AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE PREPARATION AND ROUTE SELECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaThe morning of September 4, 1990, dawned with pristine clarity in the Columbia Icefields area. R.D. and J.E., both of Salt Lake City, Utah, had just arri...
P 5753, Trango Towers. A Japanese expedition led by Reiji Nonaka ascended P 5753 (18,875 feet). Also on the expedition were the leader’s wife Yukiko, Toshikazu Fujita, Takao Sasaki and Masahiro Oto. They climbed 63 pitches on the east face and sou...
Himachal PradeshKhangla Tarbo I, First Ascent. An Irish expedition led by 65-year-old Patrick O’Leary, whois one of the prime explorers of the Spiti Himalaya, made the first ascent of Kangla Tarbo I (6315m), which had remained a major unclimbed pe...
Karrat Isfjord, West Greenland. An expedition of the Deggendorf Section of the German Alpine Club, led by Georg Leitl, climbed north of Umanak from June 29 to July 31 and made 12 first ascents.
JOHN C. CASE1892-1983One night over forty years ago a tall figure walked into the firelight where my bride and I were honeymooning in the Tetons saying “Any room around the fire for an old man?” Thus began a friendship which brought John very clos...
Annapurna, South Face Ascent and Tragedy. The 13th ill-fated climber in Nepal in the post-monsoon season was a Belgian, who died in the season’s most dramatic death, having disappeared with no final trace. Gabriel Denamur was a member of one of tw...
JULIE A. INWOOD1939-1985Julie, like many of us who came from Colorado, was virtually brought up in the mountains. And certainly, in her case, enthusiasm for the mountains was in every way matched by mountaineering competence.Having only recently j...
The Untrodden Andes, by C. G. Egeler and T. de Booy. Foreword by Sir Edmund Hillary. Translated from the Dutch by W. E. James. 203 pages, 51 photographs, 9 maps and sketches. London: Faber and Faber Ltd., 1954. Price, 25 s.Egeler and de Booy have ...
Shartse. This expedition, composed of Gerhard Lenser, leader, Dr. Hermann Warth, Dr. Klaus Peter Bach, Germans, and me, an Austrian, had as its original goal the ascent of Lhotse (27,890 feet) by a new route from the Khumbu side. Protests were mad...
Gemmigela II (Twin II) Ascent and Tragedy. From Lachen to Base Camp at Green Lake (4930 meters), it was a strenuous five days of trekking up and down mountain paths. We had to cross dangerous rapids by using log bridges with ropes stretched betwee...
Der dritte Pol, by G. O. Dyhrenfurth. Munich: Nymphenburger Verlag, 1960. 263 pages, 35 ills., 16 maps, 4 sketches, 6 profiles. Price D.M. 28. To be placed beside the standard Himalayan series edited by Marcel Kurz is the reedition of Professor Dy...
Vince Anderson and I had a tough go of it in the Hispar region of Pakistan, mostly due to bad weather. However, we still managed to get to within 300m of the summit of Khunyang Chhish East, which at 7,400m is one of the highest unclimbed peaks i...
The Needles, Magician Needle, Magic Dragon. In January Neil Carlos and I climbed this 13-pitch route. The first half of the route ascends directly up the spine of the huge buttress (Trojan Horse) which ends halfway up the rock. The long, unprotect...
Dhaulagiri Tragedy. On October 6, the well-known New Zealander Gary Ball died from high-altitude sickness on Dhaulagiri. He was 40 years old. He and Robert Hall led several commercial expedition to the Himalaya and elsewhere. These two were the fi...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE, FAILED TO THREAD ROPE THROUGH ANCHORSKentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir ValleyA male climber (31) fell from the top anchors of Rat Stew (5.10a). He landed two feet from his belayer after free falling approximately 75 feet....
Kang Karpo Attempt. Tom Hornbein, Robert Hornbein, Robin Houston, Brian Okonek, Robert Brown Schoene and I attempted Kang Karpo (Meili) in September. We followed the route we had previously explored in 1988 and established two camps above Base Cam...
California, Sierra Nevada—On June 28, 1956 John Brinkmann (15) was injured while climbing the NE ridge of University Peak. The party was led by Scoutmaster Jim Fairchild, who had had mountain experience with the Sierra Club; the climbing party con...
Peaks above the Kahiltna Glacier. Late in May, Margaret Young and I flew our Cessna 180 onto the Kahiltna Glacier and established camp among the group of granite peaks that lie inside the “great bend” of the Kahiltna. We explored the immediate vic...
Winter Ascents in the Cascades. The drought winter of 1976-1977 presented climbing conditions that had not been experienced in recent history and may not be seen again in the present generation. February was particularly calm, clear and warm. Ther...
FALL ON ROCK—Quebec, Val David, Mont Cesair. Joscelyn Valliere was leading the Valse Direct on Mt. Cesair at 11:30 a.m. on March 11, 1976. He fell when he was about six feet above his last runner, broke his right leg on a ledge, and slipped severa...