Arnaud and I rarely have the opportunity to climb together. Eight hundred kilometers separate us; Arnaud in his Briançonnais, me in my Pyrenees. We cross paths at his place during the winter, where we make time for an explosive ice cocktail. He al...
P 6725, Pangong Range, Ladakh, 1987. A 20-man team of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by Itam Singh put three members on top of P 6725 (22,064 feet) in early September, 1987. This is said to be the highest peak in the range.Himalayan Club Newsl...
1951-20052006Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCANADAAlberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arct...
Cerro Almirante Nieto, various attempts; various other ascents. Grega Lacen and I, Slovenes, came to the park on December 1. The next day’s weather was great, so we went up to try the beautiful, unclimbed northwest pillar of Almirante. It was hard...
Purcell Range, Farnham Group. During August 1954 a party of five, four of us members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, climbed in the Farnham Group of the Purcell Range. The party was composed of Arthur Read, Robert West, his wife Peggy, Peter L...
Poincenot, southwest face, Rise of the Machines. Over the years Jens Holsten, Mikey Schaefer, and I spent hours studying a high-resolution photo, picking out a line on this aesthetic face. It looked like high-quality, straight-in cracks to where i...
The Lloyd George MountainsJ. Monroe ThoringtonBECAUSE of improved transportation facilities by airplane, the unexplored region of British Columbia between the Finlay, Peace and Fort Nelson (Liard) Rivers is of increasing interest to mountaineers.T...
Bindu Gul Zorn II. We traveled by jeep through Chitral and reached Zum-gramgran in the Tirich valley on July 21. We pitched Base Camp on July 24 on the Lower Tirich Glacier below the Bindu Gul Zom peaks. A long ridge descends eastward from Tirich ...
Alaska—Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes: (The U.S.G.S. has requested that the person’s name involved in the following accident be omitted out of consideration for the family.) W. J. (24) left the U.S.G.S. Camp on the south bank of Knife Creek just no...
FALL ON ROCK - FAILURE TO BELAY THUMBCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Oct 12, Matt Krueger (41) and I, John Robinson (64), started climbing up to Sickle Ledge from the base of El Cap, intending to fix our lines for a head start on the Nos...
Five Miles High: The Story of an Attack on the Second Highest Mountain in the World, by Members of the First American Karakoram Expedition. Edited by Robert H. Bates. 8 vo.; xii +381, with 38 illustrations from photos, 1 chart and 2 maps. New York...
RAPPEL ERROR—NO RACKUP/RELAY, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHER British Columbia, Park Range, Watchtower PeakThe Watchtower (2543 meters) is a grade 5.7 rock climb in Yoho National Park. On August 14, 1993, N.W. and J.O. set out from the Lake O’Hara road at 1...
Nepal Himalaya, expedition endorsements cut, Mt. Everest fees lowered, garbage deposits changed. For several years the American Alpine Club lobbied to remove the endorsement letter required for expeditions wanting to climb in Nepal. This included ...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On September 5, Mr. Sam Raether (24) was rescued from east wall of Nisqually Glacier moraine after being stranded for six hours. He was removed by National Park Service rescue team at 11:30 p.m. No injuries. I...
Mount Hunter, Southeast Ridge, Hard Saying Not Knowing. In early May, Judd Stewart and myself (Wesley Bunch) were flown into a seldom-visited arm of the Tokositna Glacier by pilot Doug Geeting. We arrived with the intention of attempting a new rou...
Panch Chuli II (6,904m), ascents and tragedies. In one of the worst avalanche tragedies in the history of Himalayan mountaineering nine members of an Indo-Tibet Border Police team to Panch Chuli II (the highest of the Panch Chuli Group at 6,904m) ...
An Italian expedition to the Andes has been organized by the Club Alpino Academico Italiano under the leadership of Count Aldo Bonacossa. We understand that the plans call for an ascent of Aconcagua and Cerro del Plomo. The party hope to make a co...
Chogolisa Glacier: Pk. 5,500m, north face; Raven's Peak, south face; Capucin, south face; Pk. 6,000m, northwest face. Charakusa Glacier: Iqbal’s Wall, attempt. As in 2004, when we climbed above the Chogolisa Glacier, north of the Charakusa, comple...
Alaskan Kayak MountaineeringWalter R GovewITH PRESENT TECHNOLOGY and techniques and given sufficient time and willingness to accept risks, it is now possible to climb any serious mountaineering objective. And with the successful ascent of virtuall...
ICE COLUMN COLLAPSE - FALL ON ICE, LATE SEASONWyoming, Yellowstone National Park, Grand Canyon of the YellowstoneOn May 25, Mark Ehrich (28) and Michael Kellch (29) died when a frozen waterfall called Silver Cord Cascade collapsed while they were ...