W. Virginia, Quarry near Ridgley—On 13 October, Donald R. Anderson (20) fell about 35 feet when his rappel rope broke while rappelling in a quarry near Ridgley, W. Va. There were three others in the party. The purpose was to practice rappelling pr...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinley, South ButtressThe “South Buttress 95” expedition members included leader Tom Fitzsimmons (45), Jim Fitzsimmons (38), Richard Rodgers (40), and David Hoffman (49). Their intended route was the 1954 ascent of the Sou...
KATE GARDINER1886-1974Kate Gardiner passed away in her sleep at her home in Hastings, New Zealand on January 28, 1974. She was a member of the American Alpine Club from 1932 until 1971, when with failing eyesight and little strength, she asked to ...
Between September 10 and 22, Doychin Boyanov, Mihail Mihaylov, and I explored the Khane Valley to investigate possibilities for big wall routes and virgin summits. It lies parallel to and immediately south of the Nangma Valley. There is almost n...
El Capitan, Free Rider. On September 21, Peter Janschek and I finished a free ascent of Free Rider. We swapped every lead. The leader redpointed every pitch. We did not pre-place any gear. The second also climbed every pitch free: I redpointed eve...
Guy Edwards 1972-2003The northwest face of the Devil’s Thumb, near Petersburg, Alaska, remains what is likely the most impressive unclimbed face in the Americas. It has been attempted by many times by people such as Alex Lowe, Jack Roberts, Dieter...
PETER RITTENHOUSE KELLOGG1966-1992Peter Rittenhouse Kellogg was killed on June 18, 1992 after completing the major difficulties of the Pink Panther route on Mount Foraker. He and two companions were struck by an avalanche, which they had no way to...
From mid-October to mid- November we were back in the Minya Konka Range for another attempt on Edgar by the unclimbed west face. Alexander Novikov, Dmitry Paramonov, Denis Shushko, and I spent two weeks exploring a way onto the glacier plate...
Editor’s Note: The name “Little Switzerland” was coined by Don Sheldon, who would often fly climbers through the area, wetting their appetite. Margaret Young and James Richardson, while climbing near the “big bend” of the Kahiltna in 1964, made th...
Yuzhu. Qinghai. Our expedition was composed of Yoshihide Higami, Kazuo Yamagishi, Kiyo Yamagishi, Anji Moriyama, Hideo Tobe and me as leader. Our average age was 48 years. On July 28, we arrived from Golmud at Base Camp at 5060 meters on the banks...
FALL ON ROCK, LUNGINGNew York, ShawangunksOn September 9, a male clirrtber (23) was bouldering on Double Clutch. He fell while trying to lunge for a hold and broke his ankle. Earlier in the year, this same climber fell to the ground while setting ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HATColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The BookOn February 6 at 1600, Kevin Hare (19) was leading the 5.9 traverse pitch near the top of J Crack (III, 5.9) on The Book formation. One of Hare’s feet ...
Various activity. In late May I completed my long-term project of linking The Free Nose (V+ 5.12) and Tague Yer Time (V+ 5.12), all free, in a day, leading every pitch. I began with The Free Nose and finished with Tague Yer Time, completing the li...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Mount Yamnuska, BelfryOn May 23, a climber fell 15 meters and broke both legs while attempting Belfry on Mount Yamnuska. He was with his climbing partner when a ledge broke beneath him and he fell. N.B. called for help and wai...
Chamar Attempt and Tragedy, Sringi Himal. A joint expedition of seven Japanese and three Nepalese led by Yoshiharu Miyashiro attempted the east or northeast ridge of Chamar (7177 meters, 23,580 feet), the route successfully climbed by New Zealande...
Manaslu. A 10-member Austrian expedition led by Arthur Haid climbed Manaslu by the normal northeast-face route. On October 7, from Camp IV Johann Etschmayer, Walter Hauser and Sonam Lhakpa Sherpa reached the summit.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Clu...
Kiukiurtliu, West Face, New Route. On the right side of Kiukiurtliu's west face, a Saint Petersburg team led by Andrey Andreev and comprising Igor Potankin, Kirsanov Dmitry, and Krivitskiy Alexey established a new route (Russian grade 6B, approxim...
Mount Sanford, Wrangell Range. On August 8 Randy Hargesheimer, Rich Swenson, Jean Borrett and I crossed the Copper River by raft and began the hike to Mount Sanford (16,237 feet). Our route followed Boulder Creek and Sheep Glacier to a point on th...
FALL ON ROCK, WASPS New York, ShawangunksOn July 27, 1986, a man (21) fell ten meters from Ursula (5.5) in wet conditions while being attacked by wasps. He suffered a compound fracture of one ankle, lacerations, and a possible head injury. (Source...
Changtse, Illegal Ascent to Northeast Summit. Early in the Everest expedition I suffered an attack of high-altitude sickness and returned to Base Camp. Despite a rapid recovery, our doctor recommended that I not go high again. Having disregarded t...