Atlas Mountains, Taghia, Jbel Tagoujimt N’ Tsouaint, Tamdoine. At the end of September the team of three Catalonians (Jordi Jambert Dorca, Moisés Llado Dorca, David Font Ventura) and one Mexican (me) drove from Girona, Spain, to Algeciras. Once th...
Condoriri, Northwest Face and Kalhuani, Cordillera Real. On July 3 John Ross and I headed toward the 1500-foot-high northwest face of Condoriri. Since it seemed relatively free of obstacles, we aimed straight at the eastern summit. First we had to...
K2, discovery of Dudley Wolfe’s body. Most of the expeditions gave up toward the end of July and headed for home, but Araceli Segarra’s team, which included the Mexican, Hector Ponce de Léon, and American cameraman, Jeff Rhoades, remained and were...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Icicle Creek CanyonThe accident occurred on April 29, during the final hours of a two day rock climbing training session for intermediate students from the Everett Branch of The...
JiaziRichard M. NoltingTHE WEST FACE of Jiazi rose into veiw as I made my way across boulders to the edge of the Riuchi Glacier. The face was probably a mile high, broad, craggy and laced with snow-and-ice runnels—an ice-climber’s mountain with a ...
Postcards from the Ledge: Collected Mountaineering Writings of Greg Child. Greg Child. Mountaineers Books: Seattle, 1998. 25 black-and-white photos. 224 pages. $22.95.Among the voices of the several climbers writing well about climbing today, Greg...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Flattop MountainOn May 11 between 1100 and 1200, a man (57) fell approximately 50-100 feet while climbing a 45-degree snow colouir on the northwest flank of...
Mountain People. Michael Tobias, editor. University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, 1986. 219 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, maps. $29.95.For the past several years I have been looking forward to the Christmas season. Just about that tim...
Ak-Shirak, seven first ascents, first south-to-north crossing. By daylight the river flood plain of moraine debris stretched away to where distant peaks shone whitely. The skis and sledges lay forlorn at the roadside, where we had been unceremonio...
Alpinisme Sovietque, by A. Tcherepov. Translated from the Russian into French by Paul Sulfourt. Paris: Amiot-Dumont, 1957.This book’s twofold uniqueness atones for its colorless style. Not only does it illustrate Soviet mountaineering philosophy, ...
Mount Rainier National Park (2)—On Wednesday, August 11, 1954, a group of climbers from the Mountaineers climbed Meany Crest, which is within sight of Summerland and approximately two hours away. The crest was reached at 12:30 p.m. where they enjo...
Snow in the Kingdom: My Storm Years on Everest. Ed Webster. Eldorado Springs, Colorado: Mountain Imagery, 2000. 580 pages, color and black & white photos. $29.95.Figuratively, the dichotomous title of Ed Webster’s book tells a lot about what’s...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Washington ColumnOn September 27, Taylor Sincich (23) and I, Tommy Bairstow (24), set out to climb Mid-East Crisis on the east face of Washington Column. I had fixed four pitches by m...
Non C’é Due Senza TreThe great line on Nalumasortoq goes free, Greenland.Micah DashSitting in the Camp 4 parking lot, I felt my anxiety building to a crescendo. I was freaking out, which often happens. My partner was injured, our project was over,...
Mamostong Kangri, Third Ascent. Indian Army Engineers led by me climbed Mamostong Kangri (“Thousand Devils Peak”) by the same route as the Indo-Japanese expedition of 1984. A team of twenty climbers was supported by nine others. We made a two-day ...
Nya Kangri, south ridge, attempt. In June and July the Himalayan Club sponsored Vineeta Muni, Rajesh Gadgil, Rajan Rikame, and me in an attempt on the beautiful unclimbed snow and ice pyramid Nya Kangri (6,480 m), at the entrance to the Arganglas ...
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD British Columbia, Northern Selkirk Mountains, Sorcerer PeakOn July 27, 1994, D. Jones (45) and P. Kendrick (40) were climbing on the north flanks of Sorcerer Peak (3166 meters) near the northern bou...
Maoist encounters spring season commentary. Insecurity for people throughout Nepal due to an armed rebellion by Maoists, who have become especially active in the more remote areas of the country, was encountered separately by two teams, one Swiss ...
West Ridge of Nevado Santa CruzMatthew WellsHERNANDO PIZARRO FIRST entered the Callejón de Huaylas in January of 1533. He and his small army of uninvited conquerors had been dispatched from the Inca stronghold of Cajamarca by his brother, Francisc...
K2 Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Americans Stacy Allison (f), leader, John Petroske, Steve Steckmyer and me and Canadians Dan Culver, Jim Haberl and Dr. John Haigh. We arrived in Base Camp on June 6. The Slovene team was already ...