AVALANCHE, BAD WEATHER Washington, Mt. RainierThis is an account of an accident which befell Willi Unsoeld (52) and 21 of his students from The Evergreen State College while attempting to climb Mt. Rainier in late February. It covers the essential...
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Quandry MountainOn September 6, two climbers, a woman named Sunny (40) and her companion, a man (42), were ascending the Class 4 West Ridge on Quandry Mountain when Sunny slipped on loose...
Cho Oyu, southwest face to west ridge, partial new route. On October 2 the accomplished Slovenian mountaineer Pavle Kozjek soloed a partial new route to the summit of 8,188m Cho Oyu. Starting from an advanced base at 6,200m on the Gyabrag Lho Glac...
Trango Nameless Tower, Slovene Route. It was reported that the Spanish team of Txuma Ruiz and Julián Beraza repeated the Slovene Route. Further details are lacking.
Koktang. An Indian Army expedition of five members made the first ascent of Koktang (20,990 feet), which lies south of Kangchenjunga. Major K. S. Rana, Captain K.P.S. Ahluwalla and two Sherpas reached the summit on April 26.
Czechoslovakian Earthquake Victims, Llanganuco. A 15-man Czech expedition attempted the south face of Huandoy in May. On May 18, one of their number, Ivan Bortel, slipped and fell 100 feet down a brook bed while descending unroped on easy terrain ...
Peak 29. A Japanese expedition of eight men and two women was given up after three of them were killed by the blast of an avalanche on September 14. The group, led by Tumio Tanaka, was attempting the southwest face and south ridge of Peak 29. Camp...
Aguja Saint Exupery, Buscaini Route, Variation. The early part of March, 1997, witnessed a spell of ten days of good weather. Diego Magaldi and Jorge Kozulj climbed Aguja Saint Exupery during this window, following for the most part the Buscaini r...
Kyes Peak, Northeast Ridge. An extended logging road on the north fork of the Sauk River makes this new route, climbed by me on September 14, the most direct of the three approaches available. From the road end follow good trail two miles to Curry...
SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains South, Mount Billy BuddOn August 18, J.C. and G.H. departed from a climbing camp located on north side of Houston Lake on a “day off’ hi...
Udren Zom Central. A nine-man Japanese expedition was led by Koji Hirai. On August 10 Toshinori Niwa, Koji Morita, Nobuyuki Sakurai, Terunobu Ishii and Michio Kubota climbed to the top (23,229 feet) from Camp IV at 22,000 feet. This was the first ...
Numbur Attempt. A Japanese expedition, led by Senkichi Kitaoka, attempted in the pre-monsoon season to climb the northwest ridge of Numbur (6959 meters, 22,832 feet). They got to Camp III at 21,650 feet but found the ridge beyond too knife-edged t...
Buckeye Mountain. This small peak lies on the south-southeast ridge from Whitehorse Mountain, about a half mile distant. Rich Carlstad and I made its first ascent on August 9, as a prelude to our fifth ascent of Mount Bullon the following day. Fro...
Rosh Gol Valley, Chitral, Hindu Kush Range. On July 7 Peter Far- quhar, my husband Gene and I with 12 members of the newly formed University of Peshawar Mountaineering Club, led by Mr. Farzand Ali Durrani, left the town of Chitral for the Rosh Gol...
Annapurna Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of Austrians, Swiss and one Czechoslovakian was led by Hanns Schell. They were on the mountain at the same time as the West German expedition described below. After abandoning the Dutch route because of ...
Foraker Attempt. After trying for a week to run and hide from avalanches in the icefall leading to the northeast ridge of Mount Foraker, Peggy Scott (now my wife) and I finally decided to climb the ridge to the right of the icefall but ran out of ...
Peak Pobeda, Ski Descent, Attempt. “Mt. Victory” (pronounced po-byeh-da in Russian) was the last major peak in the Soviet Union to be scaled, and despite the popularity of skiing in the adjacent Pamirs, it still remains unskied in its entirety. Da...
Trident and Other Peaks, Cordillera Carabaya. Our party, W. Good-fellow, S. C. Dudley, D. G. Massam, R. G. McKenzie, Dr. G. G. Jackson, A. O. Parton, J. Dowd, A. N. H. Chinn and I as leader, was mostly from the Auckland Section of the New Zealand ...
Ingolfsfield, Angmagssalik Area, East Greenland. Information on two significant expeditions in 1971 eluded us until published in Mountain. Both hoped to climb Ingolfsfjeld (8698 feet), a peak that rises directly from the tide-water of Kangertitvas...
Berge in alle Ewigkeit, by Jost Perfahl. Salzburg/Stuttgart: Verlag Das Bergland Buch, 1960. 351 pages, with 22 plates (5 in color), and bibliography. Sw. Fr. 16.80.Mountain experiences and tragedies of all periods, from Hannibal to Harrer, form t...