Catherine Freer, Renny Jackson, Sandy Stewart and I arrived at Base Camp at Tsholo at 4665 meters on October 14. We spent the next few days acclimatizing by walking up to Everest Base Camp to visit friends. On October 24 Freer and I started up the...
La Esfinge, southeast face, The Furious Gods. On January 1, 2003 Jeff Beaulieu and Vincent Légaré, of Quebec, Canada, reached the summit of La Esfinge (The Sphinx) by a new route. The Furious Gods (La Colera de los Dioses) (800m, VII 5.10 A4) took...
P 6520, Lake Clark National Park, 1991. During a three-week stay in Lake Clark National Park, on August 7, 1991 I climbed P 6520 by the east ridge. The rock was very loose near the top. The peak lies about two miles east of the northeast comer of ...
On June 22 Oriol Baro and Jordi Corominas from Spain reached the summit of Chacraraju Este, having completed a direct finish to the original 1962 French Route (950m, ED1/2, Dubost-Gendre- Magnone-Soubis-Terray), the hardest route in the Blanca ...
Varaha Shikhar (Fang) Attempt. Six Koreans led by Kim Jong-Duk hoped to climb a new route, the east face, on Varaha Shikhar. The highest point reached was 5450 meters, where Choi Young-Dae, Kim Sung-Mo and Ang Kami Sherpa pitched Camp II on Septem...
Noshaq. A group of 53 Europeans, organized in Italy by Beppe Tenti with technical direction by Reinhold Messner, invaded the Qazi Deh valley and placed Base Camp at the foot of Noshaq. Climbing activities were concentrated on Kharposht-e-Yakhi (18...
Aconcagua, 2005-2006 season overview. From November 15, 2005, to March 15, 2006, the Parque Provincial Aconcagua had 7,285 visitors who trekked or climbed. This is 12.5% more than the preceding year. There are now 40 rangers (34 in the early seaso...
Kun Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of sixteen members, including four women, two guides and four high-altitude porters. After a difficult crossing of the flooding Suru River at Ringdom Gompa, we headed up the Shafat valley to Base...
Nanga Parbat Attempt and Tragedy. A seven-man Japanese expedition led by Motumu Omiya arrived in the Diamir valley in early October. After climbing Ganalo Peak West (6290 meters, 20,637 feet), they turned to Nanga Parbat on October 20. They establ...
The South African Andean Expedition started its climbing in the Fitz Roy area from December 1972 to February 1973. The main objective was the Fitz Roy Supercouloir. The weather during our stay was at least consistent: five good days in ten weeks! ...
Nanda Ghunti, 1989. Mike Lamont, Ian Inch, Bill Turner, Fiona Turner, Colin Roberts and I made the first British ascent of Nanda Ghunti (6309 meters, 20,700 feet). The first ascent was made by Swiss in 1947 by the same route we climbed. The walk-i...
Peaks above Pourquoi Pas Glacier, East Greenland. On June 23, Alan Jones, Graham Harkness, Andrew Howick, Sandra Gregson, John Starbuck, Paul Walker, Lucy Walker and I as leader were flown to the Pourqoi Pas Glacier, where we set up Base Camp at 6...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On August 4, Mr. Nicholas Peters (22) injured himself while glissading on the Nisqually Glacier. He suffered a puncture-type wound above the right ear from the spike of his ice axe. Bleeding was serious and he...
Mount McKinley, Northwest Face, New Route. On May 19, Juraj Hreus and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Denali. From the 14,200-foot camp we started climbing at 8 a.m. and climbed on the northwest face until 7 p.m., encountering 10 pi...
Lanin (12,390 ft., Lat. 39° 40’ S., Long. 71° 30’ W., on Argentine-Chilean boundary). The first ascent of this peak was effected on February 9th, 1933, by A. T. Howat and E. de la Motte. From a base camp at 3,600 ft. near the Tromen police station...
Everest Environmental Expedition. A full article on this expedition appears earlier in this volume.Everest Attempt. Our expedition had hoped to climb the Great Couloir, but due to the lack of snow and rockfall we decided on the west ridge. Our cli...
Mukut Parvat (7,242m). Lionel Albrieux’s eight-member French team approached this high mountain from Ghastoli, establishing base camp at 4,800m on the Pachhimi (West) Kamet Glacier. After putting an advanced base at 5,300m, they climbed alpine-sty...
FALL INTO CREVASSE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Ian Wade (30), Jen Jern (28), Mathew Wells (29), Ray Smutek (39), Robert Redmayne (32) and James Roscoe (25) were ascending the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier planning to climb the Cassin Ridge. Approxim...
Everest, summer and autumn attempts with ski and snowboard. In stark contrast to the spring season, when 69 teams swarmed on the north and south sides of Everest, there was only one expedition on the entire mountain in the summer and just one othe...
P 5550 and Badshani, above Pasu Glacier. Jonathan Preston and I arrived at the Pasu Glacier on August 9, hoping for a month’s climbing on worthwhile alpine objectives below 6000 meters to make full use of Pakistan’s trekking regulations. One week ...