Allinccapac, Cordillera Carabaya. As a result of glowing reports of the climbing potential brought back by the British Museum Expedition to the Cordillera Carabaya in 1959 (A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, pp. 145-146.), we also decided to visit this area of s...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, EXPOSURE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Longs PeakOn January 14 at 0900, Mark Swinnerton (34) and Danny Pyatt (34) passed by rangers Kurt Oliver and Jim Detterline at the Chasm Meadows Cabin below the East F...
South Ridge of Ama DablamSue GillerWHEN WOMEN are on a mountain, it always snows.” This was not the weather forecast we had hoped to hear. With Camp III still not reached, and with the afternoon weather becoming worse and worse with each passing d...
Everest, Korean Winter Attempts. Two Korean expeditions unsuccessfully attempted to climb Everest in the winter of 1991-2. Led by Kim Kwang-Jin, seventeen climbers tried to climb the south pillar, getting to 8700 meters on December 14. Four other ...
Labuche Kang Reconnaissance, 1986. From September 1 to October 5, 1986, a joint Chinese-Japanese expedition made a reconnaissance of Labuche Kang (7367 meters, 24,170 feet). The peak lies between Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma. The Chinese were Cheng T...
Kvaloya Island, Blamannen, Frost. From February 21-26, 2007 Anne Grete Nebell and I climbed a new route on the north face of Blamannen, near Tromso. The face is steep, with a big-wall feel, though it is no more than 400m high. We spent six days cl...
Activity in Yosemite Valley. The most brilliant effort of 1995 was Alex Huber's second all-free ascent of the Salathé Wall. Accompanied by Austrian Heinz Zak, Huber redpointed every pitch without preplaced gear, which must surely rank with Lynn Hi...
Aconcagua, South Face Direct. The South Tirolean Expedition had hoped to climb the south buttress of the south peak of Aconcagua. After they arrived at their 13,775-foot Base Camp on January 6, they reconnoitered this route until the 10th but foun...
FALL INTO CREVASSEYukon Territory, St. Elias MountainsOn June 13, 1992, a group of five climbers and two guides were ascending an unnamed 3600 meter mountain east of McArthur Peak. At 0500 at the 2700 meter level, a series of large crevasses were ...
Foraker, Pink Panther RouteDaniel Vachon, Féderation Québecois de la MontagnewHILE RETURNING from a short trip to the Shawangunks, Julien Dery made the mistake of pronouncing the prophetic remark, “Well, I think I’m about due for something like Pe...
Exploration of Unclimbed Peaks in Tibet, and Mt. Zhemazhenyon, First Ascent. From summer to autumn of the last year of the 20th century, we explored unclimbed peaks in an unknown area of Tibet.In my first plan, our target was Mt. Ruoni (6610m), th...
On the evening of June 28, a guided group at high camp radioed NPS rangers at the 14,200-foot camp to report that a solo climber had been on the upper mountain for more than 24 hours and had not yet returned to his tent at high camp. NPS rangers...
Overview of foreign expeditions. There was a marginal increase in the number of foreign expeditions to the Indian Himalaya—40 teams compared to 35 teams that climbed last year. The Ladakh area received 14 expeditions, mostly to the Nun-Kun massif ...
Central Tower of PaineIan Clough and Don Whillans, Alpine Climbing GroupPreparations — Ian CloughAT 7:30 p.m. on January 16, 1963, Don Whillans and Chris Bonington became the first ever to reach the summit of one of the world’s most inaccessible p...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1987. Nearly 1260 members participated in one of the many instructional courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions. The courses and mountain camps were again offered f...
FALL WHILE DESCENDING, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EXPERIENCE, ETC.West Virginia, Judy Gap RocksOn February 28, 1992, David Dugan (42), Dean Beal (36), Belinda Smith, and her son (10) set out to attempt climbs on some obvious rock pinnacles on the north...
The Dutch RouteThe northeastern, sunnier side of Thalay Sagar yields its first complete route.Mike van BerkelThe northeast face of Thalay Sagar had been on our minds since our 2001 trip to the Garhwal. We had climbed the south side of Bhrigupanth ...
Rocks around the World. Stefan Glowacz and Uli Wiesmeier. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1988. 144 pages. $24.95.There’s a commercial recipe behind Rocks Around the World: find a reigning rock-climbing star, send him with a personal photographe...
The Field Book of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing, by Tom Lyman and Bill Riviere. New York: Winchester Press, 1975. 208 pages, with photos and illustrations. Price: $8.95.Tom Lyman, an active experienced mountaineer, collaborated with outdoor ...
Northern Patagonian Icefield Traverse and Various Ascents. Between January 4 and January 27 our expedition, composed of seven members, visited the Northern Patagonian Icefield. We were Claudio Seeback, Norbert Seeback, Christian Buracchio, Christi...