The Climb up to Hell, by Jack Olsen. New York: Harper and Row 1962. 212 pages, ills., Price $4.95.This is a well written account of the 1957 tragedy on the Eiger. In early August two parties set out independently to climb the north wall. Overtaken...
Miscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons InvolvedTerrain1951-611959-611961U.S.CAN.U.S.CAN.Rock 3033561Snow 19122260River 1010Unknown 0000Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent 21615491Descent2429280Unknown 36160Im...
Cordillera Vilcanota. When William Whelen and I left New Zealand our plan was to join the 1970 New Zealand Andean Expedition climbing on the eastern side of the Cordillera Blanca. The earthquake prevented our making the planned rendezvous. Thanks ...
Grand Teton, The Golden Pillar and other new Teton free climbs. On July 11 Hans Johnstone and I opened a classic, flashable, hard crack line (V 5.12-) on the golden pillar of overhanging rock west of the normal North Face route on the Grand Teton....
LOOSE ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 11, 1981, Shift Supervisor John Daley received a report from climber Fred East that he had heard cries for help on El Capitan. East had been at the base of El Capita...
Oregon, Saddle Mountain. On 2 August Dennis Bean, John Neuschwan- ger, and Bob Kennedy started a climb of Saddle Mountain, a rock-buttress in Oregon’s Coast Range (elev. 3282'). They chose to climb the series of cliffs to the left, or west of the ...
SLIP ON SNOW, DESCENDING UNROPED, PULMONARY EDEMA, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 10, 1983, the nine-person Republic of China–Taiwan expedition flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on Mount McKinley. The expedition plann...
Dhaulagiri VI. The Kansai Mountaineering Club sent an expedition to the western Dhaulagiri range in the pre-monsoon season. Our original plan was to aim from the southwest at Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 feet) via Dhaulagiri VI (24,002 feet). Unexpected ...
Peruvian Ascents. A number of peaks were climbed by Peruvians and by people living in Peru during the past year. The following were first ascents: Yanasinga Central (17,782 feet) on April 29 by Alberto Canaval; Diente del Yanasinga (17,061 feet) o...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. No other club is so favorably situated with respect to the mountains as are we, with the Chugach Range right in our back yard and the Aleutian, Alaska, Talkeetna, and Kenai Ranges all within sight. While our weather ...
DEAN LANGMUIR1886 ¦ 1950Dean Langmuir, who joined the Club in 1922, died on 8 January 1950. A native New Yorker who spent most of his life in the city, he had shown his love of the outdoors and the sport of mountaineering even before his graduatio...
Coast Range B.C./AK, first complete ski traverse. From Feb. 2 to July 17, 2001, we traversed the spine of the Coast Range Mountains from Vancouver, B.C., to Skagway, Alaska. The trip was 2,015 km. in length, and was done primarily on skis.The Coas...
Italiani sulle montagne del mondo* by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Capelli Editore, 1967. 137 photos, 36 maps. Price: L. 12,000.Signor Fantin is an Italian mountaineer who has traveled in all five continents, not only climbing, but also collecting infor...
Climbing from the Baird Glacier’s unnamed south arm (“Burkett Glacier” to climbers) in June, Max Hasson and Jens Holsten made several impressive ascents. They made a free ascent of Burkett Needle (ca 8,500') via a new variation (5.10+) to the 2,50...
CHARLES STACY FRENCH 1907-1995Charles Stacy French, American Alpine Club member since 1937, and former Director of the Carnegie Institution’s Department of Plant Physiology and Professor of Biology at Stanford University, died October 13 at the ag...
FALL ON SNOW, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mount WhitneyAndrew Richey (24) and his partner were attempting to climb the East Face of Mt.Whitney, but got off route and were in a couloir to the south of the route. When it...
Mt. Stephen, Great Western. Great Western lies on the north face of Mt. Stephen (3,199m) in Yoho National Park, by the town of Field. The line follows a series of mixed gullies, ice runnels, and hanging ice pillars. The ice pillars do not always f...
JEAN JUGE1908-1978Last August American mountaineers learned that Professor Jean Juge of Geneva, the man who for years had been the principal driving force behind the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme, had died on the flanks of the ...
Chola Shan, Slovenian Activity. During the UIAA International Training Camp, we climbed three new routes on four new peaks between 5000 and 6000 meters. On the north face of Slovenian Peak (5500m), Miha Manence, Matej Brjnik, and I climbed the new...
Papsura, Kulu. Nearly thirty years ago Colonel J. O. M. Roberts made one of his characteristic sallies to the head of the Tos Nullah, a tributary valley of the great Parbati system, and made the first ascent, among others, of White Sail on the nor...