Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide, 2nd edition, 624 pages, photos and maps, $40.00; Joshua Tree Sport Climbs, 100 pages, $12.95. Both by Randy Vogel, 1992, Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO.Randy Vogel’s first (1986) edition included over 1300 routes,...
Surapatilla, Vinohurara, Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. The Ober-bayerische Anden Expedition climbed from June 4 to 17. They ascended many of the summits rising from the glaciers on the northern rim of the Hichukhota valley. Two peaks, Surapatill...
Mt. McKinley, Slovak Route, Second Ascent. Kevin Mahoney and I flew into the Alaska Range to climb for the month of May. We arrived on May 4 and headed up the West Buttress, intending to acclimatize at 14,000 feet for a few days. After a few cold ...
FALL ON SNOWWyoming, TetonsOn July 24, Dick Attridge was descending from the lower saddle in Garret Canyon when he slipped on the snow. He slid into rocks after sliding approximately 100 feet on the snow. Mr. Attridge sprained his right ankle in t...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, MISCOMMUNICATIONWashington, Icicle Creek, Eight Mile ButtressOn Sunday, April 16, Andy Tonning was participating in a rock climbing field trip as a student in the Seattle Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing Course. He was asc...
Shisha Pangma. Our commercial expedition organized by Himalayan Kingdoms and led by me had 12 clients and three guides. Heavy snowfall dogged progress in September and high winds stopped summit attempts in October. The first summit attempt on Octo...
“Islet in the Sky,” Canyonlands National Park, 1976. This slender needle can be located on the large park topo map in the Island in the Sky area next to a peninsula of rock near Muffin Butte. This fine route follows thin lost-arrow cracks on the n...
Manaslu, First Tibetan Ascent. On May 3 and 4 a band of eight strong Tibetans (led by Samdruk) who spend their lives on the high Tibetan Plateau needed no artificial oxygen at all to succeed in the first attempt on Manaslu by Tibetans or any other...
Power Dome, Alternative Energy. In 1984, Val Licon and I climbed a five-pitch route on the face between Helm’s Deep and Solar Energy. After face climbing to the right side of a flake, we climbed to the left side and followed a white dike up and le...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Baxter s Pinnacle. On 15 August Herb Swedlund, Bob Fenichel, Charles Joyce, Mike Edesess, and Peter Keller were descending in that order through the loose gully to the west of Baxter’s Pinnacle. Although Swedlun...
Central Utah Ice Climbs. Several new ice climbs of high quality were done in January and February of 1987. These were located in Straight Creek Canyon, near Orangeville. Easy access via a maintained road and steep ice in a sandstone setting are in...
Touchstone Wall, first free ascent. The free climbing season in Zion started off with a bang, as Rob Pizem and I freed the last holdout of the trinity of classic Zion big walls. Moonlight Buttress fell in 1992, Spaceshot in 2005, and finally the T...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Roche à PerdrixOn October 26, at 0700 J.H. (28) and M.L. (42) set out to climb the Diagonal Route on the west face of Roche à Perdrix. At 1100, they reached the summit and began a rappel down the Chimney ...
FRANK G. WELLS1932-1994Frank G. Wells was tragically killed on April 3, 1994 in a helicopter crash in the Ruby Mountains of Nevada. In the same accident, the well known female climber Beverly Johnson, Yosemite climber Paul Scannell and the pilot D...
Ama Dablam, Winter Ascent. A South Korean expedition composed of three climbers made a remarkably rapid winter ascent of Ama Dablam. They were away from Kathmandu for only 15 days! They used no Sherpas. Three camps were established on the south ri...
Southeast Section. Despite geographic and demographic obstacles, 2007 witnessed a significant renaissance in AAC activity in the Southeast Section. Historically, development of a sense of AAC community within the Southeast has proven difficult. Th...
Ama Dablam, Southwest Ridge. An international expedition was led by Renato Moro with the help of two guides Franco Girodo and me, who fixed rope on the route. In October the first climbers could not succeed because of very bad weather. Fortunately...
FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS–HANDHOLD CAME OFF, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Wind River Range, Jackson PeakOn August 11 about 1100, Bev Boynton (51) and David Moore of Jackson, WY, were finishing the final pitch on the South Buttress of Jackson Peak in the Wind ...
Antarctic Peninsula, Various Activity. In January, 1999, an Australian expedition aboard the yacht Tiama accomplished some of the most notable climbing in the Antarctic Peninsula in a number of years. Kieran Lawton, Julie Styles, Geoff Moore, Roby...
Meeting the Mammals, by Victor H. Cahalane. 8 vo., ix + 133 pages, with 52 illustrations from drawings. New York: The Macmillan Co., 1943. Price $1.75.Those interested in wild life will find this one of the most useful and interesting books that h...