Puscanturpa Group, Cordillera Huayhuash. A Swiss expedition, led by Christian Hauser and composed of Edwin Schelling, Julius Hensler, Heinz Gebauer, and Walter Schnyder, set up Base Camp on Juraukocha (lake). They made the first ascents of the fol...
Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. Our expedition sought to make an alpine-style winter ascent of Ama Dablam. We were Kurt Krueger, Steve Risse, Steve Jorgenson, Dan Murphy and me with Mark Knaebe as Base Camp manager. After troubles recruiting enough po...
Mt. Majestic, Cracking the Emerald. In November Ryan Frost and I climbed Cracking the Emerald (IV/V 5.10 C1), a steep new six-pitch route on the southwest face of Mt. Majestic, in the Emerald Pools area. We ascended a striking corner near th...
Buni II and Gordoghan Zom. The Munich section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) sent Horst Schürer, leader, Rudi Berger, Alfred Koch, and Ernst Lainer to the Buni Zom group. All four climbed Buni II (20,079 feet) on July 25. Koch and Lainer climbed ...
Arrowhead, 1983. Steve Drake and I climbed the north face of Arrowhead on August 2,1983 probably not a new route but about which we find no previous record. We started 20 feet left of an obvious “X” marked by white intrusions. Three short, easy fi...
Mulkilla. Mulkilla (21,380 feet) was climbed on July 1 by all 17 members of the team from the National Defense Academy, Poona, led by Flight Lieutenant K. P. Venugopal. They included four officers and 13 cadets. The later were all under 19 years o...
Peaks 10,478', 9,900', and 10,088'. From May 8 to 17, James Dietzmann, Paul Templeton, and I did three possible first ascents of 10,000' peaks in the Wrangells. We had bad weather for most of the trip and were lucky to get any climbs in at all bet...
Mount Shasta. In the course of a study of the glaciers on the north side of the mountain in September, a party led by Norman Clyde and composed of Oliver Kehrlein, Wm. Horsfall, C. S. French, Charles Reid, Thom. Hunt, Howard Sills, and Kirkwood Bo...
Pisco Este, East Ridge, 1985. Italian brothers, Luca and Michele Dalla Palma, on June 12, 1985 completed a new route, the east ridge, on Pisco Este. In one day they climbed some 2500 vertical feet from the east col with ice up to 85° and rock of U...
Raid Peak, South Buttress and Face North of “Ambush Peak”. On July 16 and 17, John Bouchard and I climbed the 2000-foot south buttress of Raid Peak (12,532 feet). The climb starts 100 feet from the toe of the buttress. Three pitches led up an obvi...
El Toro, East Face. The east face of El Toro was climbed by Swiss, who reached the summit on June 20. They fixed some rope on this 3500-foot face. The climbers were Lucien Abbet, Patrick Delale, Jean-Pierre Frossard, Pierre- Antoine Hiroz and Stép...
Lupghar Sar. A Japanese expedition led by Kazuo Ito made the third ascent of this 23,610-foot (7196-meter) peak, climbing the southwest ridge. After approaching from Nagar to the Gharesa Glacier, most of the porters refused to go further and the c...
From August 4-12, 1996, Alexander Ruchkin and Alexander Odintsov established The Direct North Face (Russian Grade 6B, 5.11 A3+) on the north face of Ak-Su North (5217m). Practically nobody believed an ascent up the center of the wall was possible....
Cara Cruz, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Jona and Elizabeth Osauskas climbed Cara Cruz or Sarkantay Chico (17,123 feet) in June. (On the IGM Hoja Anta the names of Salcantay and Sarkantay have been reversed. P 6271 should be Salcantay.)John Ricker
Aconcagua Southwest Ridge. Milan Romih and I climbed in Argentina around the beginning of 1988. On December 31, 1987, I made a new route on the south face of Vallecitos (5340 meters, 17,520 feet), while Romih climbed the normal route. This lies in...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn April 15, 1985, about 1215, David Boles (30) took a five meter lead climbing fall while attempting the first pitch of a technical climb on the South Face of Sundance in an...
Nevado Sullcón, north face; Nevado Vicuñita Sur, southeast face, southwest face. Unusually bad weather and deep snow were a constant handicap during the 2001 climbing season in central Peru. In May J.P Perret and I attempted Pariacacca Norte (5701...
Mount Wake, Northeast Buttress, Ruth Gorge. Between May 11 and 15, Bruce Kay and I climbed a new route on Mount Wake. We ascended nearly 5000 vertical feet of snow and ice up to 70°, although later in the season much rock may be exposed on the low...
California, Yosemite National Park—Goodrich Pinnacle. On 20 June Ernest Milburn (18) and John Gibbins (20) had completed ascent of Goodrich Pinnacle (Glacier Point Apron) and were rappelling down route. One inch tubular nylon web rappel anchor sli...
Over five days in late November, Anna Pfaff and I traversed the six peaks of the Laguna Grande de la Sierra, on the west side of the Cocuy mountains. Starting from a base camp at the edge of Laguna Grande, eight miles from the last farm on the roa...