Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Urdok I and Hidden Peak

Urdok I and Hidden Peak. The Austrian Karakoram Expedition was made up of the German Dr. Karl Hub and Austrians Dr. Helmut Preve- del, Herbert Zefferer, Robert Schauer, my wife Leselotte and me as leader. Though we had originally headed for Baltor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Various Himalayan Climbs

Various Himalayan Climbs. Dr. Herbert Tichy spent over half a year in 1959 in the Himalaya, where he climbed no less than seven unnamed peaks that averaged 23,000 feet. He visited the Japanese in their camp in the Langtang Himal in Nepal. He was f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Rooster Comb, Southwest Face of South Peak

Rooster Comb, Southwest Face of South Peak. On July 13 and 14 Dave Holsworth and I climbed the southwest face of the south peak of the Rooster Comb. We used the southern approach to Huntington, described in the 1972 south-ridge attempt (A.A.J., 19...


Accident Tables ANAM
Table I

YearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths1947 15111948 28151949 1791950 3081951 1841952 35141953 25121954 3181955 3461956 408


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Well's Peak, Lower Half of East Face, December's Children

Wells Peak, lower half of East Face, December’s Children. This route on Wells Peak, in the Wheeler Crest area, was climbed in December by James Wilson and me. It follows the only crack system just right of the center of the face. The fourth pitch ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Shiva Shankar West, West Face

Shiva Shankar West, west face. The Pangi straddles the Himachal Pradesh–Jammu and Kashmir borders and is isolated for more than seven months of the year. The road into the area crosses 4,000m passes and is a difficult and adventurous journey even ...

| Published N/A


Accident Reports ANAM
Connecticut, West Rock

Connecticut, West Rock—On June 1 Leo Arsenault (16), Peter Davis (18), Edw. Goderre (16) and Marvin Moore (15) went to West Rock near New Haven, Conn. Davis remained at the foot of the Rock to direct and advise. Arsenault and the other two descend...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall, Ski-Mountaineering – Alaska, Mt. McKinley

FALL, SKI-MOUNTAINEERING—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. While skiing down the Kahiltna Glacier after a carry to the 10,000 foot level, Tokehiro Miyano (32), of the Kofu Nannei Alpine Club, hit a bump and somersaulted while falling. He fractured his left le...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Pisco

Pisco. The Frenchmen C. Viennot and Mlle H. Lecumberri with the Peruvian Felipe Mautino climbed Pisco by the normal route on August 18. Also Serpinet climbed this peak with Donato SolanoCésar Morales Arnao, Club Andino Peruano


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Tien Shan, Kashkar, First Ascent and Traverse

Kashkar, first ascent and traverse. In July a team from Moscow made the first ascent of 6,435m Kashkar (aka Koshkar or Kochkar Bashi), an isolated massif lying in the rarely visited Chinese Tien Shan ca 20km due south of Pobeda. The peak is though...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Canwell Glacier, Alaska Range

Canwell Glacier, Alaska Range. During the late spring and through the summer of 1968 members of the Alaska Alpine Club assisted by many others carried in and built the second of a series of huts planned in the Delta Mountains of the eastern Alaska...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay-Lowering, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Heart Creek, Kananaskis Country

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY-LOWERINGAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Heart Creek, Kananaskis CountryOn July 18, M. P. was climbing at the Heart Creek sport climbing area when he was lowered off the end of his rope by his belayer, resulting in a six-me...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal, Bhagirathi IV Attempt

Bhagirathi IV Attempt. It was reported that Steve Quinlan went to attempt the unclimbed west face of Bhagirathi IV, but problems with his liaison officer forced his team to descend from low on the attempt. (The Mountain Yodel 5)


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California - Sierra Nevada, Kearsarge Pinnacle No. 6, West Face

Kearsarge Pinnacle No. 6, West Face. On July 4, Liesl Day and I climbed what we believe to be a first ascent of the west face of Kearsarge Pinnacle No. 6. From the notch between Pinnacle No. 6 and No. 7 traverse east into a gully and climb over an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face and Ridge

Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face and Ridge. During the end of July and the first days of August Steve Brewer and I made the second ascent of the French route of 1972 on the northeast face and ridge of Huascarán Norte. There was considerable evidenc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Nanda Devi, Second Ascent

Nanda Devi, Second Ascent. American climbers will be particularly interested in the second ascent of Nanda Devi (25,645 feet), since it was first climbed in 1936 by a joint British and American expedition. They will also be happy to note that one ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Mount Shuksan, Direct West Face

Mount Shnksan, Direct West Face. On Saturday, August 26, Don Keller, Mike Forney, Erich Zahn and I found ourselves at Lake Ann surrounded by a large party getting ready for the summit climb the next day. We had come with the idea of climbing from ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers Climbs Peru, Cordillera Blanca

During July, John Ebert and I led a large group to the Quebrada Honda. Chaco (17,454 feet) was climbed by 42 of the 55 participants between July 13 and 24. A determined attempt on Chinchey failed. Dean Smith and Bob Wilson climbed Tocllaraju (19,7...

| Published 1978 | Author James Ebert


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Tolima

The ascent of Tolima, 18,400 ft., in Colombia, was made on Dec. 10, 1926, by Hans Huber, of Bogatá, accompanied by two German and three Colombian friends. (Andina, Vol. VIII, No. 5, p. 122.) They reported no trace of the first ascent of Jan. 18, 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind Rivers, Pingora, West Face

Pingora, West Face. On July 21 Fred Beckey, Court Richards and I left camp at Lonesome Lake for the west face of Pingora. Just before reaching Cirque Lake, we turned north and ascended to the col between Tiger and Pingora. From here we climbed up ...