Jatunhuma I, West Face, Cordillera Vilcanota. Dave Wilkinson and I spent twelve days in the area, based at Ticlacocha. Apart from the rubbish piles, it was a delightful place and we were blessed with the promised good Andean weather. Campa I and C...

Angel Wings, South Arête, Original Route. In February 2002 Jason Magness and I made what we believe was the first winter ascent of the South Arête of Angel Wings, in Sequoia National Park. After an 18-mile snowshoe approach, we pulled off our plas...

Attempt on Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota. John Cady, Kep Stone, and Chuck Kroger made an attempt in late July on the northeast ridge of Ausangate. From a camp at 18,500 feet they set out to try for the top, but made slow progress in rotten snow ...

Fairweather, West Ridge, Winter Ascent. On March 16 Alaskans Dave Pahlke, George Ferry, Richard Burton, Bruce Hickok and I made the first winter ascent of Mount Fairweather via the west ridge. We landed at 3000 feet at the base of the west ridge o...

Tukuche, Ascent and Attempts. It was reported that three teams attempted Tukuche (6920m) in the pre-monsoon. Bart Vos (NL) made the first ascent when he climbed the northwest ridge from the French Pass on April 10. Dutch climber Aad Buijtendijk an...

Travel in the Austera Peak Region and Primus Peak, North Ridge. From the southwest, access to the northeast rampart of Austera Peak is a logistical hassle. On September 7 I climbed Austera Peak, then down-climbed toward the northwest, to the first...

INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn November 4, 1983, Pat Ranstrom (26) was leading the last pitch of The Surprise when she took a fall resulting in a compound fracture of her lower left leg. Afteran initial assessment...

Bhagirathi I, Southeast Ridge. All thirteen men and two women of the Japanese Kanagawa Prefecture Expedition completed the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Bhagirathi (6856 meters, 22,494 feet). Base Camp was set up on September 7 at Nandanb...

Peaks East of Head of Bute Inlet, Coast Range. Jerry Calbaum, Frank Slater, Nick Dodge, and I landed at Icewall Lake on August 8, after first making an airdrop on a small glacier 3½ miles to the southwest. Our objective was the unclimbed peaks sur...

British Columbia, Coast Range, Golden Ears. In June 1966, Leslie Evans and his son John (13) set out to climb the Golden Ears. Search began when they failed to return. The weather was bad and precise information on their objective was not availabl...

Nanga Parbat Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Walter Ruppert, leader, Lili Alfrid Ruppert, Walter Knezicek, Herbert Jesenko, Naz Gruber, Walter Snehotta, my brother Gerhard Neumayer and me. We attempted the 10,000-foot-high Diamir Face of N...

The World Among the Summits: The Julian Alps, by Jaka Cop. Ljubljana, Yugoslavia; Drzavna Zalozba Slovenije, 1962. 233 pages, 100 black and white illustrations. Price $5.00.The author is one of Slovenia’s best known climbers. He is 52 years of age...

P 6392 (Janam), Kishtwar Himal, Second Ascent. P 6392 (20,970 feet), locally called Janam, is located north of the Kiar Nalla. The first ascent was reported in A.A.J., 1978, page 612. Base Camp at the Sarbal meadows at 11,800 feet was reached on J...

Mt. Babel, east face; Mt. Louis, east face. Kevin Thaw and I arrived in the Canadian Rockies on August 1 with two weeks set aside for an alpine climbing holiday. It seemed that the weather was less unsettled on the more southerly peaks in the foot...

Peter Left. The first pitch is the left side of Tinker Bell at the base of El Capitan. The second is a 4-inch crack ending at the base of an extremely overhanging dihedral. The next pitch is one of the finest individual sections of climbing existi...

Hannes Schneider, the Austrian ski expert, has arrived in the United States, and is conducting classes at the Eastern Slope Inn, North Conway, N. H.

The most notable ascent of the otherwise quiet Canadian Rockies summer, despite a noteworthy succession of cloudless days, came in early August, when J Mills and Dana Ruddy slogged over Woolley Shoulder and sent the Lowe-Glidden on the north fac...

History of the Sierra Nevada by Francis P. Farquhar. Berkeley, University of California Press, 1965. 262 pages, 1 color plate, 48 other illustrations, 5 maps. $10.00.Who but Francis Farquhar could, or should, write the story of the range that hold...

Kangchenjunga Traverse. Our expedition was organized by Ryutaro Hashimoto and led by Katsuhiko Kano. It had 20 Japanese and three Nepalese climbers, 18 other Japanese including scientists and members of the media and 28 high-altitude porters. On F...

Thors Land, Queen Lilliana, first ascent. John Burcham, myself and brother Andy, together with Shinichi Sakamoto again visited the fjords near Thor’s Land north of Tassilaq in East Greenland. The 200-mile boat journey from Tassilaq needed two boat...