Everest Attempt and Acclimatization Experiment. An original idea I had in 1987 was able to be carried out in 1989 on the north-northeast ridge of Mount Everest thanks to a system worked out by the ARPE under the direction of Drs. Richalet and Hery...
Malubiting Central. The expedition of the Iwate Section of the Japanese Alpine Club was led by Junjiro Kasahara and Toshihiko Sato. They left Skardu and traveled through Yuno and Arandu to reach Base Camp on the Chogolungma Glacier at 14,000 feet ...
North Triple Peak, Northwest Face, Kichatna Mountains. On May 2 Peter Sennauser and I climbed North Triple Peak by an elegant ice swath on the northwest face. The climb gave us 25 hours of joy, agony and ice. There were 15 pitches of front-pointin...
Angel Wings, South Face. A new line up an old mountain: Angel Wings. That was the proposal Fred Beckey, Dougal McCarty, and Brian Leo had up their sleeve. With little or no persuasion I accompanied them. Things didn’t quite work out right that f...
Wyoming, Grant Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot—On August 13, F. M. Andrews (47) accompanied by Douglas Andrews (11), Parshall Terry (43), Bruce Terry (17), and Gregg Terry (10) were descending the east face of Teewinot. The weather and climbin...
Chomo Lönzo. A 9-member Japanese expedition of Rikkyo University led by Mitsumasa Ushikubo made the second ascent of Chomo Lönzo (7790 meters, 25,558 feet), which lies entirely in Tibet in the Makalu group. This was the second ascent of the peak b...
Lungser Kangri, Chhamser Kangri, and Lapgo Peaks. An expedition of The Mountaineers led by Harish Kapadia climbed and trekked in the Rupshu district of southeast Ladakh, an area recently opened to visitors. Dividing forces, one team climbed Chhams...
Nar Parbat, Garhwal. Nar Parbat (19,210 feet), which lies east of Badrinath, was attempted by a group from Bombay, led by L. R. Chari. Heavy snowfall prevented their reaching higher than 17,900 feet.
Makalu, West Face Attempt. The international expedition to the west face of Makalu (27,825 feet) began with a set of ridiculously lofty goals, labored without success, came home in rancor and remained divided by arguments that are moot and probabl...
Chacraraju Rescue. After Takao Hayashida, Koji Matsui and I had successfully climbed Huascarán Sur on August 5, we were asked to assist a Japanese party on Chacraraju, which had an injured member who could not move. From the Quebrada Ranincuray th...
Chacraraju Este Attempt and Chopicalqui, Southeast Ridge. Jun’ichi Okabe and Shusuke Magara attempted in June to climb a route on Chacraraju Este to the left of the Japanese route of 1972. They gave up after being swept by an avalanche some 650 fe...
The ascent of Petermann Peak, 9,650 ft., in southeastern Greenland, north of Iceland, is described in a comprehensive article in the Geographical Journal for June, 1930. The paper is by J. M. Wordie, of the Cambridge East Greenland Expedition, 192...
New routes on Cairn Peak. From Base Camp of the Rock Climbing Section of the San Diego Chapter, Sierra Club at the Titcomb Lakes, Cairn Peak was seen as a square-topped massif to the southwest. On August 7, two new routes were climbed on its north...
Yayamari, Atun Paco and Pacco Loma, Southern Cordillera Vilcanota. In four days from Sicuani, we reached Base Camp at 16,250 feet on Laguna Amayani (a name unknown to the locals, who call the lake Cascara). Out of eleven days there, the weather wa...
Mike Pennings and I established a direct line (Fallen Angels, IV 5.10+) to the west summit on the north face of Mt. Stewart, following a prominent crack system that widens enough at one point to inspire the pitch name The Sleeping Bag Simulator. T...
Traverse of Endicott Mountains. Patrick Call, Cedron Jones and I traversed a portion of the Endicott Mountains in the Brooks Range during the end of August. We began at Anaktuvuk Pass, walked through Ernie Pass, up Grizzly Creek, over the shoulder...
Nepal, Various Winter Ascents. In the winter of 1996-97, only four expeditions came to Nepal, one each on Ama Dablam, Annapurna I, Makalu and Pumori. One Korean expedition, led by Park Young-Seok, reported success on Ama Dablam by its standard Sou...
Bhagirathi II and III, 1979. We had little information about this part of Garhwal. The only clear fact was that Bhagirathi II had been climbed. We found out after the expedition that the first ascent of Bhagirathi III had been made from the west, ...
British Columbia, Coast Range, Golden Ears Area. During the search for Mr. Evans and his son in June Don Ourom of the Mountain Rescue Group suffered severe leg fractures when hit by a falling rock. Quick radio communication brought an Air Force he...
K2. Italians Reinhold Messner, Friedl Mutschlechner, Renato Casa- rotto and Alessandro Gogna, German Michael Dacher and Austrian Robert Schauer made up a strong team that hoped to climb the well publicized “Magic Line” on K2. This route would have...