Vinson, new height (4,892m), first ascents of sub-peaks, many new peak names. As the name implies, Vinson Massif is a large bulk of mountain with numerous summits. Though the main summit, first climbed in December 1966, has now had over 950 ascent...
Sierra Club. Mountaineering activities continued on many fronts during 1955. Group outings during the summer included High Trips or Base Camps in the Tetons, Glacier National Park, Mount Rainer, northern Yosemite National Park, and the Minarets an...
Psychological Aspects of MountaineeringJ. W. A. HicksonIT would indeed be a very confident and naive person who believed that, at this stage in the history of mountaineering, anything new could be said concerning the reasons which lead, or even im...
Shishapangma’s Southwest FaceDouglas Scott, Alpine Climbing GroupSHISHAPANGMA LIES a hundred miles west-northwest of Everest to the north of Nepal and wholly in Tibet. The Tibetan name means “The Crest above the Grassy Plain.” The Sanskrit name, G...
Aquilpo and Atlante, Cordillera BlancaGary Ziegler, unaffiliatedclimbing in the Andes defies all attempts at organization and planning. Despite knowing this, months in advance we prepared plans and complex time-tables of where and when we would be...
Ak-su valley, Pamir Pyramid, west face. The Anglo-German team of Daniel Danzer, Jens and Michael Richter, Markus Stofer, and Sarah and Tony Whitehouse climbed a new route on Pik 3,700m, the pyramid that stands immediately west of the Russian Tower...
Geographical Distribution of Accidents:1947-19531954Atlantic States—North 113South10Colorado293Utah40Wyoming163Montana & Idaho33Arizona & New Mexico41California185Oregon143Washington146Alaska13Practice Cliffs All Areas42TerrainRock8316Snow...
Chakragil, West Ridge. While taking advantage of a free week during a visit to the far reaches of Xinjiang Province in northwestern China, I climbed the west ridge of Chakragil (22,071'). I took no map or altimeter and am therefore uncertain of th...
Although I had climbed several walls in Zion, I had never climbed El Capitan; in fact, I had never even been to the Valley. Yosemite, and El Capitan in particular, had been built up in my mind, the ultimate destination and the ultimate goal. ...
Baintha Kabata is the peak in back in the center, as viewed from the upper Choktoi Glacier, near base camp. The Turgeon-Haley South Ridge is the left skyline. Photo by Maxime Turgeon Maxime Turgeon and I traveled to the Choktoi Glacier in Aug...
STRANDED, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaRob, Loree, and Bob started up the scree slopes of Yamnuska under a clear blue sky on June 4, 1994, to climb the 5.8 route “Belfry” on Mount Yamnuska. By the time they reached ...
Mount Deborah, West Face. Dave Lucey and I flew into the Yanert Glacier April 28 and moved camp to the base of the first icefall. The key to the first icefall is getting an early start before the rocks on the left start falling. The second icefall...
Arniko Chuli, first ascent and survey. In the summer of 2001, I began topographical research of the mountains west of Lo Manthang and Chharang, and made the first ascent of Arniko Chuli (6,034m). Arniko Chuli is at the northern edge of the range b...
The Swabian Andean Expedition, 1961Richard HechtelTranslated by H. Adams CarterThe Cordillera Blanca has been declared by many the most beautiful mountain chain in the world. Its relatively easy accessibility makes it particularly attractive as a ...
K7 Reconnaissance. Bob Barton and I made a reconnaissance of K7 (22,750 feet) during the first three weeks of September. We found that K7 would be difficult from the Chogolisa Glacier and could best be attempted from the Kondus side. By climbing a...
Ascents in UgandaGeorge Hurley, MarmotsRUWENZORI CLIMBSIn mid-December my wife Jean and I drove from where we teach at Namilyango College near Kampala, to the western Uganda town of Fort Portal. The next morning we got from the District Commission...
The First Ascent of Mount McKinley, 1913A Verbatim Copy of the Diary of Harry P. KarstensPreface and Footnotes by Bradford WashburnThe original is reproduced here exactly as written, including misspellings and abbreviations. It was written in penc...
Changi Tower, attempt. Previously unreported from 2005 is the ascent, but not to the summit, of a previously unclimbed line up the east pillar of one of the formations that makes up the Changi Tower. Jordi Comas from Barcelona, Oriol Ribas, and I ...
FALLING ROCK, LOOSE ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS Wyoming, Wind River Range, Seneca LakeA backpacking and climbing party of eight, all from Minnesota, left the trailhead at the Elkhart Park Guard Station, in the Winds, on July 17, 1992, at 1200. The...
FitzRoy by the SupercouloirJosé Luis Fonrouge and Carlos E. Comesaña, Centro Andino Buenos AiresTranslated by H. Adams CarterAs if the Pampa, tired of meekness, were kicking up its heels to shake off its centuries-old pace, the fantastic pyramid o...