Chilean Patagonia, Overview. The weather in Chilean Patagonia was terrible from November to February. March was very good from the first to the 16th. Climbing activity in Paine National Park was down in general—perhaps 50% less than in the last th...
Kumbhakarna, North Face. Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Ger Friele, Edmond Öfner, Ferry van Wilgenburg, Rudolf de Koning, Dr. Ingo Doomenbal and me as leader. With 55 porters we set out from Hille on September 5. Base Camp was at ...
Milne Land, probable first ascents. Between May 8-16 David Cook and Simon Turner, guided by me, climbed seven peaks on Milne Land. We were taken to the island from Constable Point by Skidoo, across the sea ice of Scoresby Sund, but had to be helic...
FALL ON ROCK-DISLODGED ROCK, WEATHERColorado, Snowmass MountainThey’d waited a year to take another stab at summiting Snowmass Mountain after weather forced them to turn back last summer. On Saturday, two climbing buddies finally reached their goa...
North Palisade, “Es lässt sich nicht lesen."” The day after climbing the previous two routes, Cameron Bums and I attempted to climb the west-face route on this peak. Unfortunately, we got lost trying to follow the description in the guidebook. We ...
TABLE I Reported Mountaineering AccidentsYearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.InjuredUSA-CAN.KilledUSA-CAN.19511421103195229321713195324271412195432423181955343926619564671511319574553281819583238221119...
STRANDED–RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILUREColorado, Capitol PeakIn June, Kevin Smith (32) was rappelling with a partner on Capitol Peak, a 14,000 foot peak with a Grade IV 5.9 North Face route and a classic “knife- edged” hiking route about 14 miles west of A...
Cerro Taruj Umaña, East Face and Other Climbs, Araca Group, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Our Swiss expedition was composed of Hanspeter Bricher, Gian-Andri Tannò and me. We placed Base Camp in the eastern fork of the Taruj Umana valley at the same spot...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. A party of six was attempting the West Buttress route and were at the 17,200 foot level on the night of 16 June. Gary Cole (32), vomited several times that night. He with one companion was left in a snow cave, while the other...
LOSS OF CONTROL–RAPPEL, NO BELAY, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCE North Carolina, Table RockOn August 16,1986, a father and two sons were top-roping and rappelling at a popular training area. Their equipment was a few carabiners and some Goldline rope. ...
Gasherbrum I, II and K2. We established Base Camp at the foot of the Gasherbrums on June 1. The weather was very unstable and there was much snow. We placed an Advance camp at 5900 meters between Gasherbrum I and II. On June 15 Benoît Chamoux and ...
Mt. Bryce. On July 23, 1955, Richard Irvin and Fred Ayres made the third ascent of the main peak of Mt. Bryce. Our route was via the south glacier and southeast face, the same as that used in 1937 by the second- ascent party consisting of Lillian ...
Middle Teton, Northeast Face. A new route on this face, involving some 500 feet of roped climbing, was made by Roger Briggs and Art Higbee on July 8. Three hundred feet of snow and easy rock from the Lower Saddle took them to a large ledge about 7...
Arches National Park. Cameron Burns and Ann Robertson climbed a tower by its west face in the Great Wall region of the park. Left Nut (5.9, A2) is located just left of the Phallus, a tower whose name appears on park maps! These towers are unique c...
Peak 11,350+ (Matternaught Peak). This small peak, which is prominent from Lake Taminah in Avalanche Canyon but which is only a shoulder southeast of the South Teton, was first climbed on July 25 by George Hurley and Jean Tuomi by the east ridge. ...
Drifika, Second Ascent. It was reported that in July, Angelo Rusconi, Luciano Gimpa, Simone Rossetti, and Gino Hora (Italy) made the second recorded ascent of Drifika (6447m) via its north ridge. Hora stopped ca. 100 meters below the summit; the o...
Nepal, Bureaucratic Developments. The Nepal Mountaineering Association has recommended that 15 new peaks be opened for climbing. Approval has been obtained from several ministries, but the Home Affairs Office is still holding the matter under cons...
Cho Oyu Attempt, Tragedy and Assault. An expedition of seven Koreans apparently had permission for the southwest ridge of Cho Oyu but turned instead to the southeast face. They reached 7800 meters before abandoning their effort. Ang Lhakpa (also k...
Spanish Climbs in 1974. In August 1974 a Spanish expedition from Granada not only climbed Chimborazo, Cotopaxi and Illiniza Norte by the normal routes, but also ascended the Italian route on Obispo (17,451 feet) and Illiniza Sur (17,277 feet) by a...
FRANK E. GAEBELEIN1899-1983Frank Gaebelein, a long time member of both the American and Canadian Alpine Clubs, died in January 1983 ending a distinguished career in education. After graduating from New York University he received has master’s degr...