The Book of the Mountains, edited by A. C. Spectorsky. 492 pages, 87 pictures, numerous sketches. New York: Appleton-Century-Crofts, Inc. 1955. Price $10.00.This is a tremendous anthology that often takes the reader more into history, mythology an...
El Mocho and Torre de la Media Luna, 1993-4. In late December, Italians Ermanno Salvaterra and Adriano Cavallaro climbed a new route on the north face of El Mocho. At this time further details are not available. The same pair repeated the east but...
Mount Ghent Massif, Kondus Group. The German Institute for Foreign Research in Munich sent on June 29 its third expedition to the Himalayas. I was named leader of the "German-English-Pakistani Himalaya Expedition” (DEPAK). To the team also belonge...
Mount Hayes Traverse. On August 28 John Dattoli flew Jim Jennings, Dave Dausel and me to a gravel bar next to the Trident Glacier for an alpine-style attempt on Mount Hayes. Two days later we climbed up and over Levi’s Bump to camp in the col at...
Table Mountain, Heartbreak Ridge. It was reported that Paul Horton and Jon Stuart established Heartbreak Ridge on Table Mountain in July. The climb follows the south arête of the southernmost buttress. Horton was surprised to find 10 pitches of en...
FALL ON ROCK, FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF, CLIMBING UNROPED Arizona, Cochise Stronghold, Rockfellow DomeOn November 26, 1992, my friends and I (45) were checking out the climbs on Rockfellow Dome with the intention of climbing there the next day. At the ba...
Dhaulagiri I Attempt. Tasashi Amamiya was leader of the 17-man Tokyo Metropolitan Mountaineering Federation expedition, which attempted the south buttress of Dhaulagiri. Base Camp was set up on March 1 at 11,350 feet, Camp I at 14,750 feet on Marc...
Purcell Range. The Harvard Mountaineering Club held its summer climbing camp from August 8 to 28 in the Purcell Range of British Columbia. Ten climbers traversed from the Vermont Group to the Bugaboos, following with the exceptions outlined below ...
Everest Attempt. Our “Climb for Hope Expedition” was organized to get charity money to combat the Rett Syndrome. Our members, mostly from Canada, were Ernie Sniedzins, Dr. Mario Bilodeau, Dr. Dennis Brown, Jamie Clarke, Ross Cloutier, Jim Everard,...
Soviet Climbers on Mount McKinley. On May 15 Reilly Moss and I arrived in Anchorage with Soviet mountaineers of the American Alpine Club exchange program, Eduard Myslovski, leader, Vladimir Shatayev, Sergei Efimov, Valia Ivanov, Oleg Borisenok and...
Gasherbrum II (8,035m), first winter ascent. On February 2, 2011, Simone Moro (Italian) Cory Richards (American), and Denis Urubko (Kazakh) reached the summit of Gasherbrum II via the Normal Route up the southwest ridge. The team made the summit i...
The Owls, Mount Weart East Ridge. Two subsidiary peaks each about 9000 feet on the east ridge of Mount Weart in Garabaldi Park were climbed June 5 by Terry Stafford and me and nicknamed the Owls. Although the ascents via the south side from the We...
HERBERT E. SAMPSON 1871–1962Herbert Sampson was born and educated in Toronto and moved to Regina in 1909 where he died on September 16, 1962. He was graduated from University College, University of Toronto in 1893 and received his Bachelor of Laws...
Mount Edith Cavell, North Face, Two New Routes. July 21 was Colorado’s big day on Edith Cavell. There was a pair from Boulder who did the classic Jones-Faint-Chouinard route on the same day as our two parties made new routes. Harry Kent and I were...
AAC, Cascade Section. In 2002 the Cascade Section hosted one main event and supported two others. On December 13 we had a reception and slideshow for members and guests with Carlos Buhler as our speaker. With over 160 people attending, the recepti...
Chopiraju Oeste, Kimarumi. On June 24 Jeff Lee, Merle Wheeler, Pat Weidman, Dick Webster and I entered the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca and set up Base Camp at the opening of the Quebrada Cayesh the next day. On the 26th all but Jeff began a climb of Ch...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. The past year was one of continued growth and expansion of the club’s activities. An unusually mild winter saw considerable activity at our local areas, particularly Devils Lake. One winter outing gained a possible f...
Talus: A History of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Dean Engle. Peter Randall, Hanover, 1993. 253 pages, index, three appendices, many illustrations, two maps. $24.50.The DMC (not to be confused with the DOC—Dartmouth Outing Club) was started i...
Orion’s Reflection. The great canyon walls of the Wind River Range contain many spectacular features seldom seen by the climber, but perhaps nowhere are there more surprises than in the southeastern portion. Glimpses from the Bears Ears Trail in p...
Washington, Guye Peak—On April 10, Steve Hoit (17), and 17 other climbers climbed Guye Peak. The weather and climbing conditions were good. The party was well equipped and adequately clothed. The party descended en glissade down a steep snow slope...