Twenty years ago H. Adams Carter answered his doorbell and ushered me into his home office, where he edited the American Alpine Journal. The files were stacked high, boxes brimmed over with note cards and correspondence, and his well-worn typewrit...
San Juan, Cordillera Blanca. On June 4 Thomas McCormack and Rodman L. Tidrick arrived in Lima nine days ahead of Nick Clinch and Virgil Day to buy all the food and part of the equipment to avoid shipping costs and Peruvian customs difficulties. Sh...
Fersmana Glacier, PikAnin, north face, Bloody Aurikelj and Waterfull; Pik Zastava, north face, FAT Couloir Direct; Fers III, southwest face (not to summit); Pik Plaza, west couloir and north ridge; Pik Neizvestniy, east summit, northeast ridge (se...
HERMAN HOERLIN1903-1983Dr. Hoerlin was one of the leading European climbers during the late 1920s and 1930s. With Erwin Schneider, he made many notable first winter ascents in the Alps, for example that of the Peuterey Ridge of Mount Blanc. In tho...
Nanga Parbat. Finally after 7 unsuccessful expeditions and 31 deaths, 14 of them sahibs and 17 porters, Nanga Parbat has been climbed. At seven o’clock in the evening of 3 July 1953 the 29-year-old Austrian, Hermann Buhl, member of the “German-Aus...
The main mountaineering development of the Fanskiy Mountains took place in the 1970s and early ’80s. After that, attention turned to the newly discovered areas of Karavshin and Laylak. It appeared that all good lines in the Fanskiy had been climbe...
1951-871959-8719881988USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock25283099912Snow1443253481Ice1145095River12300Unknown18600Ascent or DescentAscent222331511212Descent1471225403Unknown2314243Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock1625153714Slip on snow or ice581116154Fall...
OVER the past 447 years all sorts of characters have sailed below the intriguing mountains of the Fuegian Archipelago and it is surprising that until recently nobody has climbed in them. The sea approach to these ranges has always been rough, the ...
The Red Snows, by Sir John Hunt and Christopher Brasher. London: Hutchinson and Co., Ltd., 1960. 176 pages, ill. Price 25 s.Here is a book which should be read by everyone interested in visiting the Caucasus for serious mountaineering. The princip...
Masherbrum II. Masherbrum II (c. 7200 meters, 23,622 feet) had previously been climbed only once, by Italians in 1988 on the southeast ridge. After approaching from Hushe, we established Base Camp on August 31 at the junction of the Bolux and Mash...
AAC, Alaska Section. The year began in February with an ice-climbing seminar in Eagle River Valley in which more than 35 climbers participated and AAC members provided on-site instruction and tips on how to master steep ice. The outing, organized ...
Alpinistes d’Autrefois : Le Major Roger et son barometre, by Claire-Eliane Engel. 8 vo. ; pp. 212, with eight illustrations. Neuchatel and Paris: Attinger, 1935.Alexandre Roger was born at Geneva in 1780 and lived until 1867, spending most of his ...
Garumbar Glacier, UyumrungSar, second ascent. Four friends and I aimed to explore the Garumbar Glacier, the first tributary to the south of the main Hispar Glacier. We hadn’t seen any pictures of this valley, nor had any information, and were curi...
Kluane National Park Reserve Mountaineering Summary, 1995. During the spring and summer of 1995 there were 40 mountaineering expeditions, comprising 169 people who ventured into the St. Elias Mountains of Kluane. As is often the case, April and ea...
LIGHTNING, LATE START, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn June 28, 1992, at 2100, Glenn R. McDonald (31) was struck and killed by lightning near the summit of Hallett Peak after ascending Hallett Chimney II (5.6). M...
Muir Wall—El CapitanYvon ChouinardJust beyond this glorious flood the El Capitan Rock, regarded by many as the most sublime feature of the valley, is seen through the pine groves, standing forward beyond the general line of the wall in most imposi...
The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska swelled to over 650 members in 2000. The club offered 34 hiking and climbing trips and over 20 different training courses to its members during the past year. The vast majority o...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, FAILURE TO MAINTAIN CONTROL OF ROPE, UNFAMILIAR WITH DEVICE, NO BACK-UP, FATIGUENevada, Red Rock Canyon NCA, Tunnel VisionOn February 4, a male climber had been rope soloing the 5.9 bolted first pitch variation to Tun...
Gangotri, Vasuki Parvat, west face, attempt. Paul Ramsden and I were turned back high on this year’s objective, rarely climbed 6,792m Vasuki Parvat in the Indian Gangotri. Poor weather and cold foiled our attempt on an aesthetic line up a steep mi...
Blackburn and Regal, Wrangell Range. The Doshisha University Expedition was led by Masao Nishihara and was composed of Yasuichi Kitamura, Ryoichi Hasegawa, Tohoru Araki, Yasuo Kawai, Ro Matsumoto, Masao Tanaka and Shinichi Naito. On July 8 they we...