Shisha Pangma Rescue, Ascent to Central Summit and New Route. Frenchmen Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Dominique Caillat were among the many expeditions in the post-monsoon on Shisha Pangma. After a medical problem at the start, Lafaille recovered a...
Towers in Canyonlands National Park. On a Wingate formation at the head of Taylor Canyon, 250 feet from Moses, Ron Olevsky made the first ascent of Traracian Mare solo (III, 5.6, A3). He also made the first ascent (5.7) of the largest dome north o...
Manaslu, Ascent. After her Pumori and Lhotse ascents (see below), Chantai Mauduit flew by helicopter to the foot of Manaslu and with one Sherpa, Ang Tshering, attacked her third Himalayan mountain of the season, here too following the standard rou...
In mid October Dick Leversee and I climbed an unnamed but prominent pyramidal dome north of Upper Hamilton Lake in the Sequoia backcountry. Avoiding drilling as much as possible, we picked a line up a series of flakes and cracks on the nearly feat...
On August 10, Paul Ramer and I were climbing in separate parties on the practice cliffs near Hidden Falls in Cascade Canyon. Ramer, standing on a talus slope about 200 feet below me, wore an aluminum hard hat, while my helmet was a mesh-reinforced...
Canyonlands National Park. A free climbing permit is now required in both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Druid Arch's south leg, east side, was climbed solo on February 7 and 8 by Paul Midkiff. This arch is in the Needles district of the p...
Thunderbird Wall, first free ascent. Michael Anderson and Rob Pizem made the first free ascent, with variations, of one of Zion’s biggest routes, the Thunderbird Wall (16 pitches, VI 5.13- R). Both climbers led or followed every pitch free over Ma...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Banff National Park, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake Crag, Scared PeachesOn October 19, D.W. (24) was leading Scared Peaches, a 5.12a mixed-gear route on the Air Voyage Wall at the Back of the Lake Crag ar...
JILL CLAGGETT1957-1994Jill Claggett was fatally injured in a climbing accident in Prescott, Arizona on October 11. She fell a little before noon while leading a climb in the Granite Dells. Only about 20 feet up when she fell, her last piece of pro...
Ama Dablam. A guided French expedition of thirteen climbers was led by Raymond Renaud. A total of ten climbers and two Sherpas went to the summit via the south ridge in five successive days, November 5 to 9. The leader reached the summit on each d...
Blue Ridge Section. Section events in 2007 included a number of slideshows held at the Rhodeside Tavern in Arlington, Virginia. Dimitry Shapovalov gave two very interesting talks about climbing in Russia and Central Asia, with expeditions to the P...
Tawoche Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1986. This joint expedition was led by Korean Oh In-Hwan. They climbed the southeast face to the southeast ridge, the same route as that of the Japanese in the spring of 1985. They were really two separate teams....
FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Table MountainOn August 8, Don Rassler reported that his climbing partner, Ben Goodwin (22), had fallen about 10-20 feet while down-climbing the first pitch of Heartbreak Ridge on Table Mountain arou...
Antarctica, Overview of Mountaineering Objectives. In an article that appears earlier in this journal, Antarctic climbing chronologist Damien Gildea offers up an overview of mountaineering objectives that updates and complements the excellent arti...
The Tatra Mountains, by V. A. Firsoff, 8 vo.; 128 pages, with 65 illustrations from photographs and a sketch-map. London: Lindsay Drummond, 1942. Price 10/6.This is the first book in the English language dealing with the Tatra, the alpine portion ...
We are well aware that this section could not exist without the help of many other than the Editorial Board. We are very grateful to all those who have assisted us. It is impossible to mention all who have done so much, but we do wish to thank esp...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Colorado, Fern CanyonOn March 24, 1986, two climbers were down-climbing a mid fifth class section of Seal Rock in the Fern Canyon area of Bouder when one slipped and fell. Neither was roped at the time. The victim wa...
Disteghil Sar South, Disteghil Sar East and Yazghil Dome North. My 14th expedition set off from Nagar on July 3 with 81 porters. We had to pay the porters 90 rupees (about $7) per day plus food and clothing. They moved very slowly. Instead of two-...
Mexico: (1) Ixtaccihuatl (17,743 ft.). On 4 November 1950 rescue brigades found one man dead and two other persons injured among a group of ten mountain climbers (members of the Club Alpino), who were climbing to make arrangements for a Mass to be...
Aguja Saint Exupéry, South Buttress, Fitz Roy Region. After the climbs in the Paine Towers, on December 6 Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz and I camped on the glacier right below the Aguja Saint Exupéry. We intended to climb the Metzeltin-Buscaini r...