MULTIPLE BEE STINGS California, Yosemite ValleyEarly in October, I was on the second belay ledge of a three pitch climb called “The Caverns” in Yosemite Valley’s Five Open Books area. My friend, Robin Supplee, was following up, cleaning the protec...
FALL ON ROCK, POOR PRACTICE – HOOKED FINGERS THROUGH BOLT RINGColorado, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, Rethinking the EthicsRethinking the Ethics (5.10a) is a 45-foot, four-bolt sport climb located on the Ripple Wall. The climb culminates at a two-bo...
Fisher Towers. Betsi McKittrick, Jimmy Dunn and Peter Banfield climbed with a top rope Little Hoodoo (5.9+), near the Cobra Hoodoo. The Tapeworm on the south face of Echo Tower was climbed by Brian Warshaw and Brad Jarrett (5.8, A3, 6 pitches).Eri...
INADEQUATE CLOTHING—ASSUMPTION REGARDING WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanVinante Donato (33), Sergio Valentini (33), and Walter del Fre (33)—all from Italy, set out to climb El Capitan on May 15, 1991.They spent their first night on ...
Chongra Attempt. A four-man British team led by Thomas Middleton unsuccessfully attempted Chongra (6830 meters, 22,376 feet).
Sawtooth Ridge, Orangesmith. Steve Must and I climbed a new ten-pitch route north of Blacksmith Peak, one we dubbed Orangesmith (II-III 5.8). The lower pitches were on the edge of an unmistakable orange wall just below Glacier Lake, then the route...
ROCKFALL, BAD LUCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Banff Area, Cascade FallsTwo male climbers, (26 and 27) arrived from France in February, 1993, for an ice-climbing holiday. On their first day in the area, they chose Cascade Falls, a popular grade- thre...
Sumeru Parbat Attempt, South Ridge, 1989. Geoffrey Degens, Alan King, Richard Sullivan and I made the first ascent of the south ridge of Sumeru Parbat (6331 meters, 20,770 feet) in September 1989 but had to quit 400 feet below the summit because o...
Losar Valley, Pt 6,000m, (first?) ascent and Dawa Kangri, second ascent. A 10-member team from Kolkatta led by Ujjal Ray climbed in Spiti’s Losar valley. They first climbed an unnamed peak of 6,000m. The summit was reached on August 28 by Rajan Ai...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. A newly revived expedition fund enabled the DMC to support two expeditions in the summer of 1973. One of these climbed the southeast ridge of Mount Hunter in Alaska, while the other spent a very productive three week...
P 6180, Mustang Himal and Source of the Kali Gandaki. Austrian Helmut Burisch and I followed up the Kali Gandaki to where it forks near the Tibetan border. The bigger branch flowed from the northwest from the heart of the Mustang Himal. It obvious...
The Siege of Nanga Parbat, by Paul Bauer. London: RupertHart-Davis, 1956. 211 pages; 23 photographs; 2 maps. Price 25 s. Paul Bauer, famous for his climbs on Kangchenjunga, was also closely connected with Nanga Parbat. He considered it as a climbi...
HAPE–EXACERBATED BY PRE-EXISTING CHEST COLDWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons RouteOn July 11 at 0930, Mount Rainier National Park received a distress call from three climbers high (13,500-foot level) on the Emmons Route. One of the climbers (30) w...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. The Rocky Mountain Section is the largest Section in the Club, both in terms of geography covered (Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico) and number of members. Its members are among the most active...
K2, north face attempt, north ridge ascent. After abandoning their dreams of an alpine-style new route on the north face of K2 because of severe weather and poor climbing conditions, Serguey Samoilov and Denis Urubko succeeded on the rarely climbe...
Green River Area, The Warlock, Free Ascent. This area is outside of Canyonlands National Park but approached via the Horsethief Trail road. In October, 1997, Marco Cornacchione and Bret Ruckman climbed the first free ascent of Dude, That’s Not Fun...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESMassachusetts, Chapelbrook Reservation, Chapel LedgesOn August 10, Pam Chavis (25) fell 75 feet from Chapel Ledges, where she was attempting her first free-solo climb. She had reached for a handho...
Asgard and Friya, Baffin Island. Mike Pelchat, Jeff Tirey, Jack Corbin and I flew to Pangnirtung on April 22. By April 26, Base Camp was established at the intersection of the Caribou and Kings Highway Glaciers. The Swiss Route on Mount Asgard was...
Patterson Bluff, Western Slope, Various Activity. Located just down the road from the Courtright Reservoir area, Patterson has long been considered a hidden jewel, with a hot, brushy, snake-infested approach to the base from below far too heinous ...
EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Mt. ShastaOn August 15, 1978, Martin Thomas (67) was reported missing on Mt. Shasta. On August 11, he had been left at the 13,000 foot level to climb alone to the top by a Sierra Club leade...