Pisco, South Face, 1982. On June 25, 1982, from a 17,400-foot camp, Italians Nuzzo and Agostinis climbed a difficult route up ice flutes on Pisco’s south face. The part just below the summit was nearly vertical. The leader of the expedition was S....
Kolob Canyon, Nagunt Mesa, Cos the Boss. In late October and early November 2001 I did a new wall route in Kolob Canyon with Steve Gerberding and Scott Cosgrove. The formation is called Nagunt Mesa, and we made the first ascent of the east-northea...
South Face of Cutthroat Peak. This climb could well be done in a more leisurely fashion, but Don Claunch and Fred Beckey made this new route on a fall weekend from Seattle, approaching via Twisp River and Copper Pass. We found the actual climb not...
Ogre’s Thumb, South Face. It was reported that Italians Maurizio Giordani and Mauro Fonz, with D. Jonathan Hall, made the first ascent of the south face of the Ogre’s Thumb (5600 m) in the Latok group at the foot of the Ogre (Baintha Brakk). The f...
Mount Tuzo West Face. In July, Kevin Smyth and Jeff Marshall finally completed a new route on the west face of Mount Tuzo up a buttress on the west face which overlooks the Valley of the Ten Peaks. The line had been previously attempted. They took...
FALL ON ROCK–POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOregon, Smith Rock, ZebraOn June 23 Grant Pease (38) was leading Zebra, a 5.10a trad route rated three stars and requiring gear to three inches, according to Alan Watts’ Climbers Guide to Smith Rock...
El Gigante, Simuchi. In the Basaseachic Waterfall National Park, Chihuahua, Carlos García Ayala (Mexico) and Cecilia Buil (Spain) made the first ascent of Simuchi (“The Hummingbird,” VI 6c A4, 1000m) on the northwest face of E1 Gigante from April ...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. Our expedition reached Base Camp in the high meadow, Lathebow, in the Rupal valley at 12,000 feet on May 15, hoping to climb the southeast buttress of Nanga Parbat. The buttress was, however, snow-covered and avalanche-swept ...
T. M. Griffiths, Gordon Williams, and the writer, alternating the lead, made the first complete ascent of the north face of Mount Sneffels (14,143 ft.). The right couloir of the north face was followed to its junction with the northwest couloir, t...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Crescent SpiresOn July 6, 1986, a solo climber (24) was attempting the Donkey Ears. It was cloudy and cool. About 2500 meters he came to a spot that was very di...
Chaukhamba. The third ascent of Chaukhamba (7138 meters, 23,120 feet) was made by Ajit Kumar Kalita, Rejen Gautom, Pallev Deka and Sherpa Kami on September 9. They had three high camps.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
San Rafael Swell, 1990. On April 25, 1990, I climbed Lightbulb, a bizarre 170-foot tower named for its overhanging bulbous shape. Located near the San Rafael River Campground, it is clearly visible from the road and requires a 30-minute approach. ...
Russell, North Ridge. On February 17, Dave McGivern, Leo Americus and I flew to 8200 feet on the upper Yenta Glacier. On the second day, we moved up to 9700 feet and dug another snow cave. We reconnoitered on the third day, sorting out and wanding...
Pacific Northwest Mount McKinley Expedition. On May 17 John Day, Peter Schoening, and Lou and Jim Whittaker climbed to the summit of Mount McKinley by the west buttress route.
Yalungkang Ascent and Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Kim Teuk-Hee climbed the normal route on Yalungkang in winter but the summit climbers never returned. On December 20, Jin Kyo-Sup, Ang Dawa Sherpa and Tshering Tshemba Sherpa left Camp IV a...
Spider Peak, Northeast Buttress. Spider Peak is a remarkable remnant of the high-level erosion plateau of the northern portion of the Wind River Mountains. Brian Leo, Steve Jackson and I made an interesting new climb on August 31, following slabs ...
A. A. C., Sierra Nevada Section. Under Chairman Will Siri, Vice-Chairman Allen Steck, and Secretary-Treasurer Richard Houston, the Sierra Nevada Section held four meetings during 1953. Included in the activities were programs by Maurice Herzog on ...
Everest, Southwest Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Chung Woo-Sub, Nam Sun-Woo, Heo Jeong-Sik, Jung Gwang-Sig, Choi Tae-Sik, Cho Kwang-Je, Lee Sang-Lock, Park Young-Seok, Kim Jin-Sung, Koo Kyeong-Mo, Kim Seok-Jun and me as leader. We a...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Utah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn October 9, 1988, a male climber (27) was ascending “Wheels on Fire” (5.8, 5.10- Direct) when he fell about 15 meters. Two pieces of protection pulled, and...
Everest Grand Circle: A Climbing and Skiing Adventure through Nepal and Tibet. Ned Gillette and Jan Reynolds. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 264 pages, 40 pages of color photographs, maps. $22.50.Some time ago, while changing channels, I caught ...