FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, ROCK BROKE OFF, NO HARD HATColorado, Garden of the Gods, Three GracesIn mid-August, a young male local climber died as a result of a fall from this formation. In talking with the search and rescue folks, I lear...
P C.5030, Near Torrini, Quimsa Cruz, 1990. From Viloco, Jim Petroske and I followed the road to Araca for 10 kilometers and switched to a mule path where the road begins to descend to Araca. We continued along the mule path up a side valley to an ...
Alaska Mt. McKinley. Upon reaching the 17,200 foot camp on the West Buttress route at 3:30 p.m. on 26 June John Waterman (16) did not feel well. John got into his sleeping bag in the ice cave at this camp and remained there for the rest of the aft...
Gasherbrum I, Northwest Face Solo. G. Di Federico climbed a new route on the northwest face of Gasherbrum I to the right of the icefall. He set out from 5900 meters early on July 13 and climbed along a ridge crest to 6300 meters. The next day he c...
Southern Selkirks. The fourth Harvard Mountaineering Club Climbing Camp was held last summer during the latter part of August in the Southern Selkirks. Nineteen members participated, and some 19 days were spent in the area. For climbing and traini...
Rolling Thunder, Northeast Ridge. This ridge, while spectacular when viewed from certain directions, proved to be remarkably easy when first climbed on August 3 by David Lowe and me. The only problem of the climb was locating the ledge which provi...
Moab Area. Across from the Bride Tower, The Dowry (5.9, A3) route was put up by Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson. In Hell Roaring Canyon near the Green River and west of Moab, Moaner Lisa was climbed at 5.12a by Kyle Copeland, Eric Johnson, Lisa Ha...
Traverse from Lower Saddle to Valhalla Canyon. Although not a route to the summit of any peak, this traverse is nevertheless of sufficient importance to be brought to the attention of those who have an interest in climbing any of the routes which ...
Hushe Valley, Various Ascents. Giuseppe Masdea, Maurizio Garota, Danilo Valsecchi, Corrado Valsecchi and I, all members of the Lecco Group of the Italian Alpine Club, arrived at Charakusa Base Camp July 19, after a very comfortable and easy approa...
Gautam Himal and Palchung Hamga Himal, Exploration, Previously Unreported. One goal of our 1999 journey to Dolpo was to reveal the topographical detail of the border range, now called the Gautam Himal, including research of all the passes of north...
Dorje Lhakpa Attempt. Our expedition consisted of M. Paolucci, D. Moran- dotti, F. Cella, L. Zarpellon, L. Lehner, Dr. M. Dell’Oca and me as leader. We approached from the south. We hoped to climb the ridge system used by the Germans for their des...
Ecuadorian ascents. Marco Cruz and the Frenchman Joseph Bergé made in October 1974 the first ascent of the north face of Quilindaña, the “Matterhorn of Ecuador” (4898 meters, 16,070 feet), the last 1000 feet being on a near vertical rock wall of n...
JOHN FRANCIS BRETT1893-1982John Brett, a member of both the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada, died in October 1982 in Montreux, Switzerland. His death was preceded by that of his wife Elizabeth in September of the same year. John...
Broad Peak, winter attempt. A Spanish team led by Juanito Oiarzabal attempted Broad Peak (8,048m) this winter. They came in January 2003 and left in middle of March. They climbed up to 6,500m and had to abandon the climb owing to strong winds that...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section has been active on the crags and peaks of the world, and in addition members have conducted the less glamorous day-to-day contacts with landowners and administrators that are so vital to the...
Further note on the French ascent of Taweche. This was an unauthorized ascent of a peak, not on the permitted list, by a French group led by Yannick Seigneur, who had gone to Khumbu to investigate the possibilities of high-altitude skiing from 600...
AAC, Oregon Section. A unique gathering of people interested in the many issues concerning mountaineering in Tibet occurred in Portland this year. American Alpine Club members Tom Bennett, Bob McGown, Jean Fitzgerald, Neale Creamer and Ian Wade, t...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY—CLIMBING UNROPED Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 9, 1992, at 0900, Andy Griffiths (36) was attempting to climb Lamb's Slide on the East face of Longs Peak. He slipped and slid 300 feet, su...
Bhagirathi III, Southwest Face, New Route and Repeat of Scottish Route. Our expedition reached Base Camp at Nandanban on August 2. We were Pavel Trefil, leader, Leoš Chwistek, Štefan Danko, Zdedek Michalec, Bohuslav Mrozek and I. After acclimatiza...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers’ Seattle climbing program, under the leadership of Ron Eng, has maintained its traditional focus on alpine climbing in the Pacific Northwest. The Basic and Intermediate Climbing courses, which compose the core of...