On July 9, a 23-year-old man with about two months of climbing experience was scouting for new climbs at the top of a popular crag called Taylors Falls, one hour north of Minneapolis–Saint Paul. The climber was not wearing a harness, helmet, or an...
An Indian Himalayan Club team comprising Rajesh Gadgil, Ratnesh Javeri, Vineeta Muni, Imran Pathan, and Ashish Prabhu, led by veteran Divyesh Muni, made the first ascent of the northwest ridge of Chemma (6,130m), which was probably also the first ...
At 10:45 a.m. on September 25, Koki Ikeda, Daisuke Shimozuru, Yujiro Suga, and Asahi Takeshita (Japan) with Dendi Sherpa, Ngima Sherpa, Penba Sherpa, Tenjin Sherpa, and Bir Kaji Tamang (Nepal), all from a Japanese expedition led by Sachio Nakamizo...
Mikel Zabalza led an expedition of the Spanish Alpine Team to the Rolwaling in 2017 (AAJ 2018). The following year he returned with a group of friends to attempt the unclimbed southeast ridge of Drangnag Ri (6,757m).Base camp was established in th...
The Chulu Group from the Annapurna Circuit trekking route to the south: (A) Chulu West, (B) Chulu East, and (C) Chulu Southeast. The south-facing walls of both Chulu West and East are thought to be unclimbed. Photo by Damien GildeaWIDELY REPORTED ...
AT THE END of August, Jorian Bakker (27), Noël Diepens (31), Wout Martens (27), Line van den Berg (26), Rik van Odenhoven (27), and Mats Wentholt (27), with team coaches Court Haegens (47) and Boris Textor (32), traveled to the Djangart Range. Thi...
View east from the ascent of Pik Vulture to (A) White Lady, (B) Rabbit Ear, (C) Twin Towers, (D) Yellow Tower, and (E) Black Spark. Photo by Mark AitkenTHE AT BASHI RANGE is more than 100km in length and about 30km wide, a beautiful region of sno...
I GOT A MESSAGE from Hiroki Yamamoto: “I’m going to India with Yusuke Sato this fall, and I’m wondering if you wanna join us?” Five months before, I had become a father and was on parental leave, spending all my time with my wife and daughter. I d...
In September, Josie McKee, Caro North, and I traveled to the Kijai Nala (valley) with the intention of climbing the west face of Arjuna (6,230m). We spent 28 days in the mountains and encountered mostly bad weather and difficult conditions. After ...
Flat Top (6,100m) and Kishtwar Eiger (ca 6,000m) are situated above the Brammah Glacier on the southwestern side of the Kishtwar region, in the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Due to military conflict in recent decades, this area has not been popular ...
THE STATE of Nuevo León in Mexico is most famous among climbers for El Potrero Chico, north of Monterrey. But there are limestone walls all around Monterrey, some more adventurous then others. In November I paid a visit to the nonprofit youth deve...
The north side of El Toro showing approximate lines of (1) El Sendero Luminoso and (2) La Sombra Luminosa. Photo by Drew Marshall FOR ME, CLIMBING IS ALL ABOUT getting to the top, so when I arrived at El Potrero Ch...
In October, Aivaras Sajus and I made the first known ascent of Sharphu II (6,328m, 27°45'29.87"N, 87°55'7.92"E) via the east face—a route we named Samsāra (1,040m, ED2 AI5 M6). The route height is measured from the first belayed pitch on the glaci...
Lobuche East (6,090m) is easily overlooked as a target for serious climbs. In fact, we did exactly that. Daniel Joll and I (New Zealand), and Kim Ladiges and Matt Scholes (Australia), traveled to Nepal in November 2017 to climb the north face of C...
In August I guided Pedro Costa, Tiago Faneca, and João Lopes on an expedition to Ladakh. We spent four days on the famous Markha Valley Trek, then established base camp at 4,400m in the Langthang Chu, near the settlement marked as Male, aiming to ...
The east face of La Popa, showing (1) Super Blood Wolf (275m, 5.11) and (2) El Gavilan (9 pitches, 5.13a). Spanish Harlem (11 pitches, 5.11+ A0), the other route on the formation, ascends the left skyline. Photo by Jacob CookLOOKING NORTHWEST from...
AFTER 14 MONTHS OF PLANNING, I landed at Yushu Airport (3,800m) in Qinghai to meet my companions Ben and Jos Hoetjes (New Zealand), who had ridden bikes almost 1,000km from the provincial capital of Xining. It had taken them 10 days and provided v...
In 2017, Garrett Madison led a commercial expedition that made the first ascent of Tharke Kang (6,710m), a summit on the northwest ridge of Hungchi (7,029m), just southeast of the Nup La (5,848m). The expedition trekked from Lukla to a base camp a...
In 2017 I located an area of the Khumuche Himal that I felt worth exploring. This chain of peaks lies on the east side of the Thesebu Khola, around 10km north of Namche. Summits there are approximately 5,400–5,750m, and one stood out: Phuletate (s...
On November 5, 2017, Tore Sunde-Rasmussen (Norway),Dawa Tashi Sherpa, Tamting Sherpa, and Thundu Sherpa made the first ascent of an unnamed peak of about 5,840m (at approximately 27°56'29.93"N, 86°21'54.94"E) on the long east ridge of Dolma Kang...