Minor Peaks around Shisha Pangma. In addition to the attempt on Shisha Pangma described above, we made climbs of other peaks. P 5900, east of Phola Ganchen and north of the lake Kung Tso, was probably first climbed by the 1984 reconnaissance party...
Whitney Portal Area, Mushroom Tower, New Routes. This attractive formation is about one mile west of Whitney Portal Buttress. It is recognizable by a boulder on its summit. Approach it from the Mount Whitney trail by going up the drainage before (...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 10, 1992, at 1710, the “West Buttheads” expedition, Timothy Hagan (39) and Paul Kogelmann (33) were descending the headwall from the 16,200 foot camp. They were traveling roped and o...
Shivling. Germans Hans Raumer, leader, Dirk von Massenbach and Jimmy Rudolf reached Tapovan on October 9. They set up a camp at 5500 meters and gained the summit on October 19 via the west ridge. From Tapovan to the summit and back took them only ...
Torre Egger. Our expedition consisted of Jim Donini, Jay Wilson and me, supported by Jane Hunter, Jane and Sherm Wilson and Maureen Donahue. We arrived in the area on December 1 and after much load carrying started the climb on December 10. Beauti...
Hanispur. Our expedition was composed of Duncan Tunstall, Wiz Pasteur, Angus Atkinson and me. We had hoped to cross the Karakoram from Skardu to Shimhal via Snow Lake, ascending by the little known Nobande Sobande Glacier and descending by the Vir...
Sentinel Rock, North Face. In September Dennis Hennek and I prepared to attempt the sixth new route on the north face of Sentinel Rock, starting 75 feet left of the Robbins-Frost route. After carrying food, water and equipment to the base of the f...
Uttaranchal, new regulations. While the world is opening its doors to mountaineers and mountain lovers, the news from the new Uttaranchal State in India is distressing. The state contains some of the most beautiful areas in the Indian Himalaya, wi...
Appalachian Mountain Club. AMC climbers could be found on expeditions throughout the world. Although there were no club-sponsored climbing trips, there were nevertheless numerous private trips to areas throughout the United States and South Americ...
Cordillera de Cocpata, Various Ascents. This is the only Bolivian Andean chain east of the divide. I hitchhiked to the Ipilla hamlet, in the central part of the range. I then hiked up the Ipilla valley and on June 14 made an ascent of Cerro Llaja ...
High Altitude Medicine and Physiology. Michael P. Ward, James S. Milledge and John B. West. University of Pennsylvania Press, Philadelphia, 1989. 515 pages. $89.95.As the golden age of Himalayan climbing climaxes, it’s not surprising to find apara...
Mount Watkins, South Face, Hook, Line, and Sinker. In May Mike Munger, Steve Larsen and I finished the second route on Watkins’ south face. From the top of the 800-foot, left-hand buttress, the first technical pitches gain the left-tending ramps t...
Watch Tower, South Buttress, First Free Ascent. Last August, John Merriam and I did the first free ascent of the South Buttress (IV 5.11b R) of the Watch Tower in the Wind River Range.Jonathon Copp
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXE, POOR POSITION— ATTEMPTED SHORT-CUT Oregon, Mount Jefferson, Southwest RidgeOn August 6, 1994, Gabriella Klassen (43), along with three others in her party, was descending the Southwest ridge after hav...
Kolob Canyon, Paria Point, Experimental Earth, Previously Unreported. In September, 1998, Jim Bridwell, Ron Olevsky and I climbed Experimental Earth (V 5.10 A3, ten pitches) on the south side of Paria Point. The route follows the continuous crack ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK and INADEQUATE PROTECTION,and ONE HORNET ATTACKNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksOf the 18 incidents reported form the Shawangunks in 1996, twelve were the result of leader falls, with six of those exacerbated by inadequa...
Phantom III and Phantom II. On August 2 Gary Brill, Carl Skoog and I climbed these two minor 7960-foot peaks. Note: They are located .6 of a mile south of Sinister Peak, on the Sinister-Blizzard barrier. (NCCS I, F4.)Gordy Skoog, Unaffiliated
EXPOSURE, BAD WEATHER, STRANDED California, Sierra NevadaDr. Reed Boswell (55) and Scott Jackson (16) spent the day of June 16 climbing Clyde Couloir. Near the top they either became stranded or were caught by nightfall. During the night a storm d...
Wind River Peak, New Route on the North Buttress. Late in August, Jim Stoddard and I climbed a gully from the basin west (Black Joe Lake approach) to the notch which separates the final section of Wind River Peak from “Little El Cap” and points no...
Iowa Mountaineers’ Sawtooth Outing. During August the Iowa Mountaineers had their fourth outing in the Sawtooth Range. A number of new routes were made. Jim Kolocotronis, Michael Coriden, Bob Christianson, and Bob Lipshultz made a new variation up...