FALL ON ROCK, ROPE JAMMED – SO SLACK IN ROPE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Guides WallIn mid-June around 1400, Dagmar Rapp (47) was being guided up the Double Crack on guides Wall and was on the Flake Pitch. Th...
Tirich Mir Til Topps, by the Norwegian Himalayan Expedition. 176 pages, with 54 half-tone illustrations, four color plates and three maps. Oslo: Gyldendal Norsk Forlag, 1950.This is the official account, in Norwegian, of the first ascent of Tirich...
Peaks Above Harding Icefield, Kenai Mountains. Months of planning for Peru and everything begins to go wrong. Eventually comes the blow which really shakes us up. May 31 is a quiet Sunday until the news of the earthquake. Now it is impossible. Pou...
RUTH DYAR MENDENHALL1912-1989Ruth Eleanor Dyar was bom on August 16, 1912 in Kiesling, Washington, a farming hamlet near Spokane. Her father, Ralph, was a newspaper executive and playwright. Her maternal grandparents, who had emigrated from southe...
Mt. Edgar (6,618m), west face. Previously unreported in the AAJ, but a significant addition to the climbing history of the Daxue Shan, is the first ascent of Mt. Edgar (E Gongga) in 2001 by a Korean expedition. The mountain was recon- noitered by ...
Denali, Attempt, and Ascent of Browne Tower; Mt. Koven, Second Ascent; and Mt. Tatum, North Rib. Our goal was an ascent of Browne Tower and the subsequent rocky ridge line to the summit of Mt. McKinley. The upper portion of this ridge (above the m...
GeographicalDistricts1951–19931994Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta3049565318345British Columbia243955316211Yukon Territory322669000Ontario27650102Quebec25554000East Arctic72200...
A New Route on Huascarán's East FaceEduard Koblmüller, Österreichischer AlpenvereinORIGINALLY the Academic Section, Vienna of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) had planned an expedition to the Karakoram (Gasherbrum III or Batura). Because of politica...
A large expedition from Ukraine, using fixed rope but no bottled oxygen and no high-altitude Sherpa support, climbed new ground on the left side of Makalu's southwest face. Led by Mstislav Gorbenko, the team divided into three groups to work on th...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Wild Bills’ Wall. Bill Forrest and I made a new route in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison (NCCS VI, F9, A5). We descended a steep gully south of Cross Fissures Overlook for 1500 feet and scrambled up a gully on the le...
ROCK DISLODGED—CAUSING FALL ON ROCK Wyoming, Devil’s Tower National MonumentOn August 20 at 1445, Jeff Pettenger (21) was leading a variation of the Bailey Direct finish to the Durrance Route when he fell approximately 100 feet, receiving fatal he...
Jieqinnalagabu (Namla Karpa) (6,316m), first ascent. We met our staff and got our permit for Tibet in Kathmandu on August 16. The first plan was to go to Kajaqiao, but when we arrived in Lhari we had problems with the road, the yaks, and the yak d...
Mulkilla, Central Lahul. The Indian Hari Dang with the French Alain and Cecile Barbézat attempted Mulkilla (21,380 feet), but they found the route too dangerous. They did make the first ascent of M5 (c. 20,900 feet) and climbed several other peaks.
Twice LuckyAscents in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan.Steve HouseThe skin around Vince’s eyes pinches into crows’ feet of concentration. The first shadows of age. His mouth is drawn tight and square, cheeks flat against his face. He wears an expr...
Mount Chamberlin, Franklin Mountains, and Ascents in the Romanzof Mountains, Brooks Range. Two peaks were climbed for the first time on a month-long trip to the Franklin and Romanzof Mountains led by Graham Stephenson. On July 24 Mount Chamberlin ...
Peaks of the Sierra Nevada Exceeding an Elevation of Thirteen Thousand FeetNAME OF PEAKORIGIN OF NAMEN.LATITUDEW.LONGITUDEALTITUDEABOVESEAAUTHORITYFORALTITUDEFIRST ASCENTSAbbottCal. G. S.37°2300’118c4700"13,700Le ConteAgassiz NeedleWinchell3706301...
Homathko Snowfield Peaks. On July 28, Lucille and Stanley Adamson, John Hall, Daniel Hinckley, Bruce Peterson and I left Campbell River, British Columbia, in two heavily loaded Beaver aircraft for a month-long expedition to the Homathko Snowfield....
St. Elias Mountains, Icefield Ranges Research Project. The expansion and growth of scientific research and work in this area has been done so quietly and effectively within the past few years that its importance to mountaineers may easily be misse...
Nevado de Carás I. A Spanish expedition from Gijón established its Base Camp at the eastern end of the Laguna Parón at 13,450 feet. They then placed Camp I at 16,750 feet at the foot of the glacier southeast of Carás I or Nevado de Carás de Parón....
El Capitan, West Buttress, first free ascent; Free Zodiac, second free ascent. I get more obsessed with Yosemite every year. No matter how many times I see El Cap, my palms sweat and my heartbeat quickens. I spend hours examining its cracks, conto...