LOOSE ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Grand SentinelThe Grand Sentinel is a 100 meter quartzite pillar on the north slopes of Pinnacle Mountain, and Sentinel Pass which joins it to the southwest corner of Mount Temple. On August 11, 1990, two ACC ro...
UNITED STATESCLIMBING ALONE, UNROPED, INADEQUATE FOOD AND EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 21, Gerald Myers (41), a member of a private expedition of four, was reported as overdue on a solo summit attempt of Mount...
Time Out for Glacier CircleMarguerite SchnellbacherWITH only ten more clays at our disposal, Sterling Hendricks, Polly Prescott, John Southard and I decided to go to Glacier Circle in the Selkirks. Due to the isolation of this section we would hav...
Huascarán Norte Tragedy. An Italian expedition had hoped to repeat the Casarotto route on the north face of Huascarán Norte. On August 8, Battistino Bonali and Giandomenico Ducoli fell to their deaths apparently from a height of about 6000 meters ...
HENRY AUGUSTUS PERKINS 1873-1959Henry Augustus Perkins was a man who distinguished himself in many endeavors. In the American Alpine Club he became our member of longest standing. For 56 years the Club was fortunate to have him enrolled on its ros...
The North Ridge of Mt. OwenMerrill McLaneTHE N. ridge of Mt. Owen is a formidable looking ridge whether it is seen from the floor of Jackson Hole near the vicinity of the Square G Ranch or from Lake Solitude. Rising out of Cascade Canyon, a massiv...
From July 13–18 Alexander Maximenja from Minsk, Belarus, climbed a new route on Parandas. His route is situated to the left of the line put up by the Odessa climbers, who were operating on the wall at the same time and who he met on the descent. M...
Long, Difficult Free ClimbingMax JonesIN RECENT YEARS the free-climbing level in the United States has risen dramatically, and, as always, climbers are looking for new places to test their skills. The small cliffs have long been the home of the ex...
1951-20062007Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedGeographicalDistrictsCANADA*Alberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arctic82...
Cerro Catedral, South Face. An eight-man team of the Croatian Alpine Association, the oldest in Yugoslavia, celebrated the 100th anniversary of the association with a two-month expedition to the Andes of central Argentina. After climbing the norma...
Peak of the Bella Coola. The Coast Range of British Columbia holds many untouched groups of peaks. Among these are the snowy summits just south of the Bella Coola Valley. These mountains have been visited in previous years by a very few and most o...
Gordoghan Zom III, Buni Zom Mountain. Nikolas Kroupis and I first went to the Buni Zom range in July 2002 without any knowledge of the terrain and the geography of the peaks. Two years later (May-June) our goal remained the same, to climb Buni Zom...
Everest in the Pre-Monsoon Season. Everest overwhelmingly dominated Nepal’s climbing scene this spring. Half of the 30 expeditions that went to Nepal came to Everest 40 years after its first ascent. Of the 429 men and women who went climbing above...
OVERDUE – DID NOT RETURN, UNKNOWN CAUSE OF FALLOregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier HeadwallOn early Friday morning, December 11, Luke Gullberg, (26), Anthony Vietti, (24), and Katie Nolan (29) left Timberline for a climb of the Sandy Glacier Headwal...
Wyoming RockiesTeton RangeThe 1935 season in the Tetons was exceptional because of the number of ascents made and the original character of some of the climbs. One after another new routes were completed, including one on the Grand Teton, three on...
El Everest, Historia de una conquista. Conrad Blanch and Joan Massons. Ediciones Península, Barcelona. 1986. 236 pages, 174 color photographs.This lovely, large-format book reports on the Spanish Catalan expeditions to Mount Everest, an unsuccessf...
Twin Peak I. Previously unreported was a 2005 visit to the Kero-Lungma Glacier by a small British expedition comprising Bill Church, Pete Holden, and Colin Morton. During July and August they planned to explore the northeast branch and climb some ...
Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge, Thunderbird Variation Attempt. Simon Abrahams, Jim Hall, and Nick Lewis flew into Logan in two flights. On May 9, we skied around to below the east side of Logan via the Water Pass and dumped a cache of food for our...
Satopanth. A 7-member team of the Toyama Sansoh Alpine Club of Japan led by Shigeyoshi Kido climbed Santopanth by the north ridge. On August 16, Shigeo Yoneda, Hiroyuki Fujimura and Shigeyoshi Saeki reached the summit.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himava...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQAUTE PROTECTIONNevada, Red Rock Canyon NCA, Pine Creek CanyonOn March 12, around 1:00 p.m., there was a serious leader fall on the lower section of the third pitch (the long 5.8 corner) of the route Dark Shadows on the Mescalit...