Menthosa. Menthosa (21,140 feet) in Chamba was scaled for the first time on October 13 by a British Servicemen team led by Captain S. Bemrose. The summit pair was Royal Marine Lieutenant Stewart Rae and REME Captain Rory Cape.Soli S. Mehta and Jag...
University of Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. The new year arrived with the sound of scraping skis during the annual Hoofer trip to the Wind Rivers in Wyoming. Lack of snow hampered the first week’s activities, while storms during the second week p...
Hyperborea, West Face of Asgard’s North TowerNoel Craine, Alpine Climbing GroupOUR EXPEDITION WAS ORIGINALLY composed of Britons Simon Yates, Keith Jones, Paul Pritchard and me and American Steve Quinlan. We were on Baffin Island in Arctic Canada....
Bear Tooth, House of the Rising Sun to southwest ridge. In mid-April, Jared Vilhauer, Zach Shlosar, and I left our base camp and skied to our gear cache on the south fork of the Buckskin Glacier. We left our skis and headed for an untouched 3,200'...
FALL ON ROCK, DESCENDING UNROPED, OFF ROUTEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir DonaldAt 0500 on August 24,1985, a party of two (31 and 27) set out from the Illecillewaet Campground (1220 meters) to attempt a light, rapid ascent of Mt. S...
Pico Huamlla, Cordillera Yauyos. With the American Bill Douglas, I visited the Cordillera Yauyos, taking the Huancayo-Cañete road. At Santo Tomas we drove through a narrow limestone canyon with 1000-foot vertical or overhanging walls, often festoo...
ALISON JANE HARGREAVES 1962- 1995Alison Jane Hargreaves had shot to prominence as one of the world’s greatest mountaineers in just a few years, but hers was no casual encounter. Born in Derbyshire in 1962, she acquired a deep and abiding love of t...
FROSTBITE-INADEQUATE CLOTHING (NO OVERBOOTS) AND INADEQUATE CARE OF EXTREMITIESAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressJerry Hopfe flew onto Denali on May 2 as a part of the three-member “Steves” team. The group made steady progress arriving at 14,20...
Geschichte und Sozialordnung der Sherpa, by Michael Oppitz. Innsbruck-Munich, Universitätsverlag Wagner Ges. m.b.H., 1968. 170 pages, 21 photographs (one full page colored), 11 schedules and charts, 6 genealogies, 2 maps.History and Social Structu...
In April Alex Appelby, Ben Bizwell, Tom Francis, and I arrived in Haines to ski-traverse the Juneau Icefield, while making as many ascents and first descents as possible. Although all British, we were a diverse group, living in different parts of ...
Members are urged to send to the Secretary a record of their climbs, together with any new information relative to the regions visited.A number of our members attended the 1929 Annual Camp of the Alpine Club of Canada at Rogers Pass, B. C., from w...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 18 May Spencer Conley (34), was leading a pitch on the East route of Monday Morning Slab. He states that he was out 100 feet on the rope with two pitons placed for protection. The last pin was a lost arrow ho...
When the Steel Went Through, by P. Turner Bone. 8vo., 180 pp., 21 photographic illustrations. Toronto, 1947: The Macmillan Co., Price, $3.00.The author, who died while his book was in press, was one of the few survivors of those who did the origin...
Illampu Group, Cordillera Real. The members of the Imperial College Cordillera Real Expedition were Bruce W. Hooker, Nevelle P. Jordison, Paul J. McCartney, Stephen Ridgill, David P. Steel, Roger Scull, Richard W. Wroot, and I. Sad to say, Steel a...
The Big Book of Mountaineering, edited by Bruno Moravetz. Translated by Diana Stone Peters and Frederick G. Peters. Woodbury, N.Y.: Barron’s, 1981. 288 pages, 112 pages of full-color illustrations. Price $49.95.Measuring fourteen by eleven inches ...
The Mazamas. The year 1969 was the year that The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, took a nostalgic backward look to July 19, 1894, when two large parties climbed Mount Hood by the north-side Cooper Spur route and by the south side. Meeting at the summ...
Annapurna III Attempt. A seven-man British expedition led by Mal Duff had great difficulties with the terrain on the approach up the Seti Khola. Their cook died of high-altitude pulmonary edema on September 12 before they reached Base Camp. After ...
Huascarán Sur, Turbera, and Nevado Copa, Mostro Africano to southwest ridge. Upon returning to Huaraz in June, after climbing Siulá Chico, Oriol Baró and I decided to attempt something more. Having spent six days on our previous route, we wanted s...
A.A.C., Southern California Section. The Section held two official meetings during the year. Our main program has been the establishment of the Arkel Erb Memorial Library. Club members helped prepare and move the books to the Los Angeles County Li...
An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England. Rick Wilcox. International Mountain Equipment, Inc., North Conway, New Hampshire, 1982. 225 pages, 35 black and white photographs, 33 diagrams and photodiagrams, 4 maps. $15.00.New ice routes have be...