddu: The Black Cliff, by Peter Crew, Jack Soper, Ken Wilson. London: Kaye and Ward, 1971, 158 pages, 111 photos.Climbing literature is replete with biographies of famous climbers, but this volume is the first biography of a cliff.Cl...
Washington—Cascade Mts., Wilmon Spires: Robert V. Kasper (20) a member of the Mountaineers was on a scheduled club climb on the Wilmon Spires on 30 August 1953 when a large rock, apparently dislodged by the leader of his rope, struck him a glancin...
Colorado, El Dorado Springs Canyon. On 24 November Mark Schemmer (18) was rappelling off the “Rosy Crucification” at dusk when his hammer became slightly tangled in his rappel rope, after having already cleared a rope tangling problem. His rappel ...
Everest Winter Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Tsuneo Hasegawa attempted to make a winter ascent of Mount Everest by a route on the eastern end of the north face. It reached 8000 meters on December 26 but had to give up.Elizabeth Hawley
West Quarter Dome, Quarter Pounder. Urmas Franosch and I had originally intended to free climb the North Face route on West Quarter Dome, but when we arrived at the face we found that route obliterated by rockfall, so we opted for a series of flak...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. The members of our expedition were Peter Karla, leader, Gerhard Czipri, Wolfram Cosmus and I. Our ten-day approach march got us to Base Camp on June 17. On the 19th, we all climbed to Camp I at 5850 meters on Gasherbrum I. O...
Lampak I and II, ascents. A 10-member team from the Punjab Police, led by PM Das, climbed both Lampak peaks, which lie south of the Girthi Ganga in the Eastern Garhwal. The expedition established base camp at 4,700m in the Kala Kharak to the west ...