Northern Fairweather Range, Various First Ascents and Descents. On April 18, our group of seven climbers and skiers (Jim Earl, Tiffany Scrymgeour, Chris Erickson, Anne Sherwood, Brendan Cusick, Chris Trimble and Hjoerdis Rickert) were flown from Y...
East Face of Thor PeakRichard PownallFEW of the many mountaineers who frequent the Teton Range know or have heard of Thor Peak, a mountain rising to an elevation of 12,018 feet, located at the head of Leigh Canyon and partially hidden by the massi...
Northeast Face of Mount BabelBrian GreenwoodSOME YEARS ago a leading California climber stated that climbing in North America had not yet reached the same standards as in Europe. I am sure no one would express that opinion today – certainly not in...
Russell O. Huse 1908-2004Russell Huse’s roots are deeply embedded in the area of Ventura County, California, originally known as the Rancho El Conejo, part of which was named Rancho El Triunfo and later called the Russell Ranch. This 6,000-acre fa...
Mazama Centennial, 1994. (Editor’s Note: Because the Mazamas are celebrating their Centennial, we are placing this report here. The regular annual report also appears below.)At four P.M., July 19, 1994, exactly one century will have elapsed since ...
Fitz Roy. On February 21 Chilean Gino Cassasa and Austrian Walter Bertsch reached the summit of Fitz Roy. Following the American route with a variant in the upper part, they overcame the difficulties on February 20 and bivouacked on the easy summi...
To the Ends of the Earth: Adventures of an Expedition Photographer. Gordon Wiltsie. NewYork: W.W. Norton, 2006. Hardback. 224 pages. $35.00.Gordon Wiltsie’s To the Ends of the Earth is a merry carnival of destinations, a shiny ride that spins read...
Muztagh Ata and Unnamed Peak Ascents. The summer of 1994 found me in Kashgar, Xinjiang, on the way to West Tibet. My companion, Paula Quenomoen, and I decided to do a side trip into the Kunlun Mountains before heading to Mount Kailash. We establis...
Santa Rosa, Cordillera Raura. On August 19 Stuart Turner, Chuck Satterfield and I stood on the summit of Santa Rosa (18,758 feet) after a long climb via the hitherto unapproached east side and north ridge, having made what was probably the fourth ...
Illimani, Cordillera Real. Among several successful groups which reached the 21,201-foot summit of Illimani in 1970 were Italians from a large group sent out by the Uget section of the Club Alpino Italiano. From Camp III at 19,000 feet the guide L...
Fitz Roy and Aguja Guillaumet. On January 4 Chris Blatter, Jim Jennings and I arrived at the entrance of the Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, hoping to repeat the French route on Fitz Roy, climbed by Terray and Magnone in 1953. As far as we know,...
FALL ON ICE, FAILURE OF ICE SCREW, EXCEEDING ABILITIESVermont, Smuggler’s NotchOn February 9, 1981, Larry Dieringer (26) was climbing with a group from the StoweSchool. The accident occurred around 4:00 p.m. Dieringer climbed 15 feet on mixed vert...
Mt. Deborah and Mt. Hunter: First AscentsFRED BECKEYDuring our expedition this spring to the northwest face of Mt. McKinley, the subject of unclimbed major Alaskan peaks often arose, and since it seemed likely that Henry Meybohm and I would have t...
Nun. The Himalayan Association of Japan Expedition was composed of Masaki Susuki, Tomihiko Iimura, Hideki Azuma, Masayuki Teramoto, Tsutomu Ogawa, Tadao Ando, Taichiro Takahashi, Hiroshi Yashima and me as leader. We arrived at Tongol, the last vil...
RODNEY L. GLISAN1869-1934To old friends of Rodney L. Glisan, the news of his death brought inexpressible sadness. No longer a youth, his presence always suggested youth and optimism. On the trail or at the campfire he was always the cheery, tirele...
Centennial Range Peaks Climbed by Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition. The climb of Mount Vancouver is covered in a separate article in this Journal. In the Centennial Range all the peak names are official, having been approved by the Permanent Com...
Three crowded Fourth of July flights brought Peter Brown, John Hauck, Dick Jablonowski, Dan Osborne, and me to the 8000-foot plateau of the east branch of the Yentna Glacier. Two days later we occupied a high camp nestled under a small ice cliff a...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. This season was not only another warm one, but also a record year for climbers. Attempts on Denali alone totaled a whopping 1,340 climbers, breaking the former record of 1,305.The year began with the tra...
Chief’s Head, Northeast Face. Jeff Lowe and I made a second route on the northeast face of Chief’s Head, “Risky Business.” (IV, 5.11 + ). It climbs just right of the center of the face for ten pitches. Four were of 5.10 to 5.11 range and the crux ...
HIGH WINDS AND POSSIBLE AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Harper GlacierOn the evening of July 3, a 16-member National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) expedition was hit by high wind or possibly debris from an avalanche at approximately 17,200 fee...